Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[wirlybird]

The slicer will adjust the plastic volume for the different layer height. The problem with anything over .3 or even .3 is it is approaching the nozzle size so the "ropes" coming out lay down more round. I try not to do anything over .24 for shells with a .4 nozzle. But infill doesn't matter. That's one reason why I suggest 160 micron, because doing infill every other layer at 160 means infill is laid down at 320 which is well within the capabilities of a .4 nozzle. If you do .24 layers or .2 layers then every other is .4 and .48, which wont work well with a .4 nozzle.

I got it. That makes sense. I forgot about limiting the layer height to a percent of the nozzle size.

So, if I were to do a .28 or .32 layer to be with the 40 micron deal I would want to make sure I was doing infill every layer but if I am doing a .16 (instead of .2) I can do infill every other layer and get better quality with reduced time?

I think I also want to do no more than a .32 layer with a .4 nozzle (80% of the nozzle)?

[jfkansas]

I got it. That makes sense. I forgot about limiting the layer height to a percent of the nozzle size.

So, if I were to do a .28 or .32 layer to be with the 40 micron deal I would want to make sure I was doing infill every layer but if I am doing a .16 (instead of .2) I can do infill every other layer and get better quality with reduced time?

I think I also want to do no more than a .32 layer with a .4 nozzle (80% of the nozzle)?

Right, I like to be at about 70% of the nozzle size but you can get up to 75% which is 300micron. But that is pushing the limits of a .4 nozzle. The 160micron shells and 320micron infills is a good setup for faster printing. On some objects, infill takes 3-4x as long as the shells, and it is something that you never see when the object is done. So speeding the infill process up helps a lot. If you are wanting to do .3 or .4 shells I would put on a .6mm nozzle. Actually the next step I like is 240micron shells with 480 micron infill, with a .6 nozzle. That gets shit done fast and still looks good. Spritz it with a little acetone afterward and good to go....

[wirlybird]

Right, I like to be at about 70% of the nozzle size but you can get up to 75% which is 300micron. But that is pushing the limits of a .4 nozzle. The 160micron shells and 320micron infills is a good setup for faster printing. On some objects, infill takes 3-4x as long as the shells, and it is something that you never see when the object is done. So speeding the infill process up helps a lot. If you are wanting to do .3 or .4 shells I would put on a .6mm nozzle. Actually the next step I like is 240micron shells with 480 micron infill, with a .6 nozzle. That gets shit done fast and still looks good. Spritz it with a little acetone afterward and good to go....

In S3D under the infill tab, is "Print Sparse Infill Every X Layers" where I would set it to "2", to get it to print the infill every other layer?

[jfkansas]

In S3D under the infill tab, is "Print Sparse Infill Every X Layers" where I would set it to "2", to get it to print the infill every other layer?

Yep that is it.

[Talon 3D]

I am having a heck of a time with PLA/PHA from Meltink.
Here is my Benchy boat. The bed is level, clean, glue applied. It stuck for the first 40 mins and then came loose. On top of it weird parts of it were printing perfectly and others a mess. Anyone have any ideas? I used S3D for my setup.

[jfkansas]

Crank down your extrusion multiplier to .9 if it is 1.00

[Talon 3D]

I had done that already. I feel like I am missing something simple.
Screenshot (102).jpg

Crank down your extrusion multiplier to .9 if it is 1.00

[DaveB]

I had done that already. I feel like I am missing something simple.

Temperatures, layer sizes etc?

[jfkansas]

Temperatures, layer sizes etc?

Ya need all the vital stats, lol... And better screen shots. Can barely read that.

[Talon 3D]

Here is what I have.
Screenshot (107).jpgScreenshot (108).jpgScreenshot (106).jpgScreenshot (105).jpgScreenshot (104).jpg