Newbie Questions..

[_Adrian_]

Hey guys...
I figured I'd start a "little" project with my kids as we started a CNC Mill build that slowly got pushed to the side.
It was supposed to be a gantry ( Cartesian) style mill 36" x 24" x 18" ( L x W x H ) which is quite a fair sized mill for "home" use!

Now they were wondering if we could still build something as a family project of course.
Seen my buddy pose a few pictures of the things hes been printing and was thinking what a great idea !!
He basically was clueless about my setup and gave me 3 pieces of advice :
1. - Controller - Ramps 1.4
2. - Use 1.75mm filament and use 0.3mm Nozzle for better quality, however this will make it slower
3. - J-head hot end

So onto doing some homework...
I already have quite a bit of stuff that accumulated towards that Mill so might as well put it to use!
List of materials on hand...

- 3x 6' Extruded Aluminum T-Slot Beams ( Mixed - 2x 2x4, 2x 2x2, 0.5x 2x1 and 1.5x 1x1 )
- 36" x 24" T-Slot Table Top
- 6x NEMA24 Dual Shaft w/ Rotary Encoders ( 425oz/in. ) w/ Flexible Jaw Spider Plum Couplers
- 4x 2MA860H Motor Drivers ( no special power supplies required as they are AC input )
- 2x 36" 20mm FSLB ( Fully Supported Linear Bearing ) w/ BB Slide Blocks
- 1x 36" ACME Lead-screw with Zero-Lash Nut
- 2x 24" 20mm FSLB w/ BB Slide Blocks
- 2x 24" ACME Lead-screw w/ Zero-Lash Nut
- 2x 20" 20mm Linear Bearing with BB Slide Blocks
Plus all the SS Hardware and SKF Bearings for the lead screws and Housings

Yes I know...
Its complete overkill, but I have it sitting here collecting dust so why not actually put it to use!

So... My questions are :
1 - Are the Stepper Motor Drivers compatible and can they be used with the Ramps 1.4 ?
2 - Is a heated "work area" required ?
3 - Whats your input on other nozzles and are dual/quad nozzles worth the upgrade ?
4 - Software ??

[old man emu]

There is no reason why you cannot use the plans and materials you have for your CNC machine, and instead of having a milling head, replace it with an extruder unit.

What you have to remember is that with a CNC machine, you are starting at the top of a block of material, and creating an object by removing what is not required. The G-code that produces the final object has the Z-axis starting at a point above the block of raw material, and then moving down towards Z=0 as the raw material is milled away. The opposite happens with 3D printing. The Z-axis starts at Z=0, and moves upwards as material is added via the extruder. In both cases the movement of the X & Y axes determines the shape of the object at each value of Z.

To create the G-code to operate your machine, use a program such as Slic3r, which is freeware. It is just a regular sort of CAM software, but it creates code that moved the Z-axis from Z = 0 to higher values for Z. (Say your object when finished is supposed to be 12 mm high, then the code produced will start at Z = 0 and stop at Z = 12mm. (Sorry, but 3D printing tends to use Metric measurements)

If your friend has got a 3D printer, he will be able to print an extruder assembly for you. Got to any RepRap site and you'll find the stl files for something like Gregs or Wades Extruder.

You can trade one of your NEMA 24 steppers for a bipolar NEMA 17 for the extruder. For a machine of the size you are talking about, keep the NEMA 24's for the X , Y, & Z axes. I'm not sure about steppers with rotary encoders. Simple bipolar steppers will do you, and they will work with the RAMPS board.

You will need a heated print bed. All that is needed is a sheet of aluminium with a resistor wire embedded in a coating of fiberglass resin. Have a look at the demister on the rear window of your car, and also look at the underneath of your friend's machine.

Nozzles are a personal choice. Initially you should get experience with just one extruder on your machine and after you master it, yu can look at multiples. The RAMPS board will operate two extruders.

Now get out in that workshop and build a big mother of a printer.

Old Man Emu

[_Adrian_]

Now get out in that workshop and build a big mother of a printer.

Old Man Emu

Thanks for the warm welcome

I had the same thoughts about the Mill VS 3D printer...
i went through the boxed on the shelf in the garage and noticed a few descrepencies on the order list.

When i unpacked the box with that was supposed to contain the drives and the controllers I found 4 Applied Motion STM23Q-3AE
Seems like the ebay wholesaler send me some oddball stuff... doesn't bother me, as its a reputable company vs no name made in china with 0 support !!
Also the beams aren't in inches like i thought but rather its metric stuff ( 1000mm x 750mm x 600mm )
No biggie

Now whats your take an multiple print heads ??

[old man emu]

No 1: Contact the vendor of the steppers and see if you can return them for credit on simple bipolar steppers (single shaft) of similar holding torque. Using simple steppers will let you use the RAMPS board.
No 2: Get a 30W regulated power supply (about $30 in thE bay. You want some electrical grunt to move those 425s.
No 3: Become acquainted with the approximate values of Metric measurements to Imperial (1/8" ~ 3mm; 1/4" ~ 6mm; 1/2" ~ 12.2mm; 1" = 2.54mm. If you are experienced estimated the size of nuts and bolts by eye, then you will not have any problem. I grew up using Imperial, but Metric is the standard in Australia now. I got back into imperial while working in the aviation industry, so now I use both.
No 4: You'll have to do your own research on multiple heads. I'm having enough trouble with one extruder head (I've given up doing anything with the one on my shoulders.)

Why are you on the computer. Get your Cannuck butt out to the workshop and start building!

Old Man Emu

[ethan]

can the FlashForge 3D printer

print mechanical parts?
and what can it not print?

[_Adrian_]

No 1: Contact the vendor of the steppers and see if you can return them for credit on simple bipolar steppers (single shaft) of similar holding torque. Using simple steppers will let you use the RAMPS board.
No 2: Get a 30W regulated power supply (about $30 in thE bay. You want some electrical grunt to move those 425s.
No 3: Become acquainted with the approximate values of Metric measurements to Imperial (1/8" ~ 3mm; 1/4" ~ 6mm; 1/2" ~ 12.2mm; 1" = 2.54mm. If you are experienced estimated the size of nuts and bolts by eye, then you will not have any problem. I grew up using Imperial, but Metric is the standard in Australia now. I got back into imperial while working in the aviation industry, so now I use both.
No 4: You'll have to do your own research on multiple heads. I'm having enough trouble with one extruder head (I've given up doing anything with the one on my shoulders.)

Why are you on the computer. Get your Cannuck butt out to the workshop and start building!

Old Man Emu

My Cannuck but is at work LOL waiting for the next plane to come in and deal yet with another bitchy pilot and hear moan about how the auto pilot likes porpoise :/

Those motors will work just fine, as i will onyl have to feed them step and direction directly from the RAMPS board.
I also found an 1KW 50V Antek power supply in one the boxes.

The sizing isn't an issue as I'm working day in and out with both...

Here's a rough "SketchUp" of what I had in mind...

3DPrint2.jpg

[old man emu]

The Sketchup looks OK.

Just tell those jet jockeys that they should be glad that there is something in the airplane that knows how to fly straight and level.

OME

[_Adrian_]

Posted on another forums... Thread can be found HERE

[old man emu]

Read what was on the other thread. You will have to address the moving mass problem.

Also find out how you tell your controller how far your moving pars will move in one revolution of the stepper shaft. You'll need that information to let the controller know how to get the head to a specifiy X,Y,Z location.

OME

[old man emu]

If you are going to make a flying gantry model have a look at this method of making a bearing:

www.thingiverse.com/thing:233402

When I made my CNC machine, I used this system of skateboard bearings on bright steel bar. Saves big bucks and all you need to do is spray the bright bar with WD40 to keep the rust away. You can see that the roller bearings run on the top half of the bar, so you can quite easily make some support block to put under th bar to stop it flexing out of alignment.

Old Man Emu