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  1. #11
    Hi Idig, Running through the offset calibration as we speak, it's slightly off but not to hard to adjust.

    The problem i have uncovered now is the two jets are not the same on the Z axis. Meaning their height relative to their mounting to the print head is different, so calibrating the Z axis is not possible as the two heads are at different heights......any thought? Short of taking apart the printhead, I'm stumped right now as I don't thin there is an adjustment for this.

    One further request from everyone, if anyone has a CubePro Duo, could you please take a picture of your print head from the bottom and post it up or send it to me. In looking at it this morning I noticed that the side cooling fans (Y axis, aimed directly at the print nozzles) are not mounted the same. One is mounted outside of the bracket, the other is mounted inside the bracket. Yep, seriously. I will fix this today as well but just want to know if they should be inside or outside the bracket.

    Cheers al and thanks for the help. Hoping I can get this thing running properly.

  2. #12
    One final question I'm hoping someone could advise on.

    Have you had better results using mixed materials for the support vs part? Or sticking to all one material?

  3. #13
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    OK I have some info.

    The image you requested for the position of the cooling fans is below. I hope it helps. In addition I can also email you a PDF that deals with replacing extruders. Within this (at the end) it deals with aligning the heights of the nozzles/jets. The best thing to do is contact us via our contacts page. Put the subject is as "CubePro Nozzle Height Adjustment". I can then email you a link to the pdf.

    But please remember that we cannot endorse you carrying out repairs or adjustments like this to your machine yourself. The machine is probably still under warranty and so you should enquire with cubifysupport@3DSystems.Com . After all we do not want you to damage your machine or yourself in the process.

    We always appreciate likes, follows, tweets and reviews on Facebook, Twitter and Google+, if you feel inclined.

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  4. #14
    Hi iDig,

    Thanks for the help and thanks very much for the image. I emailed you about the document. I'll see whats involved and decide if I'll just take it on myself. Regarding the cooling fans on the printhead, my printhead is setup exactly like that. Any idea why the side fans are mounted differently for each nozzle? It seems strange to me that one is far and one is close.

    Through troubleshooting I am now very much thinking that the nozzle height difference is the problem. Whatever material I put into nozzle 1 works out fine. But any material I put in nozzle 2 fails, either doesn't stay adhered to the plate or model or doesn't lay down properly.

    Thanks again.

  5. #15
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    Hi BridgeFactory,

    I have sent you a link to the PDF. Remember, you should read the document carefully, including all the safety instructions. Once you have read it you will understand how best to proceed. But, to reiterate a point, if its under warranty and there is an issue you can get 3D systems/Cubify support to repair it. We don't want you injuring yourself or your machine.

    We don't know about the cooling fan position, it could be a functional reason or a design issue. If it is positioned the same then I would suggest that this is how it is supposed to be.

    Let us know how you get on.

  6. #16
    Ive just come accross this post and thought I would add some of my experience with this printer.
    I got this printer for work and we went with this one due to the plug and play nature of the reels and software. I wanted the ultimaker 2 but my boss didnt want me spending all my time playing with the settings!

    At first I was having the same issues as you. Parts would not stick to the tray and dual head extrusions just didnt work - either didnt stick to other layers or the tray. Anyway in the 6 months ive had the printer, ive got a bit better at determining what will and wont work on this machine.

    I mostly do ABS prints and used to also suffer from warping. The best advise I can give is let the glue try, totally. Give it 5 or 10 mins. Secondly, if printing in ABS, pre-heat the chamber well before printing. You can go into settings and get the heater going 30-60 mins before printing and the tray/chamber will be up to temp.
    Basically the time the machine gives for glue and heating is nowhere near long enough to get good prints. I know it adds time but its worth it.

    A raft can help the warping but is very hard to remove from the part and ruins the print, so I never use it now. Ive had pretty good results with the sidewalk feature, only introduced in the 1.38 software. The defaults are 8mm wide, 2 layers thick with 0.25 offset. I sometimes increase the offset to 0.40 to help remove it from the part but have never experimented with perforation, never had to.

    My biggest bugbear with this machine is the support generation - its simply awful. It skips some areas and adds it to places you dont want it and you have zero control over it. I used to use point contact thinking it would be easier to remove. It really doesnt work so only use line contact now. On bigger parts I remove the borders of the support which makes it much easier to remove, but on smaller parts can make the support disappear altogether.

    I am experimenting trying to get kisslsicer to work with the cubepro and there is some activity on the forums with fairly limited success so far due to the closed nature of the system and the build file encryption. For some, the aim is to bypass the proprietry material cartridges, but for me, my only goal is to get better support generation and removal.
    The printer is very capable but is let down by the limited software. I would be happy with the machine if I could bypass the poor slicer they use. The good news is that the firmware and software appears to be in active development so things can only get better with new releases every couple months.

  7. #17
    Hello All

    I have been using the Cubepro single nozzle model for about a year with mixed results. I have had the nozzle clog repeatedly, often in the middle of longer print jobs, which is infuriating since there is no official way to recover the lost job. An unofficial way I am exploring is to restore the nozzle (more on that coming), then subtract the extent of the printed object from the model and re-publish it to the printer, then "trick" the printer into thinking that the top of the current print job is actually the platen surface by making a standoff that is equal to the height of the print's progress and positioning that standoff on the frame member that the microswitch contacts to sense the platen. This has actually worked, though on shut-down the vertical drive is going to run down past the lower limit so that the platform jams against the floor of the machine and you have to use a wrench on the top of the vertical drive screw to unjam it with a mild clockwise torque when it is turned off. Proceed at your own risk, but if it spares you from throwing away 12 hours of printing it can be worth it. Be sure to remove the standoff before the next print.

    About the jamming, I am finding after about a half dozen nozzles, that the teflon liner that guides the filament through the print head immediately before it reaches the heater tip often warps and squeezes the filament so that it stops advancing. Its a pity that this whole sophisticated device can be rendered useless by this obstructing of the filament path by a little tube. But after witnessing this repeatedly I'm pretty sure this is what is happening. I wish one could just stock in the teflon tube instead of ordering a whole new nozzle for $99.

    I just wanted to offer a solution to people whose prints are separating from the platen: if the first centimeter of your object forms a large continuous path, like a 8" diameter cylinder for instance, the contraction of the polymer during setting is going to form hoop stresses that are effectively pull the model inwards. I have had this happen so badly that the upper teflon layer became unglued from its glass backing, or the glass actually cracking. The two solutions I have used is to add a length of channel aluminum to the outside of the four sides. The channel needs an inner dimension of 0.31" to fit over the thickness of the platform. The bumper on the front surface has to be removed on the front edge to accommodate this. This solution is going to cause the shrinkage stresses to remain unresolved, so good adhesion with glue and use of a sidewalk are essential. But another trick, which may not work for your model, is to include vertical notches every few centimeters around the perimeter in the first centimeter of height. This will prevent the hoop stresses in the first centimeter of layers and allow the stresses in the later layers to be resolved by bending the lower layers inwards. I've only used this once so far, but it seemed to work, but of course you might not want to have to fill in notches with epoxy later.

    Last thought: Adhesion is super important, but I have had pieces adhere too well and ended up destroying them in the process of trying to peel them from the platform. The solution I found is to apply a layer of light oil to the cleaned platen every few prints, then apply the cement. Pieces have been peeling off nicely ever since, without debonding during the print.

  8. #18
    I have had a CubePro since March. I have printed many items. I know the users manual backwards and forwards. When the filament does not break or the extruder is not jammed it prints very well. It does depend on the quality of the files. I have had 17 breaks on one cartridge. I have had multiple breaks on one job which makes it very difficult to remove the filament pieces from the tube. I am dealing with another jam right now that may require a new assembly. Libraries to the north and the south of me have different models. They are not having all these problems. Their printers consistently work. I really believe we made a bad choice when we purchased this printer over several other models out there. I do not know how many people I have sent to these other libraries to have something printed because we were dealing with a problem. The CubePro and 3D systems is not highly thought of by the people I send elsewhere. If I ever purchase another printer it will feed directly into the extruder from the roll. It will not go through tubes.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    wow I've only ever had filament breaks if the filament got wrapped round the holder or if it was realy crap white filament (never had any other colour break - but white filament seems to be extra brittle.

    So are you a public library ?
    The idea of a 3d printer in a library seems both weird and strangely appropriate.

    Wonder if there are any libraries in the uk with 3d printers.

  10. #20
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    got no problem with you advertising this gadget robert, as it frankly is something a cube pro owner needs - but don't post the same thing in multiple forum sections :-)

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