Flashforge Dreamer - things sticking TOO well to plate

[lithgowlights]

I have an odd problem. I am running a Flashforge Dreamer with buildtak sheet on the bed, and things, mostly ABS, are sticking too well onto the bed, making them really really hard to get off. I am running extruder temps around 220-230c (Depending on the ABS color), and bed temps of 110c and the items stick like they are superglued. Even getting a corner up means I have to pry every mm of the item up. The bases of the object also look a little white as well, so maybe this is a helpful indication, and it's not coming from the buildtak - that's blue, brand new and nothing white has ever been printed on it.

Heating the bed back up does help a little, as with no heating I have been unable to even start prying the items off, but heating seems to weaken the bond ever so slightly and allow me to get a spatula under the item to start.

PLA sticks great and once you get a corner up it just pops off, and that's with a bed temp of 50c, or 60c at night when the temps hover below freezing in the shed where the printer is located.

[DrUsual]

I have a Dreamer as well, but I haven't used buildtak sheets. I always print on glass, so not sure how much I can help, but I do have a few thoughts. Most important is that when I'm printing with ABS, I'll usually wait to remove the print until the bed cools down. Very often the print just pops loose of the bed on its own when it gets cool enough; if it's a lot of surface area I'll actually hear the "crack" from the other room.

If I'm trying to print multiple objects without stopping to cool and reheat the bed I'll use a putty knife to pop the first print off. I tend to set the knife flat on the edge of the bed, then stab at the juncture of the print and bed -- I don't want to slip it under and do too much prying because I could push the bed out of level. Sometimes a couple of jabs will break the seal between bed and print, but sometimes I do have to wait for it to cool.

Another thought -- 230 seems rather hot for ABS. Which brand and color do you find that needs to be that hot? I'm wondering if the whiteness you're seeing is actually the color being burned out?

[AmyInNH]

My Creator Pro came with build tak (I believe) and following their ABS instructions, bed temp of 90 and extruder temp of 220, prying off was a bit difficult at first but got better pretty fast. I use an artist's knive, it slides right under a corner and continues around the object.
You could also try backing down your bed a little bit.

[Nargg]

I saw a video where a guy would use "canned air" turn the can upside down so it would spray a cold shot of liquid, and point it directly at the base of the print. The plastic would react slightly and pull away from the glass, making the model pop from the bed. I've used that a few times. It doesn't work very well on some prints, but works fantastic on others.

[djprinter]

ABS sticks to aggressively to build tak--I think the problem is that it's a flexible surface so ABS doesn't pop-off when it shrinks like it does on harder surfaces. I removed it which isn't easy, it took about a cup of acetone and a half hour of scraping to get all the glue the factory installed build tak left on the plate. I'm now using a glass plate with kapton tape and my abs prints remove themselves when they cool.

[curious aardvark]

try printing abs at the same bed temp as pla.

But it does sound like yet another reason to just not bother with abs.

[Jasink]

Good advice, thank you all