Very nice.
Printable View
Very nice.
Hit first bump last night.
one of the stepper motors has stopped working in one direction.
Hoping it's just a dodgy plug or wire. Going to dismantle and check today.
Does explain a couple things. The first print was amazing, but they've been going downhill since then.
This looks like why, obviously been gradually starting to fail since that first print.
More later.
hey thats a clothespin spring.....
It sort of is. But smaller and easier to fit.
These are specifically designed fior the 6mm gt2 timing belts.
But, yep basically the same design :-)
So after checking cables, swapping cables and testing, I'm 100% certain I have a dead stepper motor, well terminally ill anyway. It tries to turn but there's just no oomph there. It will bring the carriage down, but not up. And I'm pretty sure it started to die immediately after my first print.
Changing over connections on the board makes no difference (well it confuses the hell out of it as the wrong endstops are being hit) so it's not the stepper controller or the cable.
Sigh. Given that they are the most awkward part to fit, it bloody would be wouldn't it.
What do these things cost ?
***
Well that was interesting. https://www.amazon.co.uk/XCSOURCE-4-...=stepper+motor
1 stepper motor was £9.99 with amazon prime next day delivery (which i have)
Promotion, buy 2 get 1 free. So I bought 2.
Get to checkout and total cost is £5.99 - makes no sense, but I am not arguing :-)
So that's £5.99 for TWO stepper motors and I should get them tomorrow.
Attachment 10575
I am so looking forward to fitting it - NOT !
:-)
It's also the motor on the x axis and all my prints have been mirror reversed on the x-axis.
Wondering if the thing could somehow have been causing that as well.
Guess I will find out.
Hmm, wonder if I should get another couple - at that price it seems almost daft not to.
I'll wait to see if they fit and work first I think.
Those belt tensioners are brilliant, hacked straight out of the mainstream production line
So if you think your stepper motor has died, there is a check list.
Check the cables, check the motherboard.
Oh and be very very sure that you check the grub screws on the hobbed bolt have not worked loose Attachment 10578
Because the last thing you want is to dismantle the printer and have that lightbulb moment when you've spent the best part of an hour removing the mounting bolts and the motor tilts and the hobbed bolt just slides off by itself.
I didn't actually swear, but I did call myself a pillock, among other things :-)
Have you ever tried to straighten an alan key with nothing but a small hammer and gator grip pliers (go back to that hour thing above) ?
It's pretty much the only way you can get at the motor bolts without a total frame dismantle.
So hey at least i now have a specialist tool to remove the motors.
the other thing to bear in mind is that stepper motors pretty much NEVER fail. So if you have a dodgy motor, make bloody sure before you start taking things apart :-)
On the other hand I have three machines, with 14 motors between them - couple of really cheap spares can't hurt, so given what they cost - I'm not bothered about that.
And the learning curve for this build extends that little bit more.
Yes I have made sure the bolts on the other two motors are bloody tight.
I guess the belt tensioners were the last straw . I think I didn't have it seated 100% on the flat part of the motor shaft, so it gradually slid down. It was obviously slipping when that carriage was low and the belt was under extra tension. Which explains the results I was getting
So now I've made damn sure that's what the issue was (all three now working perfectly) I'm going to take the belt back off and try and get the other two holding bolts back in.
After all this the bloody thing better start printing like the original print again !
Still got that hammer handy ;-)
Spent the last few years telling people to double check the mechanicals and simple stuff before assuming it's something more complicated. Just goes to prove I know what I'm talking about - just need to listen every once in a while :-)
Right, finally got everything back together and we're printing again.
Decided to do the same part at the same settings that I did the first print.
Fingers crossed it comes out the same.
If it does - I can go back a week and start again seeing just how fast she will print :-)
Also see how she works with different slicers and if she will print with polyflex. That will be slow, but might work. Also start costing up a vertical extension.
Also need to try more than one thing at a time, get full plate calibration sorted, sort a print area cooling fan, etc etc :-)
Oh yeah. As the little motor mounting bolts were such a bastard to fit. I ended up using a couple of longish cdrom mounting screws. Fit perfectly and sooo much easier to fit with a long thin crosshead screwdriver.
Right that's looking pretty good.
I need food !
Simplify3d has caused me a couple issues, that I've now either fixed or found a work around.
So, things I've noticed:
Bowden setup doesn't seem to make any difference, works really well, I got zero stringing when printing multiple parts - s3d just won't do sequential printing, which is annoying, but as there's no stringing. Not a big issue.
One thing that has surprised me is how well she prints without a print area cooling fan.
I'm getting cleaner prints than the flashforge. I think the fact that there's more natural airflow and a consistent air gap round the part being printed is having almost as much of a cooling effect as the fan on the flashforge.
I'm printing twice as fast with cleaner results.
Prints require a lot less stick to stay stuck.
What i mean is that as the delta has almost no vibration and the head can't catch on anything, prints that would have worked free over time on the makerbot clones, just work. So not only can she print a lot faster and make larger prints, but I've so far had zero adhesion issues and I'm using a lot less 'smush' on the first later. I think the polyflex feet might have also added a little vibration damping.
Which means I can print more intricate items without worrying about the first layer fusing.
I know the printbite is expensive. But it genuinely takes all the hassle out of 3d printing as far as prints staying stuck goes.
Running it at 50c for pla and 60c for pet-g. As it requires a lot less stick than the flashforge, I can use lower temperatures without any issues.
Also had no warp. And on the parts I'm printing I have had a little on the makerbot clones, when I didn't use smush and a brim. On the delta I can print the same parts without a brim and with almost no smush.
Just love this machine :-)
Decided I'm going to design and print a bolt on base plate to replace the cardboard and sellotape.
That'll be a real test as it'll need to print thin edge down to get the full size in one print. Also going to see about putting perforations in for some extra airflow.
That'll be a fairly impressive print. pics when i've done it :-)
For whst its worth, and you may already know this company, check out misumi.com lots of mechanical components... good prices
I will have a look.
But these days I generally buy most things from amazon. Good choice and decent prices and I have amazon prime - so next day delivery as standard, even at weekends.
Just having a go at the base plate.
160mm wide at the base by 4mm deep, 224mm high and tapering to 50mm at the top.
No raft or brim :-)
There's no way I'd ever try and print something like this on the makerbot clones. certainly not without a serious brim. It would definitely try and warp. Plus only 150 mm build height.
I have no clue if it will work.
But I have faith in her :-)
The lack of vibration, or any of the general rattle and hum you get with the makerbot, makes all sorts of things possible I'd never dream of trying on the makerbot clones.
Looking good. It'll bolt into the extrusion slot at the wide end and I'll make a bracket to hold it in at the narrow end.
Ah - I forgot the ventilation holes !
Bugger - have to start again :-)
Crude but effective - looks like mutant swiss cheese:
Attachment 10606
interested in seeing how this turns out. ever think of videoing the plate build?
you must be psychic.
I'm doing a timelapse on this print even as I type :-)
Got about an hour to go - looking pretty scary.
Very very thin and lots of under and overhangs in the holes.
I can't see any stringing, but then I'm not going that near. Don't want to disturb either the camera or the printer.
Got to admit I'm seriously impressed with the hotend, extruder and the bowden setup.
The extruder is about as basic as it gets: three pieces of metal and a spring.
One of the things about this printer I really like is that you can see everything working.
I am still printing at 0.3mm, 210c and 90mm/s max print speed. S3d tends to apply lots of different criteria to print, so you rarely print anything at full speed.
That said - it's 747 layers in 200 minutes.
That's pretty good going by any standards :-)
I did also apply a small amount of 'smoosh'. But I didn't wimp out and use a brim :-)
At 90% and definite slight wobble - I genuinely can't watch lol
Attachment 10607
Well i came back into the workshop for the last 1%.
This is genuinely the most impressive thing I've yet to see an fdm printer do !
Attachment 10608
Attachment 10609
Fitted. Ended up with a bolt into the frame at the wide end and as that was pretty tight, I just used a plastic coated wire tie at the other end. Gathered the cables in the center below the motherboard and loosely held them with another tie (obviously, i did that first). They're just as effective as cable ties, but can be easily undone and redone.
Attachment 10610
Attachment 10611
And I believe that is the last piece of the puzzle :-)
Looking at it I could have made the wide part wider and the narrow end wide enough so stick a frame bolt in as well. Maybe at some point in the distant future I'll print a wider one. For now I'm more than happy with what I've got.
Now as I bought the heated plate and that attaches with three long bolts.
Printbite comes with a self adhesive backing. Should i need the glass for some reason, a couple of bulldog clips will easily do the job.
So the seven short bolts and frame nuts that should have held the glass plate to the frame, weren't needed.
I used 2 on the filament holder, 2 on the psu mounts and 1 on the baseplate. I still have 2 spare :-)
And can we hear some applause for Printbite as well.
Stayed stuck, despite the slight wobble when it got tall !
So, yes if you are building a delta - Printbite IS worth the money.
And at the end of the day is £30 a lot for something that will last as long as the printer and means you never have to use tape, glue, sprays, scrapers or any of that other crap most of you deal with every day :-)
Right off to have a play with the timelapse video.
Yep.
Printbite does give good stick. But it's mainly down to the lack of vibration on the delta. On some of the outlines between the holes you could see a tiny bit of wobble once it had some height.
If I ever print another one, it'll be wider at both ends and I'll probably use a brim :-)
Impressive as it was, it was pretty nervewracking towards the end !
Got to see if I can mount the camera on the frame somewhere. Loved the way the filament spool was spinning round.
Didn't help that it started early evening and went through to just after it got dark, so i lost the natural light.
Very nice. :)
Hyrel definitely needs to make a delta.
Fewer parts to go wrong, larger build volumes made cheaper.
Much more fun to watch and nobody has done one with lots of interchangeable heads yet. :-)
Couple on kickstarter with a laser head and one that seems to have vanished that also claimed to have a built in 3d scanner.
If I can find the software to convert a black and white image and produce the gcode to drive the laser, I'm pretty sure I can bolt the 1000mw laser from my tiny engraver onto the print head. Already got a power socket on the motherboard labelled: 'laser'.
It's worth a think anyway :-)
My thingiverse page with the mod files on.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2386628
That print was super impressive...
If I were you (and I'm not) and had that printer and idea (which I dont) and had the guts to print that and walk away (which I dont) here is what I would have done...
instead of being flat, I would have given it a wavy profile (like cardboard innards) instead of a straight profile. would be much more rigid also.
I love it!!!! I am rethinking this printer now... wavering this or the prusa style from folgertec.......
it'sa flat 4mm sheet that's just there to hold the cables off the ground.
Strength isn't an issue. I could just have easily made the majority 2mm, and used a brim.
I only used 4mm because that's the ideal thickness for the short bolts and strut nuts (that phrase just sounds so rude: 'strut nuts') to be easy to fit and get a real good grip without the end of the bolt touching the back of the channel. And I didn't think anything thinner would print like that.
I've got two cartesian style printers and until I got this machine I thought they were pretty impressive. This delta blows them out of the water, both for speed and quality and build size.
It's also a lot less complicated with fewer parts. So in the long run ought to be more reliable.
And if something does go wrong, it's much easier to see what and why.
I've clearly detailed all the issues I had and mods the kit needs.
Which amount to not much.
Would I buy another delta ?
In a heart beat ! lol
I'm also rethinking whether to make alexa larger: 3x 1 meter struts, 10metre roll of gt2 belt and some connectors to splice in longer cables. That would give me around a 2 foot build height. which with the 1.75m filament is realistically all you can expect the bowden setup to do, and I don't want to start buying 3mm filament alongside 1.75.
My other thought is to buy another complete kit and the extra expansion parts and just build the larger machine from scratch.
The other mod I did, which I'm not sure I've covered. I made a power cable with an inline switch - took about 5 minutes and £3 for the switch. Used an old computer power cable.
One of the things this kit doesn't come with is an on/off switch.
So I'd recommend you make your own.
Now none of the extras and mods are difficult - but add it all together and I still think it puts this kit out of bounds for complete beginners.
I will also detail how I level the heat bed at some point. The z probe is pretty much useless.
You need a small phillips screwdriver and digital calipers.
I've been mostly doing it by eye and experience, but I will write up a standardised method at some point. It's much much easier then playing with the z probe and messing about with numbers and plate tilt modelling.
If you simply make the plate level and zero z in the centre, you don't need to bother with all the complicated and clever stuff.
Excellent! I thought you were mounting something to it other than cables. Now you got me swaying toward the delta.. As for skill, it would be my first one but I am not worried. I've been doing mechanical design work for 20 years and I can hold my own when it comes to getting my hands dirty..
turned this
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd1c898d1.jpg
into this
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0xcdkc0l.jpg
:p
I'll be following your progress with this machine and I hop you continue as I find it entertaining and very informative!
-Mark
yes but just pm wendy and give her your email address, she'll send it to you.
Actually I'll stick it on my thingiverse page. Print it fairly dense and make sure you get zero warp.
There ya go. It's on my k200 page.
Oh yeah I also enlarged it by 1% and the bolt holes were pretty much bang on. Tight, but you could still turn the bolt to engage the hexagonal nut.
He3d had actually drilled their holes after printing. So I figured a little extra room was probably needed :-)
Now I am currently super excited and there's nobody here I can tell who will understand why !!!!
She WILL PRINT FLEXIBLES !!!!!!!!
Yes she will :-)))))))))))))
So I started easy with polyflex.
20mm/s - ha !
I topped out at 60mm/s - no problem.
That is to say I stopped testing at 60 - there was no obvious difference in print quality between the 20 and 60 print.
On the makerbot clones 30-40 is as fast as I can print polyflex.
Yep the bowden printer prints flexibles FASTER than the direct drive machines. Ain't life grand :-)
I'm currently printing with filaflex, is she bothered ? Not my Alexa !
Currently printing trolley tokens as they weigh about 1/3 of a gram but show precision quite well.
So 20mm/s 235c - unheated bed. 0.3mm layer height.
Yep :-) No problem !
going to skip 30 and head straight for the heady heights of 40mm/s !
here we go....
Just to put this into perspective I have never been able to print filaflex or ninjaflex on my makerbot clones. But because there are no gaps anywhere in the feed system on Alexa where the filament can bend or get tangled. the only way it can go is out the extruder. I have the top feed tube right down to the hobbed bolt and the teflon tube I actually sanded slightly so that it actually goes a tiny way into the feed tube.
Attachment 10628
Okay 40mm/s is looking a bit 'ruff'.
So that's fine. I reckon she'll do 25-30 without any problems.
That said the final token doesn't look awful. But I'll stick to 25 I think for the ninja and filaflex. But because this stuff sticks to just about anything like glue, you can up the first layer speed to 50% which saves a lot of time.
(a little later) actually I'm doing my first proper filaflex print, 25mm/s and decided to do the first layer at 100% Plus I usually print these things at 0.2 layer height and 3 layers. This one I'm doing at 0.3 and 2 layers. Cuts it from 2.5 hours down to 30 minutes.
My delta prints filaflex :-)
I need to get that on at-shirt - talk about nerd-wear :-)
The white ones are the different speed polyflex and the 2 red ones are filaflex. The good one was 20mm/s the slightly dodgy one 40mm/s.
Attachment 10626
Attachment 10627
Don't forget I'm using the 0.5mm nozzle. But i can't see there being a problem with any of the smaller sizes.
@s550stang - wow, that is some job on the bike ! And come on ! A delta that prints even the wobbliest flexible filaments - the prusa is slower has way more movement and vibration and doesn't look anywhere near as cool as a delta plus the prusa has a lot more to go wrong with it. It's a no brainer ;-)
@number40fan - any questions, let me know.
says 110 - but unless you enclose it, there's nothing you're going to print that's likely to need anything above 60 - that's all I had it on for petg.
But remember I'm using printbite.
I'm well known to be anti-abs on 3d printers, so I'm not even going to bother testing it on alexa. Hate the smell and the reliance on acetone and the fact that in an unenclosed printer it's just weak and crap anyway.
I've looked up the aluminium extrusion.
Realistically 1metre struts are as tall as it would be sensible to go with a 1.75mm feed system.
It currently has 680mm legs, so with the bit you lose for the heatbed the extra 320mm would take her to a total of 590mm printable height.
I'm in no hurry. Currently got zero need for printing anything that tall.
It's just interesting to work out how to do it :-)
They are sensibly metric, as all precision measurements should be :-)
it's 2020 aluminium extrusion: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminium-E...nium+extrusion
Or to be more accurate:
2020 Aluminium Extrusion Profile 20mm T Slot/ Slot 6
So we move on from building to slicer settings.
Here's why you need to make sure you have 'don't cross model' switched on.
Attachment 10636
Now the weird thing is that I don't get any stringing when printing multiple objects, just when its crossing the model.
The head movement is so fast and smooth that having it go the long way round is not an issue.
I've just changed my simplify3d settings to these:
Attachment 10637
So that's today's lesson :-)
Part 2: well that didn't work. So I've just upped the 'avoid crossing outline' setting to it's 999 maximum.
see if that works !
***
That's more like it. So todays lesson. Don't bugger, about just set it at 999 and forget about it :-)
why ?
They actually walk their way up the arms anyway.
And I think if i re-tick 'force retraction between layers, it might also get rid of the stringing.
they also do that at the bottom. if you slide them up to the top (just tried it) they will rub and catch on the belts - and that's probably a bad thing :-)
Given that my carriage is rock solid and she prints like a machine costing 5x more - I'll leave them at the bottom ;-)
Excellent documentary on your delta, congrats. I have a SeeMeCNC ROSTOCK V2 (previous version of this - https://www.seemecnc.com/collections...rinter-diy-kit), just love the delta configuration. It has a spring gizmo on the arms but it attaches to the same set of rods instead of the next arm over. Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly from your photo, I guess if it works for you then don't mess with perfection.
If you are having problems with the springs 'walking' maybe you can print a 'c' shaped clip and snap it over the ends of the springs to keep them from moving.
Attachment 10645
little cable ties are what I'm using to stop the springs walking. Cheap, and effective.
I know it'e tempting, but sometimes non-3d printed solutions are easier :-)
I've got the springs at the v's where the pairs of arms meet and on the three pairs as well.
It works. There was a small amount of play before I fitted them and none now.
My next job is to make a cooling fan bracket. Made a pet-g tool last night, the broom handle socket is pretty rough. But who prints pet-g at 75mm/s and no cooling fan ? lol
It was also the first 0.2mm layer prints - no problem.
So I'm wondering if I can print 0.1 layer height at 150 mm/s Now that could be interesting :-)
So as the fan fits on the heat block and that gets pretty warm, I've decided to simply get a thin sheet of metal, drill a few holes, bend it and attach a fan to that. Most of the deltas I've seen have a similiar arrangement with the cooling fan just held up and at an angle at the side.
Seems pretty straightforward.
Just need to look at the board and see if I need a three wire fan or a two wire job.
Also check that standard computer screws will fit the holes in the heat block, as I've got no more of the bolts left.
Oh yeah i also made the simplest mod yet. a 20mm wide, 4mm thick, 100mm long bar that simply bolts onto a strut and you clip a webcam on the end.
Gives me a pretty decent angle for build videos, no vibration so the camera doesn't wobble, and because it sticks out to the side, the carriage doesn't block much of the view.
Still playing with best position, but works pretty well. Using the free version of video velocity for time lapse videos. Probably acquire the pro version at some point for hd recording. Very comprehensive and easy to use software. Pretty much the only limitation on the free version is that the video is limited to 640x480.
Camera mounted on top of the printer:
Attachment 10647
Using it side mounted:
Attachment 10648
And before anyone asks, I have no clue what make the webcam is. It was on my desk. Someone probably gave it to me as I don't remember buying it.
Nothing special, but does the job.
I use wondershare dvd slideshow deluxe to make my final videos. Very easy to use while at the same time having pretty much every feature you could want.
I've just ordered a 25mm 12v 2 wire fan. The trick is going to be keeping it close to extruder. With the extruder at the full 200mm diameter the carriage is pretty much touching the rive belts. Going to have to think about this. Couple of available screw holes on top of the extruder carriage. Maybe a duct with small nozzle that comes down between the bolt holders on the carriage.
Got a busy long weekend so can't see my getting this done before next week.
Plus fan might not get here till monday.
Thinking time :-)
Meanwhile, back at The Aardvark Burrow, I think I've worked out how to use the 1watt laser from my super tiny laser engraver, with simplify 3d to use the printer for laser engraving.
Looks like it's a simple gcode command to switch the ramps board into laser printing mode. A black and white image can be extruded. print the first layer, theoretically it should work.
Just got to extend laser wires and make a bracket for it.
Once it's in laser printer mode. It will burn on g1 moves and not on g0 moves. Which is presumably how the printer handles plastic extrusion anyway. So it ought to be as simple as creating a seperate profile in s3d with laser on and laser off in the start and end scripts. The printer profile should do everything else.
Sounds too easy - so we'll see, lol
Actually looks like if I mount it on the side of the heat box cooling fan with a cable tie (I'm all about hi-tech), I can leave it there. The only other place would be where the cooling duct is going to go. Plus on the side of the heat box - which will be off when lasering - it'll get a little active cooling as well.
Might have to drop my top print speeds a little, but can't see these two add ons being too heavy for her.
Hell I could probably print and engrave the wood filament in one operation.
We shall see.
Stay tuned....
Hit a snag.
The laser has a simple red and black two wire connector.
The laser socket on the board has three connectors.
What's the third one for and if I stick the two wires onto a three pin connector, which pins do i stick which one on ?
Is there anywhere I can get an actual manual for the: Bt 7200V 1.8.26 Ramps plus 2 board ?
I'm hitting a complete blank on internet searches.
Ramps 1.4.2 exists but not 1.8 or plus 2 boards.
I know it exists, I've got one and so far I'm pretty impressed by it.
But a manual would be pretty useful, or even just the pin-outs for the laser connector :-)
Laser aside for the time being. My little 25mmx10mm fan arrived.
Hooke dit up to the 12v fan socket on the board. Used the fan speed slider in simplify3d - yep, fan works and has variable speed and a fair bit of airflow - excellent !
What i want to do is fit it on top of the extruder carriage, with a slimline duct going down through the gap between the arm attach sockets.
The issue is how to attach it to the extruder carriage.
If I drill a couple of new holes I can bolt it from the bottom. Just comtemplating loading the carriage stl into openscad and doing some modifications and print a new carriage with different holes. Did contemplate adding the duct to the carriage, but that means you can't print it flat. And flat is crucial.
Stay tuned :-)
Definitely going with redesigned carriage, and will try and make a clip on setup so the fan and duct just clip on for ease of removal, adjustment, improvement etc.
Going to be a busy night :-)
***
you know how difficult it is to measure amounted carriage ? very.
So printing out a spare carriage to measure and try things out with.
Probably my biggest issue with openscad is that there is no way to measure an imported object.
Seems like it would be a simple thing to add as the model contains that information, just needs to be a tab where you can access it.
lol but I can't draw freehand, so any cad software that relies on you drawing stuff, leaves me cold. Plus I haven't found anything I can't make with openscad yet.
Where do you envisage putting your fan ? You duct has no input point. If you lay the fan flat, most of it will be blocked by the carriage.
Currently thinking about a clip built into the top of the carriage, so the fan can just clip down, standing vertically and the duct can clip onto the front of the fan. I can also stick something in the gap to keep the duct fairly stable.
I'm thinking more about a straight shaft with an angled exit, rather than a right angle. You need to blow down towards the bed and area being printed, not just across at the tip. You also don't want the duct on the same level as the nozzle as that could interfere with prints. So it has to stop above the nozzle and blow down and slightly across.
It does help having the printer in front of you :-)
Oh yeah, even the pla carriage I knocked out last night at 0.3 layer height, 75mm/s with no cooling fan - is way better than the one it came with.
just a normal fan.
You need to move your fan enclosure onto the actual carriage otherwise the arms will clatter into it.
You basically have the space between the hotend bolt heads and the edge of the gap to place both your fan and the shroud. The duct can go down between the arms, but even my 25mm fan is much too wide to sit that far forward.
Which is why it's actually easier to redesign the carriage with the fan clip already in place than try and make something to attach.
I'm also thinking about the fan and duct just slipping over the top of the fan and clipping into place somewhere (there may well end up being tiny cable ties involved :-)
Currently being mulled over in my hind brain, which does all the hard work :-) Also need it to print without supports, 'cos I've never designed anything that needed supports yet and don't intend to start now :-)
I also want it to look cool, so some organic curves wouldn't go amiss.
We'll see.
One option was to make the duct and shroud out of polyflex, so i can bend the duct into place.
what's an effector ?
I'll take some pics later :-)
lol not round here it isn't :-)
Like the design, BUT you cannot stick anything out further than the edge of the gap:
Attachment 10668
The arms come across the gap when you print at extremes.
Now they don't come across much, so you can put fairly low things there. But not the full fan shroud.
Attachment 10669
But with it being a 25mm fan you might get away with it.
If you make the hole cover plate 1mm thick It might fit.
Drop me the stl and I'll try it out :-)
Oh yeah, just measured fan - they sent me a 30mm after all. Despite that option being greyed out when I bought it, why I ticked 25mm in the first place.
Go figure. Wonder how big the 30mm fans are lol
nah - bear with me.
It will fit, you just have to think laterally ;-)
right just about to try first fan clip that's integral to the carriage.
Attachment 10670
Attachment 10671
The fan slides in from the back. The bolt heads will lock it in.
Just about to print a test.
The duct will fit with pegs that push into the screw holes on the fan. Definitely going with polyflex which will make the pegs really tight.
The back of the heat block stays cool when printing, so don't worry about duct touching it.
Once I've got the clip in the right place, and the fan's a good tight fit. I'll reinforce it and work out the duct.
Hopefully I can move it back a little from where it is at the moment.
Just printing clip and a mm of carriage.
Going to try and make the whole thing bolt free. :-)
It's an idea.
Not sure how it would look though.
And apparently I did buy a 30mm fan. Think the 25 was on amazon and I ended up getting it from ebay.
Looking at it the 25mm would probably be better.
Second test print underway. Previous clip was 2mm too narrow.
If I reverse the wires on the fan - will it reverse direction ?
or melt ?
I could do with it being the other way round, lol always the way :-)
yes but then it would blow the wrong way.
The indentations in the fan that I'm using to lock it in place, only go 7mm deep.
If it clips in without breaking the clip - all well and good. If not, I need to reverse the fan direction so i can turn it round and slide it into the clip :-)
Mk3 clip coming up - this one should do the trick.
The bolts lock it in nicely, can't fall out.
What is interesting, the 'live' preview on simplify3d is always ahead of the actual printer.
As these test prints just take 15 mins, running over usb.
That's 100mm/s at 0.3 layer height, imagine what she'll do with a cooling duct !
Might be able to risk 0.4.
Anyway that's it for tonight. off to find food :-)