ABS Not Sticking to Bed

[Firepower]

I got some Kapton Tape and the ABS temperature is 245 degrees and 90 degrees on my Cocoon Printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__85007__Kapton_Heat_Resistant_Tape_Roll_For_3D_Pr inter_Hot_Plates_230mm_x_33m_.html

I just printed the following orange skirt for the quadcopter but only got 2.7mm/.11inch and the ABS curled up at the ends and came unstuck.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1223867

I have printed it in PLA and it worked great.

Anyone know what I am doing wrong?

[Geoff]

I got some Kapton Tape and the ABS temperature is 245 degrees and 90 degrees on my Cocoon Printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mm_x_33m_.html

I just printed the following orange skirt for the quadcopter but only got 2.7mm/.11inch and the ABS curled up at the ends and came unstuck.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1223867

I have printed it in PLA and it worked great.

Anyone know what I am doing wrong?

Change your temp to 230c and 110c for the hotbed. You're way too hot on the nozzle and not hot enough on the bed.

Also make sure you are levelled nice and close.

[Firepower]

Thanks much appreciated for the information.

I have just done that but will not be able to test it until tomorrow afternoon. I better not let it run over night the first time but it should be good.

I'll let you know how it goes.

[3dex ltd]

Yep hotter bed sounds a good idea. 110 is perfect for ABS.

Nozzle temp wise that might take some experimenting because some ABS prints better at 220 whilst others print better at 250

[Firepower]

Good stuff. At least I have some changes/improvements to work with now.

I'll check it out lates today. Have to go flying the quadcopters now.

[Firepower]

I have been trying for hours to get a good item but there are still a few things I need to work out. I have those temperatures set now.

With the correct temperatures the problem seemed to be there is not enough ABS coming out. So I have increased the Flow to 110% and I'll see how it goes.
I have now worked out I can change the speed and flow while it is going.

I started it AGAIN but looks like I need to print something simpler for a start. I have started it again for about the 20th time today and looking good so far this time.

But in the mean time I have a problem with the PLA. All is good except for items that are pointed on the top. The top is all melted. I can not see what the standard setting is with the PLA as the printer is printing. What would be an example of good settings for the PLA?

Also how many time can the Kapton tape be used.

Thanks


EDIT: I give up. (until tomorrow) What a difference a day makes and one is printing great. (at the moment)



HELP HELP HELP

Now that I had it working GREAT and printed an eight of an inch of the ABS and the ABS stopped coming out. So it was printing in the air but no ABS coming out.

I tried to restart it at the correct level but could not. Guess I'll pull it apart and clean out the nozzle.

[ServiceXp]

1) The easiest way to deal with the "point melt" is to add part cooling.
2) When using different filaments (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc.) you need to make sure you purge the hot end at slightly higher temps then the highest filament temperature. You want all the old filament out if possible.
2b) The drive gear on the extruder motor may be clogged up with filament, not allowing it to grab the filament. It's a common problem when first starting out and having the bed slightly to close to the nozzle (some cheap filament can also cause this).

[iDig3Dprinting]

You should check to see if the hot end is blocked. If so clean out with acetone. It might be that dropping the temp to 220 is too low for your abs, 240 is about right generally although it is make/brand specific. Also, if it's cheap ABS then you will be more likely to get blockages due to dirty filament.

For warp prevention you can try a number of things. setting a generous Brim is always helpful, especially on parts that are large. Also playing with different types of adhesive. We would not expect ABS printed straight on to Kapton tape to work very well so you should try adding a layer of dilute PVA or Glue Stick and some have good results with hairspray. Alternatively, the other thing is to get some Acetone and make some ABS juice and paint that on your printbed.

ABSSlurryequation_annotated.jpg.jpg

If you think ABS is a problem wait until you try Nylon or Polycarbonate.

Other solutions are to try different print bed materials.

But as @Geoff says make sure your bed is level and that you have a good nozzle height, close to your bed.

[Firepower]

Thanks ServiceXP and iDig3Dprinting. That gives me more to work with.

I'll get back to it tonight.

[curious aardvark]

With pla cooling on the print area is essential and will improve all aspects of the print.

For getting abs to stick, I never had any luck with kapton.

Blue painters tape and a raft are the only things that worked for me.

Best advice would be to simply not use abs and use the myriad of other filaments that don't warp, don't stink, and stick really well to pva glue stick.