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  1. #11
    Best tip, Curious aardvark. Slow bottom layer + glue stick and fine results.

    Thanks, Jeex exit

  2. #12
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    oh yeah that works. But it can be an absolute sod to get the models off.
    here's a tip. If you've got two models close together and you're using your digital calipers to lever them off the bed. Don't hold the sharp end in your hand.
    Removed a fairly deep strip of skin from a finger doing that :-)

  3. #13
    The only solution for getting them off is patience. Wait for the glass to cool off.

  4. #14
    Engineer-in-Training
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    You can also try to edit the STL file and add pads at the corners, for example 10mm diameter circles, 0.5 or so in height. It will help to reduce the stress at the corner and distribute the pull over a wider area.
    I attached a picture to show a part I made, the printing pads are easy to cut away after printing, they also help to get more leverage to unstick the part from the print bed.
    PanCam_PanBaseA_52.jpg


    Hmmm, that image came out very small... you can see the thing here.

  5. #15
    Staff Engineer Davo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainObvious View Post
    You can also try to edit the STL file and add pads at the corners, for example 10mm diameter circles, 0.5 or so in height.
    Yes, or add stl files that you already have ready:

    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...light=davopads

  6. #16
    I use painters tape, and even hit it with hairspray, no curling but can be a PITA to remove. The tape is usually stuck pretty good to the part once i get it removed, then i just use some solvent, similar to goo gone to remove the tape.

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