Flash Forge Adventurer 3

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  1. #4081
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Well, looks like things here are dying down a bit.

    I took a bit of a break when I had one extruder clog...then another. Just didn't feel like messing with it for a while. But, now I'm trying to get it active again.

    I'd had it disassembled for quite some time, and I seem to have forgotten some details. And QIDI's videos, while generally helpful, aren't so awesome when trying to rebuild from scratch after the entire extruder carriage has been disassembled.

    Anyone have any idea where I can find an exploded diagram?

  2. #4082
    I don't know of an exploded diagram, but I'll try to take some pictures while I'm working on my second unit in the next several days.

  3. #4083
    just got a Qiditech 1 unboxed yesterday. I use Simplify3D on Macos (11.11.6 el capitan) with my other printer so I didn't bother with the maker software. Fired up S3D and everything looked good. But, sent the first job to the printer over USB and only the right extruder heated up. The left and the bed just sat there cold until the unit timed out with some tones and read 2% on the screen. Never did anything after that for 30 minutes.

    After chasing a few wild geese and confirming the unit wasn't DOA I finally decided to save the same file to SD and it printed fine.

    Is there an issue with S3D and USB to this printer? Or is there a setting I'm missing somewhere? I've played with a couple of the GPX profiles under gcode tab of S3D, but nothing hopeful yet.
    Last edited by dibble; 05-11-2018 at 12:59 PM. Reason: added OS

  4. #4084
    I haven't had any usb issues. Did S3D recognize that the printer was still connected?

  5. #4085
    Quote Originally Posted by Percoseth View Post
    I haven't had any usb issues. Did S3D recognize that the printer was still connected?
    Yes. I was able to watch the temperature plot fine and was getting READ/SENT logs in the communication tab. I've tried two different USB cables, including the new/included cable with the ferrite ring that came with the printer.

    How old is your printer? does Qidi make firmware changes regularly? I thought they were using the last of the opensource from maker. But, maybe they're making their own tweaks? I dunno. Like I said I've had this printer less than 24 hours at this point.

  6. #4086
    How many watts is the heated bed on this? I am asking because the next question is where can I find a silicone heated mat at for it? My pcb broke a long time ago and I soldered the connector back on (after it got so hot it melted) and replaced the thin wires with 14ga silicone wires. Worked great (jb weld to the rescue to weld the connector back on) but after about 14 months ABS will no longer print in it as it warps any ABS it sees and not a common type of warp either. What happens is that the middle of the part sinks in OR the ABS (mind you this is only ABS not PETG or PLA) goes in an upside down pyramid. Not sure what is happening but I will work all of that out but a nice silicone heated pad of the proper temp (thermistor is attached) will help.

    Anyone managed to do this mod? Considering the first time I printed ABS with this printer (when it was brand new) it burnt up the "pc glue" that was on it YET I never exceeded the 100c it says right on it AND the stupid connector yellowed and melted I think a silicone heater pad would be the best bet so I am looking for anyone who has done this.

  7. #4087
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Annapolis, MD
    HiYa DA, it's been a while. How have you been doing? No idea on the QiDi Tech 1 bed wattage. I replaced my bed heater a year or so ago with the same when I somehow managed to short the heating circuit to the bed metalwork. I also put an insulating pad on the underside of the bed that improved the warm up times. The pad was called "cotton", but it isn't really, and it doesn't burn. I used some hi-temp RTV stuff to glue the insulating pad onto the heater PCB, that has worked well. I also put a thin sheet of thermal "gino" pad material between the heater PCB and the metal plate. Not sure if that helped or hurt the thermal coupling, but after having a short it seemed the right thing to do. After your experience, I had long ago replaced the heater power cables with some nice 12GA silicon super flexible ones and an inline JT-60 connector.

    Funny note, I unfortunately had a metalwork short in one of the thermocouple lines on a hot end, at the same time as the heated bed short. When I used an open end wrench to change the nozzle I of course shorted the bed metal to the hot end metal. The errant bed heater voltage instantly fried the thermocouple input IC on the motherboard. Wouldn't have been half so bad if I had not also done it to the replacement motherboard I installed a few days later. Luckily, the second time it happened I saw the spark.

    Hang in there DA

  8. #4088
    I am sure someone did the conversion over but trying to find them. The board I put corrugated cardboard under (sure did help) and glass on top but the wiring they used is just bad bad especially when you use it for ABS. I know a full 6x9 will not work since you have to have the three adjustment screws no matter what. I am thinking 5x8 would be the best but the wattage.

  9. #4089

    Microswiss all metal Hotend

    Just a quick note to this old post about changing to the Microswiss all metal hotend. I'm a machinist and noticed like many, the new nozzles fit rather sloppy. So I emailed MS about it and they replied they machine them smaller due to the variances from one machine to another's cooling bar tolerances. So, using an inside mic to measure the bore of my cooling bar and an outside mic to measure the MS nozzles I ended up with .007" difference. Took a Pepsi can and cut it apart, sanded off all the paint and sealer on both sides, ended up with a .003" shim stock. Cut it to just fit the bore of the cooling bar, smeared a very thin layer of the silver compound they sent on both sides of the shim, some in the bore and on the nozzle. Naturally most of it smeared off. It went together with near zero clearance. Works like a charm and printed much better than the stock nozzles. I didn't have to mess with fans, didn't have to mess with the temps at all and overall I feel it was a worthy upgrade. So for anyone having issues with the MS hotends this resolves the bad fit from nozzle to cooling bar, give it a try.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    Glass and glue stick works remarkably well for me. Lots of folks have bought the Microswiss and installed them in the stock QiDi. However the Microswiss all metal hotend assy is a slightly different diameter, and the use of thermal compound to fill the gaps is a requirement. Note that this swap may radically change your printing temps or retraction characteristics. There are also numerous blog entries complaining of filament jamming subsequent to the installation, and I wonder if these may be due to inadequate conduction / cooling due to the aforementioned diameter differences(?). Those complaints seem most often to be reported as resolved by enhanced extruder cooling fan modifications.

    Further, IMHO it will likely have no immediate positive effect on your printer's ability to use flexible filament. The Microswiss all metal is most often utilized when print temps above 235C are needed. At higher temps the PTFE liner in the MK10 hotend will degrade more quickly, and may even outgas some incredibly toxic stuff depending upon the temperature, the PTFE's formulation, and whose studies are believed. As many flexible filaments do not require higher print temps, more typically the issues with printing flex materials are caused by extruder filament management. Read up on the Flexion for example.

  10. #4090
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    After several years of faithful operation, my QIDI Tech only shows blocks on the LCD when I power it up. It did this once before, but after leaving it on for several hours, it started normally and ran correctly for more than a year. This time, it does not appear it is going to recover. I have left it on for several hours, switched it on and off quickly, without a change in the display. Any suggestions on what to try next?

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