Flashforge filament not sticking

[aweber89]

Hello-

I have a new Flash Forge Creator Pro. I am trying to print the traffic cone that is preloaded on the SD card. Right now the ABS pools up on the extruder and does not stick to the bed. Any suggestions? The bed is level. Thanks in advance.

CAM00212.jpg

[LAFilament.com]

Hello-

I have a new Flash Forge Creator Pro. I am trying to print the traffic cone that is preloaded on the SD card. Right now the ABS pools up on the extruder and does not stick to the bed. Any suggestions? The bed is level. Thanks in advance.

CAM00212.jpg

Clean the bed REALLY well and confirm z height. I found using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol on blue tape works. On glass, I use a squeegee.

Confirm layer height and make sure the first layer is getting a bit smooshed.

Mo
www.LAfilament.com

[aweber89]

What should the Z height be set at?

[LAFilament.com]

The rule of thumb I see stated is to fold a piece of paper in half and slide it under the nozzle. It should grab/drag.

I use a business card I have lying around for the same purpose...

Mo
www.LAfilament.com

[curious aardvark]

business card is generally too thick. I use 90gsm (business cards are usually between 200-400 gsm) paper.

Also you need something coating the printbed: hairspray, blue tape, glue stick etc.
People do get abs to stick to kapton (what the bed comes covered with) but I never managed it :-)

[Sebastian Finke]

Hello-

I have a new Flash Forge Creator Pro. I am trying to print the traffic cone that is preloaded on the SD card. Right now the ABS pools up on the extruder and does not stick to the bed. Any suggestions? The bed is level. Thanks in advance.

CAM00212.jpg

Really not enough here. Temps, feeds, software... all needed.

More importantly, did you calibrate your extruder?

[djprinter]

business card is generally too thick. I use 90gsm (business cards are usually between 200-400 gsm) paper.

Also you need something coating the printbed: hairspray, blue tape, glue stick etc.
People do get abs to stick to kapton (what the bed comes covered with) but I never managed it :-)

Newer FFCP's like his come with a buildtak like surface, it doesn't need anything on it for abs or pla to stick, it just needs to be kept clean. Wipe it with acetone and make sure you're nozzle/plate gap is right and it should stick without any problem.

[Bobby Lin]

I recommend you clean your bed with spray (3DLac) or Builtak so your filament will stick to your ABS material.

[warkmal]

For a brand new printer with a brand new print bed assuming nothing is physically broken, the problem has to be (with >90% probability) that the bed isn't close enough to the nozzle. It's a little unfortunate that we call it "level build plate". Technically what we're doing is "tramming" that is making sure the bed is parallel to the print head motion.

But for beginners printing small parts at the center of the bed, even more important than "level" is how far. Because the code isn't big enough to notice much tilt in the bed, it's more important how far away the bed is. I think that's why beginners get confused by the "leveling" terminology and say things like "the bed is level".

Yes, it may be "level" but it is "level" too far away. When the printer commands Z=0.2mm for that first layer, it needs to be pretty close to 0.2mm because the extrusion has to hit the bed to stick.

I think that sample part was sliced with ReplicatorG which assumes that you are actually at 0.25mm away when z=0.2mm which provides for a 0.05mm piece of paper. Many slicers however assume that it matches precisely. It should be ok +/- 0.5mm it's just the first layer will be either underextruded (adjacent lines won't stick to each other) or over extruded (elephant foot). Beyond that, it's likely to have problems not sticking either because the head isn't squishing it much and/or it's running into the over extrusions and cleaning the print up into a ball on the nozzle.

[JustOneMore]

Is this why I can't print anything without a raft?