10" Pegasus Build

**printbus** · 04-13-2016, 10:30 AM

Its interesting how the teeth marks disappear for some distance just prior to the notch cut into the filament. I would have expected to see the teeth marks continuing all the way to the notch. Otherwise, how was the filament being moved?

The hobbed bolt carving into the filament is something pretty much everybody runs into at some point, and people have identified all sorts of reasons for it happening on their machine. FWIW, Extrusion Problems is a post I've kept current with what people have found. Some of the info is specific to the Greg's Wade extruder on an i3v, but a lot of the info is generic. For me, it's typically been caused by filament with bulges in it that can't feed into the hot end or retraction settings being too aggressive on fine-detail objects.

**flatty_420** · 04-13-2016, 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by printbus

Its interesting how the teeth marks disappear for some distance just prior to the notch cut into the filament. I would have expected to see the teeth marks continuing all the way to the notch. Otherwise, how was the filament being moved?

The hobbed bolt carving into the filament is something pretty much everybody runs into at some point, and people have identified all sorts of reasons for it happening on their machine. FWIW, Extrusion Problems is a post I've kept current with what people have found. Some of the info is specific to the Greg's Wade extruder on an i3v, but a lot of the info is generic. For me, it's typically been caused by filament with bulges in it that can't feed into the hot end or retraction settings being too aggressive on fine-detail objects.

The teeth marks disappeared just before the notch because the teeth of the hobbed gear were completely packed with filament debris. This happened last time I had the ABS loaded into the printer as well. Strangely enough, that does not happen with the PLA I have and I've printed a lot more with PLA so far. Both spools of filament I'm using are eSun from Makerfarm. Thanks for the link, I'll check that out.

**Donziboy2** · 04-13-2016, 11:51 AM

I have had this happen and I think its caused by the spool binding just long enough for the gear to chew into the filament. I plan to work on my spool holder at some point, I replaced the wood part the spool sits on with a 3d printed part shortly after getting the printer running, that helped but it still binds up from time to time and jumps. I have noticed some of my spools are just a little bit wider then others this causes some spools to stick more often and require more force to start moving again.

Try to keep your spool angled so that it is center aligned with your extruder when the extruder is centered on the x axis.

**flatty_420** · 04-13-2016, 11:54 AM

Originally Posted by Donziboy2

I have had this happen and I think its caused by the spool binding just long enough for the gear to chew into the filament. I plan to work on my spool holder at some point, I replaced the wood part the spool sits on with a 3d printed part shortly after getting the printer running, that helped but it still binds up from time to time and jumps. I have noticed some of my spools are just a little bit wider then others this causes some spools to stick more often and require more force to start moving again.

Try to keep your spool angled so that it is center aligned with your extruder when the extruder is centered on the x axis.

I also printed out that part almost immediately to replace the terrible wood one. I also have a thin film of white grease on it to smooth out the spool rotation.

**printbus** · 04-13-2016, 12:54 PM

Yeah, a lot of people have said the MakerFarm spool holder has been at least a major contributor. I didn't mention having issues with it because I never used it, or didn't use it longer than I had to.

FYI - someone suggested one of the unused wood parts shown in post #93 is an alternate spool mount, but it still relies on the poor design of having the spool bounce along over a fixed wood edge. Not sure where you'd mount that on a Pegasus without losing a lot of print volume. Perhaps on the rear side somehow. FOLLOWUP COMMENT: That alternate spool mount is used on the 12-inch Pegasus that utilizes a box frame around the printer.

Moderator RobH2 used to jump in and discourage people from mounting a spool high up on a printer, arguing that any momentum it picks up as the printer frame vibrates or wobbles can exasperate print quality issues. Just sharing what others have said before.

**Donziboy2** · 04-13-2016, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by printbus

Moderator RobH2 used to jump in and discourage people from mounting a spool high up on a printer, arguing that any momentum it picks up as the printer frame vibrates or wobbles can exasperate print quality issues. Just sharing what others have said before.

Ya I kinda looked at that when I was having lots of z-wobble(was an over-tight thread in the tubing that was forcing the screw to one side). The metal frame does not appear to move much if any during spool bounce, I could attach my frame to my printer enclosure to see if it makes a difference. I doubt it would.

Much of the jumping occurs when the printer is moving from left to right, usually during a non-extruded position change when its moving really fast.

**flatty_420** · 04-13-2016, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by printbus

Yeah, a lot of people have said the MakerFarm spool holder has been at least a major contributor. I didn't mention having issues with it because I never used it, or didn't use it longer than I had to.

FYI - someone suggested one of the unused wood parts shown in post #93 is an alternate spool mount, but it still relies on the poor design of having the spool bounce along over a fixed wood edge. Not sure where you'd mount that on a Pegasus without loosing a lot of print volume. Perhaps on the rear side somehow.

Moderator RobH2 used to jump in and discourage people from mounting a spool high up on a printer, arguing that any momentum it picks up as the printer frame vibrates or wobbles can exasperate print quality issues. Just sharing what others have said before.

The problem with no extrusion/slipping hobbed gear on the filament has gotten worse real fast but only with ABS, PLA seems to work fine.

**Donziboy2** · 04-13-2016, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by flatty_420

The problem with no extrusion/slipping hobbed gear on the filament has gotten worse real fast but only with ABS, PLA seems to work fine.

Sounds like a clog or to low of a temperature. Make sure your temp sensor is not working its way out of the extruder.

edit...
Also check your extruder stepper current limiting. Also check your extrusion speed and acceleration, stepper can loose position if you go crazy fast or have to low current settings.

**beerdart** · 04-13-2016, 05:20 PM

My experience with eSun has been well it sucks. Ive tried it a few times both ABS and PETG the last one was recent with there PETG and we were slipping grinding and just plane printing like crap the only reason I went with e brand for the PETG is they had black and my normal supplier did not have black. So I sent them PP a msg on FB asking for black and bam they ran a batch of black. It arrived and printed the same Gcode model without a problem three rolls later it just prints.. Same for there ABS. I highly recommend http://pushplastic.com/

I would also try and up your extruder heat as you changed the air flow.

As for ABS sticking its always touch and go I have used slurry with great results but its a one time use deal. I switched to PEI sheet and its almost as good as slurry and darn near impossible to remove PETG prints I sometimes sprinkle baby powder to help release the prints. After discovering PETG I rarely print with ABS as its near impossible to control warp and lifting.

I also get in the habit of clearing the powder out of the hobbed bolt ever color change,,

**usarmyaircav** · 04-14-2016, 11:11 AM

I have had good luck with hatchbox ABS, I am going to try their PETG. with the makerfarm ABS I have, I have to make sure I have it loose or I suspect it hits a bulge and stops feeding. That was when I had the Hex, not sure if it is better with the E3d, haven't printed in that color in a while. I am having a love/hate relationship with the Esun PETG, either I can't get a good first layer (thinking I need to slow it down more) or when I printed a large print I had an issue with my Hex that I had to pry it off my PEI, that I am sort of wondering if I damaged it.