HICTOP PRUSA i3

[buxtor]

Wow! so after posting the link last night, I read through the comments on the firmware it referenced. Everyone was barking about it not compiling and such when I saw a tiny "I figured it out!" in the replies. Following it said they got the firmware to compile and it actually worked on the board, adjustments in play and all they did differently was use Arduino ver. 1.0.6.
Immediately d/l'd the version and firmware, which compiled easily, btw, and ran, not walked to my HICTOP, which took it as advertised. I even went in after that and corrected my stepper direction and viola, it compiled and uploaded!

NOW, there's a MINTEMP Err issue to be sussed out but I forsee that being a fairly straightforward fix, as I'm finding a lot of it about.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1743047/#comments down after all the bold caps entries on the 17th of Oct by bandonj.


Hoping this helps,

bux

[filamental]

Recently finished assembling one of these Hictop's and finally got it printing. So far it seems to work okay, however I'm having a real hard time leveling the heat bed.

I purchased the model with the auto-leveling z stop sensor and it seems to work, but I feel I still need to set a good base line on the bed itself.

I've searched the web for instruction on bed leveling these type of printers and each one guide seems slightly different due to the variations in the Prusa options out there.

Can someone recommend a bed leveling guide best for the hictop prusa?

Also, this is my 2nd printer. I've had a dremel for some time and its currently printing better than the prusa. However I was not able to get the dremel to work so good until I started using simplify 3d.

For some reason printing with the Cura software that came with the Prusa is yielding better results than Simplify 3D. I have nothing against Cura, but I prefer to use S3D since I'm already familiar with it.

I've tried copying all the settings from Cura to S3D, but I feel its still missing something.

[RapidPrintGuy]

( Sorry for any odd formatting, my paragraph formatting disappeared during preview,.. just a rookie poster.)I have recently purchased secondhand, a Hictop i3. (2months ago) I believe it "might" be a Hictop 3DP-11 or a Hictop 3DP-08 or it might be a Hictop 3DP-11-ATL as was mentioned in a link posted previously in this thread but I am just not confident,. nor am I sure it even makes a difference when choosing models in Prusa-type slicer options & firmware choices. Also just not sure when it was manufactured? I apologize in advance to asking so many questions in one thread. Sorry. After googling my butt off & emailing back and forth with Hictop asking for help to help confirm the model number, I did get a suggestion on what firmware to use,.. the Marlin_3DP08_3DP11_398. I have that firmware ready to roll. I believe Marlin V1.0 is still on machine right now. "Mendel ready" pops up on LCD. However, after much repeated asking Hictop and sending several pics of machine,.. no Model number was ever confirmed. I have that and I am set up for flashing it with Arduino 1.0.6 with a win10 machine,.. but sill not confident I have a good starting config.h & config_adv.h files. The nozzle height seems too low for starting print and is scratching kapton tape. when using auto bed leveling - grid - 3 points.Any chance, anyone, here, is more familiar with Hictop and might be able to determine which model this actually is from some pics & description? I can stare at pictures of machines, till I'm blue in face, but fear there is some certain nuance I am missing when identifying. I'm fairly computer techo & competent with CNC machining but not much experience with 3D printing or the printers available. The controller board is Red says MPX 3 & , power supply is 24V model S-360-24, Steppers are 42HD4027-01 from goldenmotor.cn, SN04-N inductive proximity sensor on Z axis. Not sure if the model I have,,.. which closest Prusa model,.. it can be considered,.. to be a clone of ?,.. so many to choose from in slicing software. ( might it be the the original i3 or MK2, MK2S, MK3 or MK3S+,.. etc,.. I think you see my point.) I don't mind using the Prusa slicer, Pronterface or the Repetier-Host,.. Does anyone have a preference? A few last bits,.. Does anyone know if the BOARD it Uses is a ATmega2560? with integrated RAMPS 1.4 onboard. Also does it actually supports dual extruder?Can this printer utilize Marlin 2.0? Thanks for and and all input.

[Roberts_Clif]

The Board is an ATmega2560 it will use

#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_BASE_14

As it has 5 Stepper motor Drivers for use with X, Y, Z , E0 and E1


3DP11 Red
3DP12 Blu
Believe me these are your 3D Printer with a few upgrades. Capable of 3D Printing ABS without notable Warp.
The Twins 2.jpg

[RapidPrintGuy]

Thanks for the quick reply Clif. Info very helpful.Nice clean setup for your two units. Great cable management as well. I'm getting ready to print one of those cable chase models.I have to be honest though,. I can still stare at those two printers and not see the difference between the 3DP11 & 3DP12,.. well,.. other than color.Are there some physical differences in Hictop models?Curious do you print quite a bit of ABS it appears you print directly on plate? not Kapton or Blue Painter's tape?Thanks againJB

[Roberts_Clif]

3DP11 Red is a 12 volt 3D Printer, while Blu is a 24volt 3D Printer.

Red came with a Z-Axis end-stop manual switch, while Blu came with a Z-Axis inductive proximity sensor.
Both have been upgraded to Omron low profile inductive proximity sensor.
They are mounted on a spring loaded slide mount for quicker adjustments using a thumb screw.
TL-W3M.jpg

Designed a new cooling Duct for my heat sink attached to throat.
This extends the throats life extremely well last replacement was almost a year.

TL-W3M 3.jpg

Old Slide Mount

SN04N-1.jpg

All modification
I have made are available for download including all versions of Marlin modified for Hictop 3DP11/12.

[Roberts_Clif]

These are a must for your Smooth rod support. printed these twice the first looks bad.

This mount will make your 3D Printer easier to adjust Nozzle height. bed leveling will be more accurate.