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Type: Posts; User: LuckyImperial

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  1. Replies
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    Currently I'm only testing G33, which is having...

    Currently I'm only testing G33, which is having trouble. See my attached .zip file for my configs. I may have missed something.11597
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    Hey Roxy, I downloaded Marlin 2.0 again...

    Hey Roxy,

    I downloaded Marlin 2.0 again recently to see if UBL had improved and unfortunately I was unable to replicate my success with G33 auto calibration. It homes, travels down to the bed at a...
  3. This video may be helpful: ...

    This video may be helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubZMG_1PK20
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    Most electronics (you probably have a...

    Most electronics (you probably have a RAMPS+Aruino) are capable of 12v or 24v, with the majority being 12v. What voltage are the fans on the system, that will tell you which voltage you are using....
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    Well, that's definitely a firmware issue, which...

    Well, that's definitely a firmware issue, which is tough because the fix is a little beyond what the average consumer is capable of. Was this printer an assembled, or was it a kit? Where did you buy...
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    Test of Marlin 2.0.x - Good Results

    I have a Kossel printer that uses a Re-ARM board with RAMPS and a Viki 2 display. Although Smoothieware performed well in all of my prints I didn't like the lack of LCD menu options. I started...
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    After some time using Marlin 1.1.4 here is my pro...

    After some time using Marlin 1.1.4 here is my pro con list compared to Repteier 0.92.9:

    Pros:
    Autoleveling/Autocalibration works quite well.
    Buffer management helps out with complex g-code and...
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    10753 File is attached above. This gives me a...

    10753

    File is attached above. This gives me a functional LCD.
  9. Replies
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    Well, I think so. The manual provided by Panucatt...

    Well, I think so. The manual provided by Panucatt has the RAMPS pins defined, and the default ones weren't correct.

    Look at the last page:...
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    Okay, I'm up and running. I don't have my FSR Kit...

    Okay, I'm up and running. I don't have my FSR Kit installed so I haven't done any auto calibration but even with my manual calibration it's printing quite well. So far no skipping with my 8bit...
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    Update (Resolved): Okay first, I had...

    Update (Resolved):

    Okay first, I had uncommented both #define VIKI2 and #define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2, but realized I only needed to uncomment #define VIKI2. This changed my issue from #include...
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    Marlin 1.1.4 w/ Viki2 LCD on RAMPS

    Alright Roxy, I'm giving Marlin 1.1.4 a shot, but I'm having issues getting the code to compile with my somewhat unique Panucatt Viki2 LCD.


    Arduino: 1.8.3 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino/Genuino...
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    It's quite a few pages, but I walked another user...

    It's quite a few pages, but I walked another user through his Repetier firmware delta calibration here:

    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?16961-I-need-some-serious-help
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    I highly recommend OnShape. It's free, intuitive,...

    I highly recommend OnShape. It's free, intuitive, browser based (don't need a fancy computer or install), and provides tons of tutorials for new users. The only con is that your designs are public....
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    Your assumptions are correct. 3D conversion of...

    Your assumptions are correct. 3D conversion of complicated 2D features (faces) are very difficult.

    If I'm not mistaken, there are a few android/apple apps that provide rudimentary 3D scanning. It...
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    It's very slightly textured, but I think smooth...

    It's very slightly textured, but I think smooth is a better overall description. I can vouch for both the RT and HT plates, but the RT plate does seem to work a little better than the HT, at least...
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    I've been using GekoTek with pretty consistent...

    I've been using GekoTek with pretty consistent results. Some prints still need a brim, but its a lot better than when I tried PEI.
  18. I buy PushPlastic since it's the most inexpensive...

    I buy PushPlastic since it's the most inexpensive Nature Works PLA I can find.
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    Unfortunately every slicer is different. I assume...

    Unfortunately every slicer is different. I assume you're using slic3r, which I believe has a pretty obvious way to accomplish what you're asking for:
    ...
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    Ideally the firmware of your printer should be...

    Ideally the firmware of your printer should be configured so that 100 is typical.

    I print at 100 unless I'm doing 60mm/s prints (typically I do 35mm/s), in which I usually jack up my temps +10C...
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    Yeah, that's already a pretty slow printing...

    Yeah, that's already a pretty slow printing speed. I agree that a reduced flow will help. Try 80% flow.

    Another variable you may factor in is temperature. If your temps are too high your nozzle...
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    Sticky: +1 for OnShape. Great, free, SolidWorks like...

    +1 for OnShape. Great, free, SolidWorks like alternative that I highly recommend.
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    Unfortunately you'll have a hard time getting an...

    Unfortunately you'll have a hard time getting an accurate temperature relative to the thermistor that's inserted into the heat block. The surface of the heaterblock is quite a bit cooler than the...
  24. Your printer looks to be suffering from a...

    Your printer looks to be suffering from a slipping belt or gear on one of the X or Y axis motors. It could also be an undervolted motor (less likely).

    You could try repairing it on your own by...
  25. If you send me the file, provided through...

    If you send me the file, provided through dropbox, google drive or whatever, I can convert it to an STL for you.

    Edit: Well, I check the thread again tomorrow when I get back to work but I'm...
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