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Type: Posts; User: Alibert

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  1. No, I experienced skipped steps in the extruder...

    No, I experienced skipped steps in the extruder (not enough plastic pushed out creating holes, bad fills, sometimes no plastic pushed out at all) and skipped steps in the X or Y directions (layers...
  2. I have had similar problems in 3 of my printers...

    I have had similar problems in 3 of my printers over the past months after long periods of heavy use. This was the extruder under-extruding (missing steps as I found out) on one printer, and the X or...
  3. Could be the cable from the driver to the...

    Could be the cable from the driver to the stepper. I have had similar things happening on a couple of my printers after prolonged use (X or Y steppers, or extruder steppers) which were resolved by...
  4. Looking at what you found, I notice that it...

    Looking at what you found, I notice that it doesn't have a heated bed as far as I can see. That means PLA only, forget the other filament types. And difficult to keep it firmly on the print bed,...
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    S3D has a steep price and it is often debated...

    S3D has a steep price and it is often debated whether it is worth the money or not. Considering the fact that the company is in business for quite a few years, one can conclude that either it really...
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    I agree with the above two answers. 105 C for PLA...

    I agree with the above two answers. 105 C for PLA is way-way-way too high. The glass transition point (the temperature at which it gets gooey) is 58-65 C for PLA. At 105 the lower layers will be so...
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    Luck is not what you need, just some common...

    Luck is not what you need, just some common sense...

    Actually, lots of people use chloroform to glue perspex parts together, both amateurs and professionals. Just do it in a well ventilated area....
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    This guy has done some research in that area:...

    This guy has done some research in that area: http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=68

    It is the methylene-chloride (dichloromethane) in the Weld#5 mix that does the trick. In labs we use it to dissolve...
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    Should be. PET-G is a modified version of PET...

    Should be. PET-G is a modified version of PET (the stuff water/lemonade bottles are made of).

    As polymer it will be just as safe as a bottle for mineral water or soft drinks. The additives...
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    Which slicer??? There are tons of them out...

    Which slicer??? There are tons of them out there...
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    I have two printers with Micro-Swiss all metal...

    I have two printers with Micro-Swiss all metal upgrade kits for MK10 type cooling blocks which work very fine. I use them for high temperature printing in the 260-360 C range (polycarbonate and PEI)....
  12. Thread: Simplify3D

    by Alibert
    Replies
    36
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    58,208

    The scarring depends on the type of plastic, PETG...

    The scarring depends on the type of plastic, PETG is really bad, PLA a bit better and ABS the best of all.
    In the support tab you can specify how many layers to leave free between support and part....
  13. Thread: Filament Dryer

    by Alibert
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    13,059

    I totally agree with you on all points....

    I totally agree with you on all points. Increasing the temperature only increases the maximum water content the air can hold (so may give you some more headroom if the ambient is near 100% RH), and...
  14. Thread: Filament Dryer

    by Alibert
    Replies
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    13,059

    I also use vacuum drying and built my own...

    I also use vacuum drying and built my own vacuum-oven (heated-temperature regulated and with vacuum down to 1 mbar now with new dual-stage rotary pump). By reducing the vacuum to sufficiently low...
  15. Popping usually indicates that the filament needs...

    Popping usually indicates that the filament needs drying. When extuding, is the extruded filament smooth or rough when you run it (cooled) between your fingers?
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    For PLA you would typically use temperatures in...

    For PLA you would typically use temperatures in the range of 190-210 Celsius. Printing speeds of 40 mm/s to start with is a good guess. Depending on results you can tweak either temperature or speed....
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    What type of filament are you using, and what...

    What type of filament are you using, and what settings?

    As to the clicking/clumping output, it points to a partially clogged nozzle. Order a new one and install it, and most likely your problems...
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    What is not working? Most likely it is just a...

    What is not working? Most likely it is just a clogged nozzle (replace it with a spare for a few dollars) or a clogged gear (clean it for free)?

    Can you hear a clicking sound? Does the hot-end...
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    I think he means that glass is cheap and you...

    I think he means that glass is cheap and you don't even have to wait ten minutes....
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    For the record, it is not blue tape he is using,...

    For the record, it is not blue tape he is using, but a double-sided adhesive tape (adhesive on both sides) as used for sticking name-plates permanently to walls etc. Just google it and be astounded
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    Well, that is your problem then. The acrylic...

    Well, that is your problem then. The acrylic adhesive on the top side (your printed part) will stick very strongly even at room temperature or below. I am flabbergasted why anyone would suggest that...
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    What is you bed material?

    What is you bed material?
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    Do you let the bed cool off to room temperature...

    Do you let the bed cool off to room temperature before prying them off?

    I print on glass with 3DLac (hairspray). When cooling, the parts pop off by themselves. I just have to wait approx 15-25...
  24. This is a piece of cake in Netfabb (Basic). ...

    This is a piece of cake in Netfabb (Basic).

    Import the part (Menu:Project->add part), use the menu at the lower right (sliders) to select where to cut in x,y,z direction. Then cut the selected...
  25. Thread: Best Adhesion?

    by Alibert
    Replies
    40
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    24,964

    With an enclosed replicator-1 clone (Qidi tech) I...

    With an enclosed replicator-1 clone (Qidi tech) I measured a plateau value of around 40-45 C inside the printer when printing at 100 C bed and 230 C nozzle. Reaching 108C in the FFCP seems like a...
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