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You're not "one of the 10", you're a beta backer. (like harpo99999)

same here, chayat.... but then, we 10 weren't beta testers - we were just supposed to work out any kinks in the final product. AFAICT, the only people in that list of 10 that got their kits were the...

If you were in the states, this would be a good source:
http://jtechphotonics.com/?product=445nm-laser-shielding
Not sure about France though. You should find a local plexiglass/cast acrylic sheet...

Does it need certification because it's packaged as a complete printer instead of as a kit? Because I've had 2w laser diodes and drivers shipped to me, but customs never intercepts them (Ymmv, the...

Yeah, I'm still waiting too, apparently US Customs needs more disclaimers or certifications on the lasers.

You should use Cura.
Cura has a lot of settings, luckily gavin has a thread over on the official forums on what settings to use.

@mike, this looks like a bug with the kivy framework.
see https://github.com/kivy/kivy/issues/3576

it looks like v1.9.1 introduced this bug, if peachy compiles the windows version with 1.9.0, it...

I've also been selected as one of the 10 v1 beta tester kits, so we can compare notes, Compro01 :)

If you're interested, the white paper referenced is available here

hmm.. if you cant flame the wire, there's always the molten caustic soda method, but thats pretty dangerous - take some sodium hydroxide (powder) and mix it 4:1 with some non-iodized table salt, then...

based on the size of the rocket that you said you could print 900 of.... i'm going to say 3500 props.

When dealing with enamel coated wire, I've always found it is easiest to just burn the enamel off the end with a lighter... then gently sand the burned area to expose bare copper. Of course if the...

@dezi, that's for the kickstarter, I think rylan is talking about the "preorders" that were processed through the web site (post kickstarter)

I usually use barbed fittings and worm gear hose clamps. I'm not sure if zip ties will provide enough pressure.

You might try some braided vinyl tubing. The stuff I have is rated for 250 psi.

I had assumed you'd be using something similar to this with a photointerrupter to determine absolute position. it'd add a bit of mass and a bit of cost, but might be worth it for the accuracy... a...

Drat.... so even something like gcode sender won't work? I'm not really digging the idea of having to leave a full computer on running the printer.

any close up images of that new board? also - will this be able to be driven by a chromebook?

Stop using photoshop for vector work and start using illustrator. (or inkscape, if that's what floats your boat)
Photoshop is primarily a raster program, with limited vector capability.
Illustrator...

Yeah, I now retract all defense of them. Criticize away. They had their chance to deliver on their promises, they've failed.

The side cut shows the reason for the holes. In that spot, your mesh overlapped itself. (self intersecting non-manifold geometry) think of a Klein bottle.

sounds like your limit switch is wired up backwards.

hmmm.. did you fix this oddity ?
http://i.imgur.com/RdFHEwO.png <top
http://i.imgur.com/b2ziH9o.png <bottom
http://i.imgur.com/FUG1nAV.png <side (cut away)

check to see if your filament is wound in such a way that it is snagging - try different filament is that is the case.

erm... you might get better results if you use the term "threaded" bolt instead of "threated" bolt.