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  1. #1
    Technician
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    Building a Prusa i3

    Hi there everyone,

    I'm new to this forum and new to the world of 3D printing. I've always wanted a 3D print since I was introduced to the technology, but never had the money to buy one. Kinda lost hope on the idea of ever owning one until I started Googling and discovered there are open source plans all over the net and I could build on for a faction of the price, due to the fact that I have access to a fully equipped workshop/toolroom (lathes, milling machines, band saws, welding machines, etc)

    I found some plans (.dxf files) on the internet for a frame to laser cut, and got a set cut out of 6mm aluminum. Some of the edges are rough, so I will file them smooth, then drill and tap the 3mm holes. I decided to go with a frame that has triangular supports just to give it some more strength. See the pic below. I will make my own y-corners out of square aluminum as I have all the sizes needed. I've got all the threaded rod and smooth rods already, just need to get some linear bearings and I can start assembling the frame.

    Just wanted to start a build log here for people to follow. I also wanted to ask if there is anything specific I should know, any tips or tricks to help me out along the way? Any weak spots on the default Prusa i3 that I can make better? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    The Y axis made from threaded bar and 3d printed blocks is probably the weakest point on the prusa i3 I've never had a problem with the alloy frame moving .. The side supports are probably overkill.

    I came across what I think I'd a better design it's called the p3steel you might want to look at that it fixes the problems I just mentioned.

  3. #3
    Technician
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    I will replace alot of the printed parts with parts made of aluminum, such as the Y-corners and motor mounts etc.

    I had a look at the P3Steel design. Looks like it would be much stronger, but would there be a HUGE difference in print quality between the 2 designs?

  4. #4
    I wouldn't think so I'm not having any print issues related to the i3 frame.. the only issues I've had are with the heated-bed
    and the spring configuration I made for leveling it, autoleveling using a sevo and microswitch needs constand fiddling. I'm doing away with all of that and using a silicone heater attached to an aluminium bed that will be permanently fixed, and will use an inductive probe for bed leveling very similar to the printbot simple.

    you've got a nice frame, and I'm sure you will do a good job of making a sturdy y axis frame for it.. it should be good.

  5. #5
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    Can you send me more information regarding the leveling of the bed? It was something that I was thinking of. Here is a pic of the Y-corner blocks I made to. It's made out of 3mm aluminum square tube. the holes are drill 10/20/30/45mm from the bottom up. The top hole that the smooth 8mm rod goes into was first drilled right through using 6mm bit, the only 1 hole drilled using 8mm bit. Then I want to drill and tap the center of the smooth 8mm rod so i can put a bolt through the Y corner block and into the smooth rod, helping stabilize the smooth rods to the whole frame. Not sure if it will work out, but I'll try it.

    I'll hopefully be getting the motor and idler mounts as well as some linear bearing this week then I can start assembling.


  6. #6
    there isnt a lot of clerance above the 8mm smooth rod for the Y Carriage (unless your going to raise it up a little) here are some pics of the plastic parts you can see the smooth rod sticks out the top:



    you can also see the spring configuration for leveling the bed I.m going to remove that completely on the new build and just use a fixed bed (still held in place with the 3mm screws it just wont be adjustable) and I will use a inductive proximity sensor to do the auto-leveling.

  7. #7
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    Ok yes i see what you mean. I will cut my aluminum blocks shorter so that the bed doesn't touch.

    I have seen guys using proximity sensors for auto leveling. I think I will use that system.

  8. #8
    Technician
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    So I went to my local 3D printer supplier today, picked up some 3D printed parts, bearings, motors, and a few other bits and pieces. I will start assembling tomorrow and then share some pics.


  9. #9
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    So I've been busy this weekend. I ended up spray painting my frame and bed red, because the aluminum was badly scratched. I sand blasted it first, then 3 coats primer, then 5 coats paint. Everything is coming together nicely, only having a slight problem getting the bed to move smoothly from end to end. Some places move smoother than others but I guess i just need to adjust the threaded rods until I find a happy medium. I just need to get a few more bearings and a few odds and ends, then its just stuff like the electronics and heated beds and ends.





  10. #10
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    Apr 2015
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    Lakeport, CA.
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    Looking good!

    I'm sure you already know, but just in case: be careful when bead or sand blasting aluminum alloys. Depending on thickness and composition, they can curl rather easily/rapidly.

    Also, and ya probably don't care since you painted it, if it was an alclad type alloy, the bead blasting pretty much destroys the anti-corrosion properties of the aluminum cladding.

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