What plastic for Printer Parts

[BLKKROW]

I want to change out a lot of parts in my printer for 3D printed parts. Right now I only have PLA but I want to buy something better suited for the part.

I have been reading and I think PETG is a good choice. Is this a good choice or what would you choose? These parts would be near the hotend for cooling and gears for the belts so they will experience heat and stress.

[ssayer]

PETG is a good choice...

[Sebastian Finke]

I want to change out a lot of parts in my printer for 3D printed parts.

Why? Curious...

[BLKKROW]

The design in many aspects is basic from Makerfarm. I am looking to increase the details of my prints which means changing the X axis where the belts are mounted and changing a few more things.

[Sebastian Finke]

Then I would make an alternative suggestion: Have your new parts machined from aluminium. You will benefit from the rigidity of metal parts over printed plastic parts.

[tsteever]

I am curious what changes you would make. I see there may be room for improvement on the z as well. For example, the v slot wheels on my z don't all spin when the z is moving up and down. I can freely spin the inside wheels. Also, I'd like to firm up the z towers a bit. I see some resonance waves in the side walls which I think is from the towers rocking.

Building the the parts first from ABS or PETG is a good way to prototype. I have used ABS with good results.

[printbus]

... For example, the v slot wheels on my z don't all spin when the z is moving up and down. I can freely spin the inside wheels.

This indicates to me that you did not have the left x-motor and right hand x-idler brackets properly adjusted to the vertical rails and the two brackets level with each other BEFORE you tightened up the horizontal rails to the end brackets.

EDIT: ...regardless of whether or not the build guide was clear on doing this. It certainly wasn't mentioned in the April 2014 build guide that I used.

EDIT #2: With the horizontal rails loose on the x-motor and x-idler brackets, adjust each of the x-axis brackets to their respective vertical rails. Then level the two x-brackets using the method of your choice. I used a long metal ruler as a straightedge across the top of the two brackets. Others have adjusted for something like equal distance between the bottom of the brackets and the tops of the z-motor mounts. Then, and only then, tighten the horizontal rails to the x-motor and x-idler brackets. Tightening the eight M5 bolts on the horizontal rails will likely torque the x-axis assembly out of alignment, so some readjustment or pre-tensioning in the opposite direction may be necessary.

[tsteever]

Thanks printbus, yes it is finicky. There wasn't anything in the guide about this. I did do it as you mentioned on my initial build, without the leveling step. I noticed the freely spinning wheel and redid it buy loosening the x brackets and then adjusting the cam wheels, then leveling and tightening it up. I need to do it again I guess and take a bit more time. I really like how the MTW Mendalmax 3 is put together. Their x-axis and extruder mount system is very robust and makes adding dual extruders effortless. I see many correlations to the new pegasus printer and the MM3.

I would look for inspiration there if making changes. I have seen some pretty amazing prints from those. It has taken me many hours of tinkering and tweaking to even come close to the results a colleague is getting from his MM3.

[BLKKROW]

I received my roll of Hatchback 1.75mm PETG in white, but I am printing a series of parts that I am selling. So I will finish that first before fiddling with PETG.

[3DPBuser]

Aluminum is an interesting option. Maybe someone will start selling them. I guess it would need to be a hollow frame to keep the weight down.

Mine are currently PLA, but I want to make them PETG. However in either case, if the extruder fan breaks, the heat might go up and melt something. At least PETG will last a bit longer, but aluminum would be great here.