Flash Forge Adventurer 3

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  1. #21
    I couldn't get the PLA working properly, jams too easily. If I heat up the hotend, extrude stuff a bit and let it just sit there like 10 seconds or more, it's already jamming. Works when printing larger parts but small details are no-go. I'll probably need to purchase another hot end if I want to print PLA.

    So I switched to PETG, which works without problems. Benchy:

    Also I did some refactoring on the racks and motor mounts, they had bit too much of looseness and I moved one connector a bit as it was causing and unnecessary hole on the side. Also added a tie groove to help aligning multiple parts.
    This time I printed the pieces from black PETG; I want to see if PETG would be better material for the rack setup. It's bit more flexible than PLA. Moving the slide manually seems that it does move more freely than PLA when both are moved without lubricant. Will be testing this once I get it installed on the X-axis properly.

  2. #22
    Been busy with other stuff, but did manage to get new Y-axis parts printed using PETG:

    Also designed and printed a jig for aligning the rack parts. Works fine and it's all printed parts:

    I used soldering iron to fuse the parts together so the parts don't move in use.
    The new racks seems to move more smoothly. I printed few rose stems and the results are quite good:

    There were few skipped steps on the other print, I loosened the Y-mount a bit and set stepper amps bit higher and seems to be working fine now.

  3. #23
    Not much happening with Dollo, nee involved with Prometheus System and it's taking my time. But I did print some extension parts, I'm planning to extend my build from 36xm x 36cm to 48cm x 48cm (outer widths). Z axis will remain the same, would need to get longer lead screws for that. Z-axis provides about 41cm of build volume, which is ebough for now.

    One problem with such a large width is that the beams start to drag: even now I can see that Y-axis has ~1 mm sag in the middle. I think I'll have to buy some 8mm threaded rods to keep things straight. But that'll be in future, other projects take all my time now.

    Oh I did print this thing to use in sauna:

    Black PETG, 0.3mm layer, height ~33 cm. Had bit of problem with over-extrusion, changed MK8 hobbed bolt to E3D HobGoblin and forgot to clean eeprom after updating E steps/mm in firmware. And support material was bit pain to remove as it's PETG.
    Other than that the print is quite good, even et the top. There's bit more 'wobble' in layers towards the top as the bed isn't very rigid, but still good enough. And it seems to hold water

  4. #24
    Long time no updates on Dollo, Prometheus and my related project, filaswitch g-code post-processor has been taking my time. But I've been meaning to do 2 things: change X and Y stepper drivers to something better than A4988's and use sandpaper to smooth the X and Y rails.
    Finally got some time and swapped the Trinamics TMC2100 drivers to Dollo. The difference in worst-case noice level is huge: A4988's had that certain speed area where the movement would just resonate very loudly and it was not nice to listen. With TMC2100, smooth as butter. TMC2100 also have interpolated 256 microsteps, meaning that the controller board sees them as 16 microstep chips, but internally they do 256 microsteps. This should make round surfaces smoother as motors move in smaller increments.

    Also took the rails out and sanded the grooves. Especially the joints needed some cleaning, it's been evident that they do cause bit of artifacts to print surfaces. Also checked the motor gears for print artifacts, something I should have done when I printed to gears.

    Result seems much better, at least regards the outwards aesthetics of the printer; seems fluid and doesn't sound like something is going to break any minute. Doing 3DBenchy right now, will post result after.

  5. #25
    Slic3r sliced and Dollo printed:

    Need beefier fan for the part cooling fan, some problems with bridging. Otherwise looking good. And Trinamics drivers seem to remove some moire-effect from the front of the ship.

  6. #26
    Any thought on using this printer to print a dollo?

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_Hinson View Post
    Any thought on using this printer to print a dollo?
    Print volume should be enough. Might need to export smaller rack-part as it's currently 16cm.
    Quality seems decent if the example pictures are true. Some calibration prints recommended before printing the parts.
    Also it seems to be compatible with S3D and Cura so possible to tune the print settings.

    If the printer works reliably, it should be possible to print Dollo with it.

  8. #28
    Hi Spegelius,

    I am currently printing my own 3D printer from the GitHub repository (
    I am printing it with 0.8 mm nozzle on a very stable Ultimaker 2, material PLA. You have any suggestions before I build everything because you might have some experience.

    I hope you have time to answer.


  9. #29

    your printer should be good for printing Dollo. I've printed some of the parts with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8 should be fine as there's really no need for really detailed parts. Main thing is that they are dimensionally correct and consistent. I've posted some notes about printing the parts in this thread previously.

    If you are printing the files from benbeezy's repo, be prepared to have bad experience with the z-axis. It can be made to work, but the print quality won't be good. This is the first print I did with the original z-axis implementation (the blue tower):

    2016-09-06 12.25.07.jpg
    As you can see it's not very consistent. At that time X and Y axes had problems also, but z was the worst.

    But the good thing is that you can reuse most of the stuff sans the z-axis parts and build one with threaded rods. My current setup uses tw0 10mm threaded rods and prints quite nicely:

    Latest models with the z-axis parts for threaded rods are here:

    You'll probably need to modify some parts. Also there no good list of what parts to print... haven't had time to improve Dollo stuff, it's been printing stuff quite a lot lately

  10. #30
    Hi, Thanks for the update.

    I was also thinking about threaded rods for the Z-movement. Printing gears with some error increase gigantically with perspective to the printing accuracy. I have seen your dropbox photo's and I have to say that you have nice workarounds for multiple issues.

    And from your point of view, would it be beneficial to make this 3D printer to save money instead of just buying a RepRap and might I ask how much money you spend to this point or would you suggest of buying one?


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