12" I3V Build

[tsteever]

In slic3r, you can control the top layer extrusion width and speed. You cannot control them separately in Mattercontrol. I had the top layer extrusion set slower and narrower than my other layers. It resulted in a very smooth and uniform top layer. The mid layers however use the same settings as other layers. I felt that slic3r over extruded in the middle. When I adjusted the flow rates for those layers, my top layer would suffer. I could never find the balance.

I don't have that issue with Mattercontrol. I have been told that S3D is amazing and worth the price. I find I get great results with MC. Here are a few pics... The first pic was sliced with Slic3r. Take a look at the overhangs. Yuk! The second kind shows the overhangs. Same print, same settings. I know it is different material but both were PLA from the same manufacturer. Trust me, it is the slicer. I have printed this design multiple times. The MC slicer wins ever time. IMG_3276.jpgIMG_3400.jpg

[BLKKROW]

I currently use Simplify 3D and I love it. You can customize everything you ever wanted and the support options are incredible.

I used Slic3r for over a year and couldn't get consistent prints. I would highly recommend S3D.

[Mysta]

I would also recommend you setup auto bed leveling as it makes life so much easier. You will need to print the servo mount parts and get yourself a servo.

Does this go for the Pegasus as well?

[Dustin B]

Got the printer on Friday (got the brake job on my car done yesterday and now only 2 more projects before I can start building it). Opened the box to check I got everything and to take some photos of the build in relay on the heat bed.
bottom.jpg
top.jpg

So what would you do to switch to PID control? Just add a jumper wire, remove the relay and add a jumper wire in it's place, remove the relay and move the one 12 guage power wire?

[printbus]

Thanks for posting a pic of the relay. A few have mentioned the built-in relay, but I believe you're the first to provide a picture of it. This reveals the heat bed is using the same 30-amp G8QN Omron mechanical relay that is used on the standalone relay board.

To go the PID route, you'd first want to remove the two small black wires from the heat bed. You might be able to reuse the wires to control the SSR, but the SSR will require you to keep the polarity straight between the electronics board and the SSR. The mechanical relay didn't care.

After that, removing the relay depends on how comfortable you are in attempting to remove it. The two pins that solder to the wide traces would be a problem for some. I'd probably just jumper across those two pins with some heavy wire, leaving the relay there in case you roll back to using it. There'd be two options to jumpering across the pins. You could move the heavy gauge wire from the wide trace just going to the relay to the relay pin connecting to the other wide trace, but the solder pad there is smaller. The other option would be to scrape away the soldermask on the two wide traces where they are the closest and build a solder bridge to short the two traces together.

[Dustin B]

Just to make sure I understand since I've never done any significant electronics work. The relay has 5 pins. The two small wires are going to the pins that control the electromagnetic switch. The pin between those two is the common pin. Then with the two left, the one on the wide trace is the normally open pin and the one not connected to a trace is the normally closed. So then when current is applied to the small wires it closes the switch which disconnects the normally closed path and connects the normally open path.

Would it be possible to jumper the common and normally open pins with some sort of temperature fuse so if the the heat bed ended up getting too hot the fuse would blow?

I've got an Aoyue 9378 60 Watt soldering station with a 10 piece set of tips. But my usage of it so far has been splicing wires, doing EC3 and EC5 and motor/esc connections for my RC stuff. And that hasn't been a lot. So I have the right tools, just not a lot of technique with it yet :P

[printbus]

Just to make sure I understand since I've never done any significant electronics work. The relay has 5 pins. The two small wires are going to the pins that control the electromagnetic switch. The pin between those two is the common pin. Then with the two left, the one on the wide trace is the normally open pin and the one not connected to a trace is the normally closed. So then when current is applied to the small wires it closes the switch which disconnects the normally closed path and connects the normally open path.

Correct.

Would it be possible to jumper the common and normally open pins with some sort of temperature fuse so if the the heat bed ended up getting too hot the fuse would blow?

In theory, yes. The challenge would be to find a suitable temperature fuse that can handle the high current of the heat bed, while also adding as little resistance in the path as possible.

I've got an Aoyue 9378 60 Watt soldering station with a 10 piece set of tips. But my usage of it so far has been splicing wires, doing EC3 and EC5 and motor/esc connections for my RC stuff. And that hasn't been a lot. So I have the right tools, just not a lot of technique with it yet :P

A 60-watt tool and the experience with the heavy EC3 and EC5 would likely make the pins on the wide traces easy to deal with. If removing the relay, you'd need a solder sucker or solder wick to remove solder from individual pins or a hot air rework tool to soften the solder on all pins at once.

[Dustin B]

Finally started building the printer

IMG_20160217_082001.jpg

What do I set "#define POWER_SUPPLY" to in the configuration.h file using this power supply?

[Dustin B]

Oh and how freely should the delron wheels turn? Really tightening the screws on the aluminum build plate makes it so they can't turn. Can't get things that tight on the wood. Loosening it so the wheels turn really freely more than just the wheels turn. What I think is the best middle ground between the two still has the wheels a little stiffer than I'd like. Is it preferrable to have a the wheels a little stiff to help keep things under control?

[BLKKROW]

Oh and how freely should the delron wheels turn? Really tightening the screws on the aluminum build plate makes it so they can't turn. Can't get things that tight on the wood. Loosening it so the wheels turn really freely more than just the wheels turn. What I think is the best middle ground between the two still has the wheels a little stiffer than I'd like. Is it preferrable to have a the wheels a little stiff to help keep things under control?

You want the wheels to spin but not wiggle or be loose on the rail.