HK Turnigy Fabrikator - Upper layers not solid

[PhilippG]

Hi there,
i got my first printer a few days ago.
Had to fiddle around some time to get it working, but now it starts to print.

My problem however is, that from about 3mm above the bed on, the print is no longer solid. There are no solid walls or ceilings. It just is some sort of wireframe.
Here i have linked a picture of 2 printed objects.

http://ablage.gromotka.eu/IMAG0124.jpg

The Object itself was downloaded from Thingiverse.

I am using Cura 12.12 and 1.76mm PLA.
The printer has a 0.4mm Nozzle.

My settings are (in the order of display in cure):
Layer-thickness:0.1mm
Outer shell width: 1.2mm
Retract: yes

Filling top/bottom: 1.2mm
Filling: 40%

Speed: 50 mm/s
Print-temp: 190C
Bed-Temp: 70C

Support: none
Platform adhesion: none

Diameter of material: 1.76
Feeding (?): 100%

I will start trying to find the cause on my own, but maybe someone here could give me a hint on what causes my problem.

Greetings!

[itsthedanyole]

hey! join the club with the turnigy printer. i got one too! i had a lot of problems with cura, i had to switch to repetier host and slic3r. but with cura, check your retraction, it shiuld be about 4mm, next fiddle with flow rate, then temp "i use pla at 210deg", then play with flow rate and filiment size. is it really 1.76? that could be the problem, try 1.74

[PhilippG]

Hello!
Thank you for your reply!

I got it working by just trying around.
The Problem was related to insufficient filament flow. When i increased the Extruder-Temperature, the print got much better!

I am now printing PLA with 220°C . It is quite high, but works very well.
I dod not change Filament flow.

For me, the printer works very well. I am quite impressed by now.
Hopefully you can figure out your problems, too :-)

PS: I will try, if chooying another filament size makes it even better. 1.76 was, indeed, the measured size, but just because i am curious, i will give it a try!

[itsthedanyole]

just as a hint, i liked the origonal firmware a lot better. i upgraded it and then it printed the 1layer 1mm too high on cura and couldnt fix it. . had to switch to repetier host and slic3r and am having a really hard time. i can perfect a print but it takes soooo much tweaking, its almost not worth it. wish i could get cura to work again. that and there is no one else with these things, they are so new.

[itsthedanyole]

Do you still have the original firmware? I could sure use a copy of it!

[PhilippG]

No, i had to reflash the firmware.
I did not change it because of printing problems, but because something in the menu did not work.

So i am currently running the one thats also on the HK-Website together with Cura 14.12

[joop1987]

The printer is compatible with the current version of Marlin 1.0.2. I have updated mine without any problems. Just copy the settings in the configuration.h file. This attachment has the settings copied already. HK3DP_Marlin-1.0.2.zip.zip

[PhilippG]

Thank you joop.
I may try it, too.

I have discovered another "problem" and was wandering, if that behavior is correct.

My method was printing a gcode file with just one line of code and then measuring the voltage on D8 and D9 first with the devices disconnected, then with the devices connected.
When the printer starts, both are at 0V.
Every measurement was done directly after switching on the printer.

Unconnected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 12V | D9 = 9V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V

Connected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 2.7V | D9 = 0V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V


Summary:
M190, instead of heating the bed, does nothing, but the Fan-Speed controls the heating of the bed.

Is it supposed to work that way or is there something seriously broken?

[joop1987]

Thank you joop.
I may try it, too.

I have discovered another "problem" and was wandering, if that behavior is correct.

My method was printing a gcode file with just one line of code and then measuring the voltage on D8 and D9 first with the devices disconnected, then with the devices connected.
When the printer starts, both are at 0V.
Every measurement was done directly after switching on the printer.

Unconnected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 12V | D9 = 9V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V

Connected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 2.7V | D9 = 0V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V


Summary:
M190, instead of heating the bed, does nothing, but the Fan-Speed controls the heating of the bed.

Is it supposed to work that way or is there something seriously broken?

I think you have your hot bed and fan connected backwards. D9 is connected to the fans. D8 to the hotbed.

[PhilippG]

I think you have your hot bed and fan connected backwards. D9 is connected to the fans. D8 to the hotbed.

I have connected them the way you described it.

I even disconnected the cables and connected them to another 12V supply to see, if the labels were correct and if there might be a shortcut anywhere.

The mechanical connection is right.

I even flashed the firmware you uploaded to the printer, but still the same issue.

UPDATE:
I completely disassembled the Control board to get to the Arduino Mega.

Digital Pins 8 and 9 seem to be shorted.
I tried with a custom sketch:
Both Pins Low: 0V
Both High: 5V
One Low, the other High: 2.5V

The measured resistance between D8 and D9 with the Arduino off is < 1Ohm.

I thing my Board is broken.... replacement is on it`s way...