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  1. #3921
    Technician
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    Sep 2016
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    Alrighty. How are you attaching it? Specific brackets?

  2. #3922
    Super Moderator
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...-IcaAs7K8P8HAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by Merijeek View Post
    Alrighty. How are you attaching it? Specific brackets?

  3. #3923
    Technician
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    Sep 2016
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    80
    You're just clipping the glass straight to the aluminum bed?

  4. #3924
    Super Moderator
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    yep, seems fine. No kapton or blue sheet. You can use those thin silicon pads, but I would still clip. I only use 2 clips so it minimizes interference. Usually back right corner and front left corner. I very rarely use the whole 6x9" build plate so there is always somewhere to put the clips.

  5. #3925
    I still think PrintBite is one of the better options.
    You can get it cut to the right size for the QIDI as well.
    No glue and hairspray to keep things tight.
    Editor in Chief
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  6. #3926
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Northern Ohio
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    198
    I just use these with threaded knurled M3 - .5 knobs from Amazon.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001405
    I never trusted the binder clips in terms of running into them with the print head. Glass is very versatile. You can glue it, hairspray it, apply tape to it... etc. What I like about it the most is that you yank the plate as soon as the print is complete and place another plate in the printer and you are back up printing in minutes while the other print cools. When cool they release themselves with no yanking around inside the printer. I rarely have to level my bed because I am not putting any stress on it whatsoever.

  7. #3927
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Ya I have some corners like that but always end up going back to clips. I know where the print head is going based on print/travel previews in S3d. Generally like I said front left and back right is safe, and I place things on the plate accordingly. The clips don't go fully on, just about 1/4' is all it takes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd-67 View Post
    I just use these with threaded knurled M3 - .5 knobs from Amazon.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001405
    I never trusted the binder clips in terms of running into them with the print head. Glass is very versatile. You can glue it, hairspray it, apply tape to it... etc. What I like about it the most is that you yank the plate as soon as the print is complete and place another plate in the printer and you are back up printing in minutes while the other print cools. When cool they release themselves with no yanking around inside the printer. I rarely have to level my bed because I am not putting any stress on it whatsoever.

  8. #3928
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    So, I ordered some borosilicate glass from McMaster-Carr and it finally arrived. I've got a print for a 5mm Z-axis spacer printing now.

    Any special cautions or tips on this stuff? Just use binder clips and AquaNet?

  9. #3929
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    For ABS I'm almost always doing slurry. I do wipe the glass with Aquanet on a towel as a "cleaner". Some swear by just Aquanet, it just never works for me, especially on big prints. If you go the Aquanet route you gotta get it on there thick. Like 3-4 heavy coats and let each coat dry before the next one goes on. There are Youtube videos on this.

  10. #3930
    Quote Originally Posted by Merijeek View Post
    So, I ordered some borosilicate glass from McMaster-Carr and it finally arrived. I've got a print for a 5mm Z-axis spacer printing now.

    Any special cautions or tips on this stuff? Just use binder clips and AquaNet?
    I use only Gino to attach it to the plate, no need for clips.

    What thickness did you get? My original was 1/4" and a chunk pulled out of it when removing an ABS piece. Went to 1/8" and haven't had any issues so far.

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