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  1. #11
    Technologist
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    Nov 2014
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    Brevard, NC
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    182
    In case you did not print that yet. I added some rounding to the sides & also put my X-axis belt clamp in the zip file. The belt clamp matches the contour of the outside of the x-carriage. I also added a version with ears on the corners to keep it from lifting off the print bed if you have that problem. The link for the download is: http://www.zewind.com/X-CarriageModified_rev20.zip
    Here is a screen capture of the design showing the change.
    X-Carriage_rev20.jpg

  2. #12
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    I did get it printed out but I am going to have to reprint. It ended up being a bit weak in the thin area along the bottom edge of where the servo mounts. Going to have to tweak print settings a bit for better layer adheasion. This thing was a pretty long print.

  3. #13
    Technologist
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    Nov 2014
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    Brevard, NC
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    182
    If printing in ABS or even one of the other types, you may want to try the version with the ears that are .5mm high. You can cut them off easily with a box cutter knife afterwards. That seems to really help my prints stick, although occasionally it has not always worked. Did you test the fit of the servo with that print before trying it again or was it too bad of a print to test that?

  4. #14
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    211
    Quote Originally Posted by PyramidDave View Post
    If printing in ABS or even one of the other types, you may want to try the version with the ears that are .5mm high. You can cut them off easily with a box cutter knife afterwards. That seems to really help my prints stick, although occasionally it has not always worked. Did you test the fit of the servo with that print before trying it again or was it too bad of a print to test that?

    The servo seemed to fit ok but the print cracked along a layer around the servo area.

  5. #15
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Brevard, NC
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    182
    With the approximate 16.5 deg. overhang in printing that opening, there is a little bridging involved. I did not really look at that opening that closely last night, but I have printed a completely vertical overhang before & it drooped a little at 1st but final part came out ok. That was when I did a test print of a one piece version of the LCD wood panel with the bottom LCD opening at the top of the print. If the overhang does not print well, you could try adding some support. I prefer not to print support if I can help it.

    What type of plastic were you printing with, ABS, PLA, PETG, ...? I am really liking the PETG plastic.

  6. #16
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    211
    I printed it using ABS, I had S3D generate support for that area. It was just poor layer adhesion that caused it ABS is a pain sometimes but I don't trust PLA for those type of parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by PyramidDave View Post
    With the approximate 16.5 deg. overhang in printing that opening, there is a little bridging involved. I did not really look at that opening that closely last night, but I have printed a completely vertical overhang before & it drooped a little at 1st but final part came out ok. That was when I did a test print of a one piece version of the LCD wood panel with the bottom LCD opening at the top of the print. If the overhang does not print well, you could try adding some support. I prefer not to print support if I can help it.

    What type of plastic were you printing with, ABS, PLA, PETG, ...? I am really liking the PETG plastic.

  7. #17
    Technologist
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    Nov 2014
    Location
    Brevard, NC
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    182
    I know what you mean. I mostly printed it PLA for testing, since it is so much easier. I had a thought using a small brass rod to give it more support from the heat of the extruder. Essentially adding a bump of plastic with a hole for the bar to go thru just behind the top of where the extruder mounts. This idea worked really well with the Y-bed design I made. Looks like there is enough room with the ABL added also. I will post a photo later when I have time to draw it up. I could add some support within openscad that might be less plastic than the slicers generate.
    Last edited by PyramidDave; 06-14-2015 at 06:24 AM.

  8. #18
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Brevard, NC
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    182
    After looking at this design some more, I decided to modify it further. I liked CalifDan's idea of adding another triangle support to his Bull dog Lite ( http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post60903 ) & looks like I have room to put one on this carriage. I would really like to print this in PETG instead of ABS, so I am trying adding a brass rod in the design & give it plenty of spots to dissipate the heat. I kept Chadd's idea of allowing for adding an ABL on the side. I just change 1 variable in the openscad file to print that version. I added an angled Z into each side to see if that gives more support versus making those solid.
    Here is a photo of what I have so far.
    X-Carriage_rev23.jpg

  9. #19
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Brevard, NC
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    182
    I took another look at CalifDan's design & realized there is not really any reason that I can see to make that opening larger where the hotend is, so I opened that up a little wider leaving 6mm of plastic from the opening to the mounting holes.

    X-Carriage_rev24.jpg

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