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  1. #31
    Technician
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    Oct 2014
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    so a week or so into my kapton covered glass bed, and its amazing the difference it makes, things actually work now. prints are coming out great, still have to use an acetone wipe down every other print, but thats not a problem. thinking i may just stick to this way. now time to cover the other glass beds.

  2. #32
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    Apr 2015
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    Add Nargg on Thingiverse
    Well, after trying Kapton tape, I'm going back to glue or painters tape. Kapton tape in my opinion is the devil's work Getting on a glass bed is a frustration headache just waiting to happen. And the stickiness just wasn't any better than glue or painters tape from my few test prints. Some folks may have the patience to use this tape, but it's not for folks who just want to get the job done. And, since I seem to be able to get similar results with easier to use methods, well then, kapton tape is not an option for me.

  3. #33
    Student
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    Aug 2014
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    Coimbra, Portugal
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    My experience on this issue is, I now use kapton tape on my glass bed, ABS sticks great, the trick? have 2 (or more) glass plates,
    when first one finished, lift the model and plate off the bed, and leave until COLD, model then just falls off plate with no effort, fit another glass plate if you need to be printing something else,

    I am getting 8 or more prints off the same kapton covered plate using this method, never looked back since I converted to glass bed with kapton!

  4. #34
    Super Moderator
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Kapton isn't really sticky, it is just a material that can withstand high heat and doesn't tear off easily like Blue tape. It is a film instead of a coated paper. You should still use some type of adhesive on the Kapton, like glue stick or hairspray, or ABS Slurry with for ABS prints. I don't think anything beats a nice think borosilicate glass/pyrex, with whatever adhesive is needed. It is flat and easy to clean because nothing permanently adheres to it. It is easy to scrape clean with a razor. Maybe the build tak stuff would come close, I haven't tried it yet.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Ghosty View Post
    yea they are the same, i had to google elmers stick, one link had them side by side lol
    I sometimes use honey, has anyone else tried this? works great with the ultimaker 2, still experimenting with the flash forge

  6. #36
    Technician
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    Oct 2014
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    @nargg,
    i guess its a works for some and not for others, i just had an idea and thoughid try it out, is that not what 3d printing is about . i was getting ok results with glue stick, but not enought to justiy it as a permenant solution. i never print in abs so its on pla i have to work with.

    @jaykay
    glad i could offer a suggestion that i had not seen tried, and it work for you. like you i have multiple glass beds, and are now all covered with kapton, never really had an issue other than prints sticking to well, and the alu being fixed to the heatpad, now as you say i can just remove the one with a print on, put another in, wipe with acetone and away i go again.

    @jfk
    no that is true, but when heated it has a natural tack that holds the molten pla. i dont need anything ather than a quick acetone wipe every other print and it works just fine. im using float glass (same as in picture frames) of 3mm thickness, guess i just found something that works and im sticking (pun intented) to it. .

  7. #37
    Student
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    Aug 2014
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    Coimbra, Portugal
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    @ghosty
    I have been doing it this way for 4 months now!

  8. #38
    Technician
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    Apr 2015
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    OK, here's a little extra help on this topic:

    Kapton tape that's little easier to install: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ilpage_o07_s00

    And something I found that's a LOT easier to install and gets the same result: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ilpage_o06_s00

    Also, place these sheets on the glass top at start, then tape one side to the side of the bed or glass. Then lift to that one side, peel the non-stick off starting from that "taped" side and slowly press down with a ruler from that side going slowly to the other while peeling the non-stick off. Then take the extra tape off. You'll get excellent results that way. I learned this from installing glass protectors for cell phones. The tape on the side helps keep the cover aligned as you pull the non-stick off and apply the cover to the surface. Edit: found this cell phone example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt9_fZDT-As same procedure works really well on applying these covers to your print bed.

  9. #39
    Technician
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    Oct 2014
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    93
    for those that have been following this thread, you will know i have been trying to find a viable method to print perfectly every time, and while i have tried and exausted all methods, with some success on most i have decided to call it a day with a glass bed. not with 3d printing just using glass

  10. #40
    Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghosty View Post
    for those that have been following this thread, you will know i have been trying to find a viable method to print perfectly every time, and while i have tried and exausted all methods, with some success on most i have decided to call it a day with a glass bed. not with 3d printing just using glass
    Wow that is surprising to hear. That is all I print on with ABS. Almost always use slurry, sometimes glue stick on smaller parts and other types of filament.

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