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Thread: Pla Prints come off mid-print
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01-31-2016, 05:44 PM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
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- 8
Pla Prints come off mid-print
I am using a wanhao duplicator i3 and on about every print, the prints come off the print-bed. I am using painters tape and the tape is coming off the bed. I am using hatchbox filament and I have tried turning off the heated bed. I am having no luck trying to get anything to print, what would you guys recommend putting on the bed?
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02-02-2016, 02:27 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
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- 18
I use HFT blue painters tape and the elmers purple to clear glue stick and havnt had a relase since this combo unless the z home is wrong and your too far way from the bed.
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02-03-2016, 12:47 AM #3
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03-06-2016, 09:44 PM #4
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
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- 4
Things to try
Things worth trying or thinking about.
1. I found that adding a glass printer bed made life much better. The glass stays flatter and I have to level less.
2. Try some different approaches to getting good adhesion. Some brands of painters tape (3M Scotch) seem to be much better than others. With PLA, i have had much success with Glue sticks, some folks have brand prefers here too. For ABS I've had the best results with cheap Aquanet Maximum Hold hairspray. Apply a couple of thick layers and let dry (speed up with bed heat)
3. Observe the quality of your first layer. Is the first layer being pressed down and smeared onto the bed or just a rope laying on the surface? Take time to adjust the bed level to get good mechanical adhesion. I'm betting that this is an issue for you. with the bed and extruder HEATED, adjust the bed up until a sheet of computer paper will fit between the head and bed with a bit of drag.
4. Look at the orientation of your part. Are you asking a tall part to be anchored by enough surface area? You can add more surface area by adding a brim or raft. Use the slicer setting to increase the width of the brim or raft to create a more stable base.
5. An odd thing that I have found is that rotating items so that long edges are not aligned to the X or Y axis can make the difference when the extruder head is catching and dragging the parts over.
6. SLOW DOWN. 35 mm/s is a more realistic speed for the Di3
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03-07-2016, 03:01 AM #5
Have you checked that you are not slightly overextruding ? Because it adds up and you can then have the head bump into the print.
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05-07-2016, 02:51 AM #6
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Posts
- 12
aw.......so sorry .....I never got such a problem........
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