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Aardvark, did you try pushing the filament through manually till it extrudes? If not - do try, and post results. You want to compare the force you have to push filament through to extrude between...

Congrats guys on getting this to work :)
Bobbler, great link, thanks! Gonna upgrade printers.

You can actually push above 60mm/s, even well into 80-90s. Set the temp to 250-260 degC, and play...

I'm really hyped about Repetier offering an adaptive bed distortion compensation. Lets you make a height matrix of the bed and during the print it moves the bed in Z axis to compensate for any...

I assume you got one of the Creators.
Beds on these tend to distort with temperature, so if you preheat to 120 it's good to recalibrate.

I would also advise to remove one of the springs from...

Had identical thing, never identified it. It stopped after a while. This printer is like a violin with string randomization function, you never know what sounds it's gonna make tomorrow :P

Several things may happen.

1. burnt plastic residue in printhead. This happens if you leave PLA for too long preheated, used poor quality filament, or preheated to excessive temperatures. I vote...

I was talking from experience :) I mean, I did print a lot of Ninjaflex on Creator. It worked brilliantly, did dual materials too.

You got to make sure the motors are aligned perfectly with the...

Dreamer accepts Gcode. It's much quieter and sturdier, has a lot of fans for cooling stuff (head and case). Doors seem easy to break out accidentally. Case is plastic. Looks like a laboratory machine...

Solved the problem.

It turned out one of the screws on the power-in on the motherboard went loose from vibration. Increased resistance fried the connector. Replaced connector, retightened screws,...

The issue with the spring loaded filament motor is that it presses the filament too tightly, teeth cut in, and can pull it out of the head (that's what she said). Another thing is the hydraulic...

Geoff,
Hehe, yeah, conning on kickstarter... weren't they about to take away the moderation completely? This will breed some nice scams X)

Sounds like a cool plan. Do you consider using a large...

Whoa :O

I've never printed things that large from Nylon, but I used to un-tension ABS parts mid-print. I used a hairdryer to rapidly raise the temperature of the whole model and chamber, to make...

You have complete control over that in makerware. You can even change raft parameters, layers, speeds and everything. Temperature settings are kinda flimsy, from my experience printer tends to stop...

I did mod my flashforge to glass once, used silicone as binder, but the heat transfer was terrible.

I think I prefer the kapton+alu, though I did work with glass on a reprap and it was pretty...

Yeah, I did get a correct x3g via gpx from Slic3r. It did get printed off-center (off-bed actually, I stuck a piece of cardboard under it when I saw what's happening). Was using recent Slic3r for...

Whoa, that's some serious warping then. Did you try printing the nylon in a heated chamber? Improvising something quickly to close the printer, so that the build chamber heats up to 30-40 degC, to...

I never print with rafts and no issues with model unsticking, but then again, I never use pure Kapton :)

I use either office glue like UHU Stick or dissolved PVA. For ABS (which I slowly abandon...

It is the original wooden caveman version :) The dual extruder plywood one.

Check alignment of belts and pulleys. From my experience, they tend to get misaligned with use, if you see torn rubber from belt on the pulleys, there's a chance that they are the source of the...

Whoa, cool! Talk about overkill ;D

Which printer did you get?

Hi guys,
I have a problem with my Creator (and it's not a religious matter ;) )

When I heat up any of the heads, the printer suddenly drops voltage with rising temperature (so it seems; did not...

Geoff,
The Mankati guys are an Ultimaker ripoff, they have issues with delivery and service. I heard bad things about them. Pity, because the printer looks impressive (though haven't seen it IRL)....

You need to convert the Gcode to x3g with this little tool:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81425
This little program called GPX will do the trick, but it's a command line tool. It kind of works...

Yeah, never leaving your Flashforge unattended is a wise thing. The power supply section on the mobo has issues, there was at least one report of them catching fire, mine fried the power supply...

I am printing with Taulmann nylons a lot, both 618 and 645. UHU stick office glue works best directly on kapton, and PVA solution seems to be OK too.

YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER TO PRE-DRY THEM...