Can FTD resin with 0.5% shrinkage be used as Peachy Juice?

[quertz]

Hey Dragin.sh,

wow, thanks for that post; good research you did there...

[/dev/null]

This thread has a lot of useful information now, thanks to everyone who posted. I made farther research in attempt to find notable pros and cons of different resins.

All FTD resins are opaque, but in Peachy gallery prints are transparent. I did not think much about this at first because there are "unpigmented" FTD Industrial and Standard Blends. I wrote to FTD about this, and they answered that pigmentation is needed to prevent "light bleeding". As far as I understand, FTD offers only opaque pigments. I guess that means FTD resins are better for opaque prints, but not transparent ones like with PeachyJuice (I assume that examples in Peachy gallery are printed with it). Another thing they said is that color of Standard unpigmented resin is clear light yellow, Industrial Blend is slightly lighter in color, and natural color of the Standard Blend will influence lighter pigmentation colors.

Assuming FTD resins will work well with Peachy Printer, this is my current opinion what resin to choose depending on what you want the most. Feel free to correct me if you think I'm wrong about something or if you have some useful information to add...

If you want your prints to be...	then consider...	Comment
glassy transparent	PeachyJuice	Officially supported resin, available in many colors
opaque, optionally colorful	FTD Snow White	Comes with free color pigment
high temp resistant	FTD Industrial Blend	Can withstand up to 225C
more flexible and less brittle	FTD Standard Blend
used for casting metals with high melting point	FTD Casting Blend
highest possible precision and deep black color	FTD Deep Black

Random notes:

• How strong and stiff FTD Industrial Blend is? Check this video to see how much stress it can take before it breaks. Stiffness of PeachyJuice is similar, not sure how much stress it can take though. Standard Blend will be less brittle and more flexible than this.
• Most resins are not intended to withstand high temperatures, and may become soft even around 100C if not sooner.
• Castable resin, even though it is intended for casting iron, bronze and other very hot metals, is not high temp resistant, it is intended for investment casting.
• FTD Industrial Blend may be used to make molds for metal casting with low melting point (example by someone casting metal to 3D printed mold).
• This website mentiones shelf life for FTD resins is about 1-1.5 years, depending on storage conditions, but PeachyJuice "is best used within 6 months of arrival".
• It may be possible to use transparent dies (like these) to give FTD Standard and Industrial Blends transparent glassy look, similar to what we can see in Peachy gallery. But I'm not sure, I could not find any photos to confirm this.
• Peachy Printer is not as precise as much more expensive printers, so FTD Deep Black may not give any visible improvement. In this case, buying Snow White with black pigment may be better choice, because you will get two colors instead of one.
• Table above does not mention MakerJuice G+ and SF resins because I could not think of any use for them. If somebody knows why they could be better than FTD resins for some specific purpose, feel free to comment.

[Synchron]

Snow white + pigments will get you more than 2 colors because of gray version with only a little portion of pigments. On the other hand, i think you wont get a realy black black...

[/dev/null]

It's like with 2D printer: if you have two basic colors (white paper and black ink), you can get many shades of gray in between. If you have "ink" (pigment) of 4 basic colors + white resin, you can get pretty much any color you want by mixing them right. FTD actually offers pigment set with 4 colors for €12.50.

Deep Black should be darker than Snow White + black pigment. But Deep Black is 20% more expensive and its color cannot be changed.

[rylangrayston]

Just droping in to say how much I love this thread, wish I could spend more time Replying here, but producing printers is my top priority right now and the machine that makes the aluminum dampers is broken again, so Im off to the lathe to fix that.... ether way I dug up this response I wrote in an faq, that applies to the conversation here:
"
Can you use 3rd party resins with the Peachy Printer?

Yes.
We have worked hard to make the printer and software easily accept other resins. That dose not mean that every resin out there will work although we haven't tried one that dosent work yet.
- The software has specific features for testing out the exposure needed by a unique resin ( cure rate test)
- The software has an over ride laser power feature, so you can set a different power level than called for by gcode.
- The Circuit has a common laser diode socket, so you can easily change your 405 nm laser diode to a different diode better suited for curing your 3rd party resin.
If you do try a new resin with peachy printer be sure to post about your experience in the forums as many people will be excited to here about it.
"

We really haven't tested enough resins here at peachy yet, I think it is very likely that once we ship some v1 printers someone will experiment with 3rd party resins That will work much much better, and we will simply let that process of discovery set the next "standard" or "officially recommended " resin.

[iplayfast]

This new resin should work. (ceramic!)
http://www.gizmag.com/3d-printing-st...84561-90094333

[Anuvin]

I emailed that link to Makerjuice. I hope they make some, instead of Form 1 buying it and charging a zillion dollars a liter for it.

[Alchemy]

This new resin should work. (ceramic!)
http://www.gizmag.com/3d-printing-st...84561-90094333

It is exciting but maybe not as easy as getting the resin. Reading their original patent it sounds like a special printer is still needed. Another article talks of firing in the presence of a Argon to change the chemicals, so I couldn't just buy a mini-kiln.
Patent http://www.freepatentsonline.com/8435438.pdf
Article with a bit more http://www.opentronics.it/OTJ/feeds/...-1-400-degrees

[Anuvin]

Adding argon to a kiln is a simple matter of driving to your local welding supply, picking up a tank, and piping it up. I never saw anything about needing a special printer, and I can't find it in either of your links. Maybe I just skimmed over it. How special could their printer be? It costs $3k, which is absolutely nothing for an SLA printer. I believe that would be considered entry level.

[Alchemy]

How special could their printer be?

The microstructure grows into an exact pattern made by the laser intersections. Imagine every link of a lattice is a direction of a laser beam curing that node. Reminds me of crystallography in reverse. Plus its a patent forcing exclusivity of that technique.