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  1. #11
    I don't. Like I said I inherited this printer along with the filaments. I will say I've had similar issues where a corner will lift off the bed with both ABS and HIPS.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    did you use gluestick ?

    If it didn't stick to gluestick then you're calibration is off and needs to be tighter and use more glue.
    I generally start with 3-4 comprehensive layers on a clean bed.

    Bear in mind that you HAVE to calibrate wit the printer bed and nozzle pre-heated to the same settings you're going to print with. Otherwise you have no chance as everything changes when it heats up.

  3. #13
    I am finding that if I move the object to the left side of the bed to be printed it sticks much better. Perhaps when the new bed arrives it will be better. I guess I failed to mention that the bed was broken by a ham-fisted electrician who couldn't wait to yank a newly printed object off the bed.

  4. #14
    Not sure about abs, but the best thing you can get or the best thing ever worked for me is blue scotch tape. Amazing stuff and if thats not good enough. Brushing some 70% iso over it will make your prints stick like lava


  5. #15
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PB2 View Post
    I am finding that if I move the object to the left side of the bed to be printed it sticks much better. Perhaps when the new bed arrives it will be better. I guess I failed to mention that the bed was broken by a ham-fisted electrician who couldn't wait to yank a newly printed object off the bed.
    ah then it's simply down to calibration issues. Most things tend to be.

  6. #16
    A lot of great potential solutions in here. Another thing you can try is Wolfbite...the original formula works specially for ABS. The newer "Wolfbite Nano" is formulated for PLA, but a number of our techs have started using it for ABS and other types of materials and are having a lot of success with it.
    Last edited by Jazmin3D; 06-22-2016 at 04:48 PM.

  7. #17
    Hello, I would recommend purchasing from wolfbite from airwolf. It is a special formula for plastics to stick directly to the bed.

    http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-p...s-from-warping

    I have been using this stuff for a little bit and it beats the hairspay/glue stick/kapton tape methods by a long shot.

    When the bed warms up, this activates the "stickiness" of the solution and when the bed cools down, this deactivates it. Too much though will cause the part to stay stuck even on a cool down. The solution is water soluble. Hearing a cracking noise is normal. This is the part the is being released from the bed.

  8. #18
    Technician STRYKR's Avatar
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    I use GeckoTek on my Craftbot and haven't looked back. It works flawlessly every time.

    http://www.geckotek3d.com/

  9. #19
    Final follow-up on this issue. I received the replacement bed. Once I got it all leveled everything seems to be working fine and no more issues with items not sticking.

    Thanks for all who responded and made suggestions.

  10. #20
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Getting the correct bed height is critical.

    I just stuck a glass plate on my printer, and couldn't get a damn thing to stick. A 50/50 solution of wood glue and water, thinned, spread, and dried out results in thus far everything sticking even through multiple prints, small and large with PLA. Have not tried the ABS yet. I see issues in my future.

    Previously I had been lightly wiping the oem sheet on the bed with a small amount of acetone on a rag, and while it solved my issues with things not sticking, the result was that everything stuck to it like it was superglued on. The acetone was slowly removing the texture of the sheet.

    For ABS the sheet still works great though, since it has a hard time sticking as it is.


    I guess my point here is to watch the print surface. After a while it needs to be replaced if you are using the sheets, or abusing the surface like I did.

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