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should be absolutely fine.

polyurethane is uv and chemical resistant to a pretty impressive degree.
As long as oyu print the gaskets solid, should be ideal :-)

think you've pretty m uch answered your own question.

At a speed as slow as 60mm/s yeah infill squares that size are going to make a difference.

Never heard it called 'pillowing' before - but...

hmm - give us a ball park set of figures.

ie: max budget and min budget.

'cos off tyhe top of my head the best printer I've ever seen was a metal printer that comes in at nearly a million...

bear in mind the 300% is assuming you are using 0.1mm layer height.
If you make the layer taller, remember to adjust the initial layer height accordingly.

You never want to go over 0.4mm.
So...

or just link here, we don;t mind links to 3d printers :-)

It's actually a $79 dollar printer :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlyRrMbV25w

so, guessing no heated bed ?

What you can do is...

lol, so what have you done to it ?

Looks like a corexy - my favourite current design in fdm printers.

well that's the surface a raft always leaves.

So don't use rafts :-)

What printer is it ?

I mean, there are only two things that can go wrong with the hotend, and you've changed one already :-)
So odds are good it's the other one.

where's the update ?

To be honest, I rarely use the actual program now as the thumnails work for most of what I need :-)

But definitely interested to see what you come up with next !

Hmm, well if you grip the heatblock at the wrong place when changing the nozzle, you can damage the wires for the heater cartridge and the thermistor.

So change the heater cartridge as well.

Yep, mechanical issue.

Most 3d printer problems are mechanical in origin.

Although not according to youtube lol

Not that youtubers have a vested interest in selling hardware, of course not...

print settings usually consist of outlines, top and bottom layers and infill.

I usually use 3 outlines, 3 top and 3 bottom layers.

But for somethings a single outline works better.

You...

how many outlines are you using ?

Harness ? I know you're a spambot - but what on earth are you trying to sell ?

hmm, have you checked the design file ?

It genuinely looks like two faces, an outline and a cutout.

Particularly seeing how offset it is from the cutout and how universal.

Even if it was...

3d scanners are amazing - as long as you have very deep pockets indeed.

The 'cheap' ones aimed at hobby 3d print enthusiasts, are largely - useless for anything requiring proper accuracy.

The...

probably a spammer, but no links I can find.

I find with pla, the gentle appliction of a rubber mallet often overcomes inflexibility.

Unless you actually want to take it apart again - then,...

weird, is it thomas ?

prusa slicer can't hurt.

surprised you don't have simplify3d.

Definitely not something I've ever had.

It's a tree frog - supposed to have rings ;-)

what temps and speeds have you tried ?

Also - have you tried slicing with a different slicer.

And does it stick on a different model ?

Also consider mounting the extruder on the hotend...

try a different slicer.
prusaslicer is a good place to start.

Also check extrusion settings. Most printers work accurately best at somewhere between 85-95 % extrusion ratio.
Then there's...

Hmm.

It all depends on how it connects to the printer.
Go to your local store and ask them if you can take a picture of the units connector - where it plugs into the printer.

And then see...

no - you NEED supports under the chin.

The angle is just too steep to print without supports.
:-)

sometimes using a thinner layer setting can help with this kind of thing, As the thinner the...

I'd say your calibration is off.

Unless you change the bed levelling nuts to nylock locking nuts, this is going to be a permament and ongoing issue.
The bl touch won't make any differece...

yep, and you did not mention either the thermistor or the heater cartridge in your original post.

Just the extruder, not the hot end.

As for what the extruder is.
I doubt it has an official...