Itty Bitty Double FLEX V2

[clough42]

My experience is with RAMPS. Hopefully someone here can help.

Ultimately, you need the firmware configured to output a servo signal on one pin and arrange for 5V and GND on the two others. Some boards, like RAMPS, have provisions for the power.

Look through the firmware and see what it's doing when you set to 34. 34 normally changes the fan output to be a second extruder heater and moves the fan to another pin. Sometimes it's D11, so make sure you aren't trying to put the fan and the servo on the same pin. The fan output should be straight-up PWM, and a servo will look like a 1-2ms pulse every 22ms. You should be able to find the servo outputs with an oscilloscope, if you have one, but be aware that the signal may go away if you have SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY set.

[gddeen]

- When I switch from E0 to E1 the drive goes 10 times faster

G91:T1:G1 E0.5 F30:T0:G1 E5 F300:G90

Both drives do about the same thing, T1 sounds rougher.

I HAD them both doing the same. Now they aren't.
I believe an M221 S87 jumped it into rough mode.
I had gotten it back with a M501. But, now it is staying rough.

I set micro steps to 16. I did a M502 (reset values), M500 (write them)
and that doesn't fix it.

I've changed so many settings that I think I just need to start over.

[clough42]

I know nothing about those drivers. Are they entirely software controlled?

I typically run 1/16 microstepping. Usually when I hear that one extruder "extrudes about ten times as much plastic" the person has added a new driver to a RAMPS board without installing the microstepping jumpers.

I'm not sure what you mean by "rough mode." Just thinking out loud about things to try:

• Is microstepping set the same?
• Is the motor current set the same?
• If you swap the motor wiring at the board, does the problem move to the other extruder (i.e. is the problem in the controller or in the motors or wiring?)

James

- When I switch from E0 to E1 the drive goes 10 times faster

G91:T1:G1 E0.5 F30:T0:G1 E5 F300:G90

Both drives do about the same thing, T1 sounds rougher.

I HAD them both doing the same. Now they aren't.
I believe an M221 S87 jumped it into rough mode.
I had gotten it back with a M501. But, now it is staying rough.

I set micro steps to 16. I did a M502 (reset values), M500 (write them)
and that doesn't fix it.

I've changed so many settings that I think I just need to start over.

[gddeen]

The firmware/software/hardware goes a long way to hide the details.
I've a lot to do so everyone can go to sleep while I do the work.

[servo signal]
At the Code level micro stepping for each stepper is set at 16. The hardware is labeled A11, A12, D11, D12 each with 3 pins. Which I assume are +,-,signal for D11. The LCD control board has a good 5v power which I am using to drive an auto leveling servo.

[steppers]
there are 5 stepper ports. I have done no research as to how they are addressed/driven or what 'micro stepping is' and if it is performed at the hardware level. I assumed they are output ports driven with processor interrupt timers and Those signals go straight to power switching circuits for output.
Each have their own separate analog adjustment to keep the voltage at the appropriate level. I have not calibrated the output.

The problem follows the port. So my first step will be to adjust the current.
I had seen both working very well at the same time sequentially one after the other.
[ I don't know what RAMPS means to people. Ibuprofen or Motrin? ]

I'm moving to get the single nozzle up and the servo. The fans, heaters, end stops,thermistors are working.

Home and auto leveling are working (with a servo workaround).

The LCD displays are off. They are turned on by including the drivers into the
firmware. I need to do this also.

[Firmware]
Marlin 1.1.0.RC3 has support for MKS which sets up the heater bed as PWM on pin 7. I was kinda hoping it would have explained a bit about the board so I don't have to look up what the processor pins are... My understanding so far is that there are a bunch of ports and the processor seems to be able to assign/reassign them as pins.
These possibly refer to a standardized GPIO bus used during the 70s... (It will be easy to understand when I go read it.)

I know nothing about those drivers. Are they entirely software controlled?

I typically run 1/16 microstepping. Usually when I hear that one extruder "extrudes about ten times as much plastic" the person has added a new driver to a RAMPS board without installing the microstepping jumpers.

I'm not sure what you mean by "rough mode." Just thinking out loud about things to try:

• Is microstepping set the same?
• Is the motor current set the same?
• If you swap the motor wiring at the board, does the problem move to the other extruder (i.e. is the problem in the controller or in the motors or wiring?)

James

[jackal24]

Would this work on a Pegasus?

[gddeen]

Is it a Marlin firmware? Do you have access to update it? Do you have 5 stepper drivers? Do you have spot for an extra thermistor?
If so... Will it fit your bed?

[jackal24]

The Pegasus is another makerfarm kit. It looks to be mostly the same as the i3v, but using metal extrusions instead of wood. It also comes with direct drive extruders. The electronics should be able to handle it, I was more interested if it will fit the backplate correctly.

[clough42]

Would this work on a Pegasus?

Yes, I think it will fit the Pegasus. The back plate is different on the Pegasus, though, so you will need to print a compatible back plate. I have one available on Thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945613/#files

If you just want a stock plate, you want the NoCams version.

The only possible difference would be if the spacing of the X axis extrusions is different. Colin tells me it's the same, but it's easy to measure. My two i3v printers measure 59.2mm and 59.7mm across the outside of the two horizontal extrusions. If yours are close to that, the above back plate should work for you.

[jackal24]

Thanks for the info

[gddeen]

Also, I can modify any STL or CAD to allow you to make a back plate. (As can lots of people...)
Do you currently print with a J-Head? If so, it's a no brainer.