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  1. #111
    I am glad to support your work - with cash or resin. I traded for a Pegasus so that I could use the new ceramic resin. No luck with FSL as they don't make that resin or provide even basic info on what of their products are similar. I would be glad to buy a BBB with firmware and use Slic3r (as I do with other printers) when you get there. Does anyone know the approximate intensity settings for the FSL resigns so I might guess? Is there a way to test this with an etchable surface instead of the vat that has been tried? Thanks.

  2. #112
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    The calibration data in my git hub repo contains the settings I'm using with Maker Juice. I'm trying to build a new VAT and have been busy with other projects and haven't had time to complete the VAT to do more testing. Hopefully by the end of the year I'll make some more progress. I am debating buying a Form 2, and if I do that, i'm not sure how much more work I'll do on the Pegasus.

  3. #113

    Help with the VAT

    Doobie,
    I am not sure if my last attempt at messaging you worked, so her it is again. I have a new Pegasus VAT I am glad to donate to you in order to aid your finishing the BBBfirmware for that FSL3D machine. It is the https://fslaser.com/Product/PegasusPDMS. I am anxious to use it with some new porcelin resin that FSL3D does not make and will not support. Your work and work around could be a boost to my effort in designing a new gas heater element (with internal cavities best 3D printed). I can send it out any time. Just send me the address and name to roger.j@eidonllc.com. Thanks for the effort to date. Roger

  4. #114
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    I thank you for the offer, I'll try to send you my address shortly. The firmware does work fairly well last I ran it, I know a few things I need to tweak, but whatever I publish in the end will still need to be calibrated to your printer and specific resins. I hope to have better details on how to do this, as of right now I'll have a bit of time around the up coming holiday's. I also have the issue that even when I was using FSL's firmware the printer didn't work very well in the winter as my house generally isn't warm enough. I moved the printer to a warmer area of the house and it's a smaller room so I can easily heat it a little bit warmer if needed.

    That sounds very cool about the porcelin resin? Do you know how much energy it requires to set it? That might give me an idea on how to adjust the calibration for you.

    /Jason

  5. #115
    IGood. The resin is called Porcelite and found it through Kickstarter. They are coming out with a generic resin to which you can add all sorts of powdered material - pretty cool. My design is patented and protects the heated UR surface with a thin dome while providing for cross flow exhaust heat recapture. Thus nearly doubled the IR from a gas element. I'll ship tomorrow once I get the address. Do jet me know what BBB I need to get. Thanks.

  6. #116
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    Cool. I will have to check out that resin. I sent you an email. I included info about the BBB.

    For anyone else....here is info on the BBB (note: put hot glue in the power jack to prevent you from putting the 24v one in there, BBB's are NOT regulated).

    I am currently using this BBB (Rev C):


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



    I am planning to order this one soon so that I have build in WiFi (I think they won't be available for 3 months though):


    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...562-ND/6211000

  7. #117
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    Just received a BBB wireless. I set it up, but am too tired to install it into the Pegasus. That'll be for another day either tomorrow night or the weekend. I updated documentation on the github. Once I have this up and running I'll possibly try a second time to set it up and reorg/clarify the instructions.... Also, hopefully it will work with the 4.4.x kernel which I upgraded to rather than downgrading to 3.8.* as I was using before.

  8. #118
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    I printed a hollow pyramid again today (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757). It came out nice, except I goofed up and bumped the lid and missed part of one layer and a full layer or two on the supports. I will need to work on better support for when the lid is open. For now I just put a magnet on the sensor. I've always had alignment issues, but due to the loss of the layers it came out tilted a bit, but still looked good: https://twitter.com/CrazyNHMtnMan/st...09893854105601.

    I was hoping to print this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 tonight, but family took over. Hopefully I can kick it off early in the morning. If it prints well I'm going code up a quick z-axis alignment feature and then releaes the changes with documentation on how to enable a system with the firmware.

    Also note, that the company behind BeagleBone's released a WIRELESS version that is compatible. I've been using it for testing since Friday night. It seems to work well, but I think the kernel I setup is a little unstable, so I might either upgrade or downgrade. I have the software working in the 3.8 *and* in 4.4.x kernels. I would recommend the 4.4.x kernels, as the software does suck for 3.8..... BTW, the pyramid took about 40 minutes to print. I used a large amount of support structure than I previously used which I hope is why it took so long, but also I increased the time between laser points so it's a bit slower. I was noticing the laser "dragging" from point A to point B if A and B were far apart. I coded but haven't debugged something that will try to alleviate that by giving long moves more time before running the laser, but it hasn't run successfully yet.

    Funny story...due to the long move delays I accidentally goofed up and coded something that made the laser/galvo do random things, it freaked me out when I ran it, because the laser started running super fast and moved randomly around and crashed my system. When I rebooted the first thing was I manually disabled the galvo/laser to debug, then family called and 3 hours later when I went back to debug it forgot I disabled it and freaked out thinking I killed the printer. Thankfully it's pretty resilient....

  9. #119
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    Latest code posted, I'll be printing something else at lunch time. Last night was busy and I didn't have time.

  10. #120
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    I printed the ball and socket item... I also created a dropbox here for images of prints

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v4sj9ecdb...f4ZAepMca?dl=0

    Gcode I used for the above (and any other calibration prints) will be posted here:

    https://github.com/doobie42/OpenPegasusGcode

    I do need to post my slic3r files I'm using, probably today or tomorrow I'll post them.

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