New to NYLON - Help? - FF CreatorPro

[JoshiTravels]

Hi All,

Been having a flick around the forum and I think Im in save hands!

Ive had my FF Creator Pro for a while now, and have loved what Ive managed to do with it.

I need to start printing in Nylon for a project I've taken on, so I picked up a 10m sample of Nylon and upgraded the left extruder to the MicroSwiss all metal hot end.

First print was at 250c - The layer adhesion was really good, but it came out all molten and frankly a bit of a mess.

Second attempt I lowered the print temp to 230c and it was much tidier, but the layer adhesion was terrible and I could literally pull the layers apart. Still came out like a blob in places.

The part I'm printing is small, about the area of your thumbnail, is less than 10mm tall and prints as two parts that are then assembled together. In ABS/PLA it prints perfectly, its just too brittle.

Here are the settings ive been using:

Object Infill - 100%
Layer Height - 0.27
Number of Shells - 1
Feedrate - 41mm/s
Travel Feedrate - 56mm/s
Print Temp - 250, then 230
Bed Temp - 75%

The Nylon is 1.75mm and black. I took it straight out of the plastic bag it came in and loaded it into the all-metal hotend. There was a bit of popping/crackling so I assume its absorbed some moisture? Is it really necessary to dry it out in the oven for 6-8hrs as one webpage I saw suggested?! Thats not exactly ideal for regular printing is it!

Any tips or suggestions for how to get this molten picasso of my drawing to print properly would be fantastic!

Cheers all

Josh

[ServiceXp]

You should try decreasing the temp in 5 degree increments starting at 245.

[JoshiTravels]

You think the speed will be alright though?

And to your knowledge, is there any software that'll allow replicated prints that fully print, then bring the Z-axis back up, and start again further over on the X/Y - like the way a laser cutter prints, only with the up/down movement too. Because then I could line 5 next to each other and fully print each one, allowing the hot end to cool down by 5 degrees each time.

[JoshiTravels]

ANOTHER QUESTION - Taulman Bridge. Shall I just buy that and go from there? Its a shame it doesnt come in more colours, but if im honest the visible half of the product isnt actually weight bearing so can be made from regular ABS

Anyone got experience with this stuff??

[curious aardvark]

best advice: either cough up the dough for mymat nylon. OR use pet, polycarbonate or polyflex.
Depends how rigid it needs to be and if you're using nylon, then probably not that rigid.

As far as printing one after another - yep simplify3d will let you do that - but what would most likely happen is the extruders would catch the finished prints at some point.

As far as bridge goes - I have some (somewhere) just never got round to trying it (this is because I currently don't actually know where it is).
whatever you do avoid the alloy 910 - hands down the worst filament I've ever tried to print with. Kinda like nylon with added attitude.

You're in the uk so can use the full range from globalfsd. so before going the nylon route.
Try some petg. I've never had any luck with taulman filaments - but their new techg looks good - on paper ;-)
http://www.globalfsd.com/tech-g-by-t...-3d-1064-p.asp

But basically unless you can afford to import some mymat nylon - probably best to just avoid nylon entirely. It'sa right bastard and will never give you completely clean print. Even the mymat still has the standard nylon fuzziness.

Try polycarbonate or petg first. And if it doesn't need too much rigidity then try polyflex.

[JoshiTravels]

best advice: either cough up the dough for mymat nylon. OR use pet, polycarbonate or polyflex.
Depends how rigid it needs to be and if you're using nylon, then probably not that rigid.

As far as printing one after another - yep simplify3d will let you do that - but what would most likely happen is the extruders would catch the finished prints at some point.

As far as bridge goes - I have some (somewhere) just never got round to trying it (this is because I currently don't actually know where it is).
whatever you do avoid the alloy 910 - hands down the worst filament I've ever tried to print with. Kinda like nylon with added attitude.

You're in the uk so can use the full range from globalfsd. so before going the nylon route.
Try some petg. I've never had any luck with taulman filaments - but their new techg looks good - on paper ;-)
http://www.globalfsd.com/tech-g-by-t...-3d-1064-p.asp

But basically unless you can afford to import some mymat nylon - probably best to just avoid nylon entirely. It'sa right bastard and will never give you completely clean print. Even the mymat still has the standard nylon fuzziness.

Try polycarbonate or petg first. And if it doesn't need too much rigidity then try polyflex.

If I could reach out and kiss you I would! Absolute hero. Ill have a poke around on this site and drop them an email for recommendations and what not.

I basically want a strong, non-brittle material thats got good adhesion (because the way my part is printed) and thats machine washable.

I figured Nylon, but if others are better, im all ears!

[JoshiTravels]

http://www.globalfsd.com/tech-g-by-t...-3d-1064-p.asp

MY GOD

This website is INCREDIBLE. Looking at carbon-fill filaments too. So many projects in the pipeline that will benefit from this site. 5-10m samples are more than enough too! Ive used so little of my filament reels. I dont tend to 'waste' plastic printing phone cases, vases or pushing the limits of my printer. Its pretty much exclusively for product development, and everything im working on currently is fairly small. 5-60 minute prints max tbh...

I cant thank you enough

[djprinter]

You'll get better layer adhesion if you reduce you're layer height to 0.2.

[ServiceXp]

You think the speed will be alright though?

And to your knowledge, is there any software that'll allow replicated prints that fully print, then bring the Z-axis back up, and start again further over on the X/Y - like the way a laser cutter prints, only with the up/down movement too. Because then I could line 5 next to each other and fully print each one, allowing the hot end to cool down by 5 degrees each time.

I have no experience with Nylon, I was just making a general statement. When I'm trying to make a decision about the best extrusion temp, I never change the temp by more then 5 degrees in either direction. Please let us know you you make out.

[curious aardvark]

You'll get better layer adhesion if you reduce you're layer height to 0.2.

why ?
layer adhesion is almost exclusively a product of the printing temperature.

You could argue that larger layer sizes are better for layer adhesion as there are fewer layers to split.
But realistically it's almost entirely down to printing temperature.
I find that for pla, 210 seems to be the sweet spot. Hot enough to give a really good meld and cool enough to still get clean and sharp prints.

@josh
lol you're welcome. I'll pass on the kiss, wouldn't want to give you beard rash ;-)
You might also check out 3dfilaprint as well - the other side of globalfsd, they sell the full reels. Best prices in the uk that I've found - mainly because all their prices include p&p :-)
And the only ones who sell reppapper tech - my current favourite filament manufacturer, though polymaker run them a close second.
And they're a good bunch as well, always load me up with free stuff at the tct show :-)
Mind you so did polymaker.

Where abouts are you in the uk ?