the uv is used to cure the individual layers.
It shines thorugh a monochrome lcd plate. Where the plate is clear the resisn sets.
BUT !
The resin is not fully hard. So after printing you...
Type: Posts; User: curious aardvark
the uv is used to cure the individual layers.
It shines thorugh a monochrome lcd plate. Where the plate is clear the resisn sets.
BUT !
The resin is not fully hard. So after printing you...
the washer and curing station look pretty good.
And yes you will need to expose all surfaces to uv light.
So a spin in the curer one way up and then another spin the other way up :-)
No clue...
that's really good for 3d printed abs.
I've had pla parts outside for a around 6 years - but they just sit in the english weather and aren't really stressed much.
Abs doesn't really like being...
neat idea :-)
I'll have a look.
your best bet is probably abs and use acetone smoothing.
polymaker also make a pla type filament that can be smoothd. But it's a more expensive solvent.
If the 3d45 isn't fully enclosed - it...
well as a rule pet-g is far more chemical resistant than abs.
what are you using that attacks pet-g ?
@gambo - ABS at 100mm/s - now that's impressive !
And yeah there are a LOT of...
well roll me in treacle and call me a waffle - the wifi module arrived today !
9 days from china - could be some kind of record :-)
No sign of the bluetooth adaptors though, they might end up...
So I guess the flashforge if you don't mind tinkering and the raise 3d if you just want it to work.
I have seen a lot of positive reviews for the creator 3 - but there are also a number of...
so that's good.
But get more as it will be used.
I can't find any reference to it having a built in curing facility though. But all you need for that is a large box and a cheap uv illuminator. ...
you're definitely going down the right route.
IDEX is definitely the way to go for dual extrusion.
we do have a member who had issues on his creator 3 - trying to remember what he ended up...
no to all your points :-)
I updated firmware - as original was corrupt.
I printed a bracket to convert it to direct drive and I desinged a filament holder.
And I fitted a sheet f pei to print...
you'd also need to make sure the acetone didn't dissolve the mould.
You could probably use a porous mould made from plaster.
But it would probably be hard to remove it.
And you'd need to...
well to start with for a printer that size - you need at least 10mm smooth and threaded rod, for a cartesian I'd go for 12mm.
Those are long rods carrying a fair bit of weight.
A skr 1.4...
well labists sell two printers an et4 and a mini x1.
Both look to have bed levelling knobs - so you should be good there.
The onbly one with 'auto-levelling' is the et4 - so well assume that's...
I've used a lot of flashforge pla - their old red filament (semi-translucent) is just about the best filament I've ever used.
Never had abs settings on a roll of pla though.
that's just weird. ...
well if it's cura based - it will be mm only.
It's dutch - they don't do inches.
Nobody in their right minds still does inches.
And if you ask a question that does not have the answer you...
well the first thing is to STOP modelling in inches and switch the the far more sensible millimetres :-)
It really does make a lot more sense than going in the other direction.
Most slicers only...
the multi purpose rotary tools just generate too much friction for pla.
The little battery powered engravers (I bought mine from a local hardware shop for £1.50) just doesn't have the oomph to...
lotmax is on kickstarter - so not available to actually buy.
And it looks ,like a bog standard ender 3 clone - so best to avoid anyway.
The biggest issue with prusa - is availability.
Josef...
well I'd switch from cura to prusaslicer - I know there's an option to manually place supports on that - plus it's just better :-)
As far as cad goes - I pretty much only design practical things,...
well the only place I can see that might need supports is the inside of the hood at the top.
You might find that the model actually doesn't need supports at all.
Also for complex models print...
lol you can't go wrong witha baby yoda at the moment :-)
you migh want to look at pet-g, rather than abs,
If it's for 'click together' joints then pet-g is way way better than abs. For...
also what temps, speeds, printer - the more information you give the better we can advise you.
recommended bed setting is 85c for abs - but as cliff shows - each machine and setup is unique.
The ideakl bed temp is often the glass temp. So the point that filament begins to soften enough to...
well I can't see any obvious reasons not to buy it.
Some of the reviews look a little bit suspect.
Translation software clearly used on several of them.
The couple of obviously genuine reviews...