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  1. #121
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305
    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkASecondTime View Post
    So the Z coupler tubing on one side has gone bad.



    I have a couple of these couplers being shipped my way. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331160051416

    I've seen mixed reviews on them, but I figured its worth a shot to test them. Does anyone know what diameter tubing I would need if I want to go back to that? 3/16 inch?
    I have the 12" Pegasus and found the Couplers that you purchased run into the X Carriage. I cannot get the Z axis low enough to get the nozzle in a good position for the bed.

  2. #122
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    70
    Here is a link to the couplers I bought. I put them on right form the start as I could not stand the thought of using the tubing. I would not go back They have worked fine for a year. Let us know if the cheaper e-bay sourced parts work well.

    http://www.amazon.com/Atoplee-Steppe.../dp/B00M4VNAPA

  3. #123
    Big difference in quality of prints between slicers, holy cow! Simplify3d on the top, Slic3r (0.9.9) on the bottom. Cura gives me prints similar to Slic3r. Same nozzle/bed temps used in both slicers.





    Slic3r in front, Simplify3d in back.







    The parts printed with Slic3r can't even be assembled and look like absolute shit. I'm not made of money, but I've already got a grand tied up in this printer... I'm starting to think what's another $188 for that much of an improvement in quality?

  4. #124
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    70
    You might want to play with SLic3r's settings a bit before you make your decision. I started with Slic3r and used it for almost 10 months exclusively. I know it can do far better than what your pictures are indicating. I do use s3d now and it does do many things better than slic3r (in my opinion) but slic3r has its own merits. Surely slicing software is important and it can make a difference but, as I've painfully discovered recently, if something is not going right there is a good chance human error has at least some part in it . Even minute details/changes can have drastic effects on print quality. Before I switched to s3d I performed a similar experiment and also discovered that most of my prints looked better using s3d. But the difference was not quite so drastic as yours. Perhaps your slic3r settings are not as refined as s3d?

    I'm not trying to "preach" or guide your decision. I Just wanted to suggest that if something looks off in your prints, think about what the cause could be: over extrusion? Under extrusion? Temps not quite right? Sometimes changing one thing (a speed, a temp, e-steps) has unexpected results. This is an exciting and deceptively complicated hobby. Good luck :-).

  5. #125
    Ditto the below. I use Slic3r probably 95% of the time. A mix of Cura and Mattercontrol for the rest. Haven't tried Simplify3d mainly 'cause I'm a cheap SOB... ;-)

    I've printed the exact same nautilus gear model a few weeks ago and it came out pretty much spot on looking like your Simplify3d version.

    Also, I use a combination of versions of Slic3r depending on what I'm printing. I've done quite a bit of tweaking of settings and think I've got it to the point where I can print probably 80-90% of the time reliably. Since this is just hobby type printing, that's acceptable to me. YMMV

    -moyesusa

    Quote Originally Posted by hernejj View Post
    You might want to play with SLic3r's settings a bit before you make your decision. I started with Slic3r and used it for almost 10 months exclusively. I know it can do far better than what your pictures are indicating. I do use s3d now and it does do many things better than slic3r (in my opinion) but slic3r has its own merits. Surely slicing software is important and it can make a difference but, as I've painfully discovered recently, if something is not going right there is a good chance human error has at least some part in it . Even minute details/changes can have drastic effects on print quality. Before I switched to s3d I performed a similar experiment and also discovered that most of my prints looked better using s3d. But the difference was not quite so drastic as yours. Perhaps your slic3r settings are not as refined as s3d?

    I'm not trying to "preach" or guide your decision. I Just wanted to suggest that if something looks off in your prints, think about what the cause could be: over extrusion? Under extrusion? Temps not quite right? Sometimes changing one thing (a speed, a temp, e-steps) has unexpected results. This is an exciting and deceptively complicated hobby. Good luck :-).

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