Wanted: Heated Bed with stand-alone controller. DIY?

First post here

I have a Tinkerine Ditto Pro that doesn?t have a heated bed. Would like to add one but don?t believe there is any way to tie into the hardware of the printer.
I see there are 12 and 24v heated beds available from many sources but having a hard time figuring out a combination of power supply and hopefully a digital voltage/temperature controller to power it krogerfeedback. Push buttons or dial...digital readout ideally

A parts list would be awesome if someone could help.... or just buy a printer that comes with a heated bed?

Thanks in advance!

i'd go with keenovo. expensive but wont burn your house down.

here is a controller (42usd) https://keenovo.store/collections/ac...ge-of-30c-300c. the controller @110v has a capacity of 1600 watts, more than enoughph for a 3d printer (like 400 watts?)


idk what size bed you have, but this controller needs a mains powered bed (i.e. 110vac or 220vac). fast heat times are a benifit of mains, also you wont need an extra 24v or 12v power supply.

here are where to buy a bed from: https://www.keenovo.com/info/shop.html

Well hello 3dprintboard members, and this would be my First post here and I think my answer matches your query the most,

I have a Tinkerine Ditto Pro that doesn?t have a heated bed. Would like to add one but don?t believe there is any way to tie into the hardware of the printer.
I see there are 12 and 24v heated beds available from many sources but having a hard time figuring out a combination of power supply and hopefully a digital voltage/temperature controller to power it krogerfeedback. Push buttons or dial...digital readout ideally

A parts list would be awesome if someone could help.... or just buy a printer that comes with a heated bed?

Thanks in advance!

I built a heated bed for my Monoprice 150 (Rebadged Inventor II) before I bricked it . Made a few really nice prints with it, no curling. Here are the parts I used.. I never got to calibrate the temperature... I used the temp gun to control it. The last link is for filament, but it came with a

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I took the heating element, and put the matt that came with the filament on it. Peeled the backing off the glass plate and mounted it on the underside of the heating element. using the clips that came with, clipped to a piece of MDF with the holes drilled through it to match the lifter on the printer. Yes, it was on a separate power, but it worked well.

Jim

So for this effort we will need the heatbed whichever you choose and wherever you get it. And then we will need a medium, that is a device that can interpret the controllers signal and translate it into power sent to the bed. An external Mosfet like this should do the trick: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heating-Con...sAAOSwiaVeJTnV Once we have the bed and an external mosfet and I am assuming the bed has its own thermistor for temp sensing. If not then we will need to source that part. The thermistor can be fixed to the tiny hole in the center of most heat beds with a piece of Kapton tape. If needed it can also be sourced on ebay. So once we have the controlled circuit and the sensing circuits complete, that is the bed wired to the mosfet, power wired to the mosfet, and just the signal wires to the mosfet and the temp sensing wires left to connect to a controlling circuit, from this point we can choose a bulky Arduino nano or uno or w/e OR we could go with something small and efficient like a picaxe ic. In this rudimentary setup we can install a switch to ground or power as an input to select between 2 pre determined temps and you will write a sketch or program the microcontroller to achieve whichever temp as per the switch position. period. And you will have this controller power up at the start of your print. Of course the far simpler way is to upgrade the mainboard and wire that into the mosfet. No switch is needed then and we can achieve whatever temp we want for the bed whenever we want it.

I have to say I dont recommend an arduino for tempeture control to a electronics/ software beginner. I have personally witnessed arduino controlled heaters lock up and fry stuff. I would recommend only using a proper purpose built shield or prebuilt controller.

@autowiz

I didnt mean to come off as an arduino hater. I like arduino but prefer programming it in its native avr c or compiler personally. I know that "arduinos" are the heart of most 3d printers. However the code they run is incredibly clever and safe- and still printers have thermal runaway problems! (Cheap chinese ones at least)

An arduino would be acceptable if used correctly. I.e. correct shield and code. That can be hard for a novice to do, and if something goes wrong the result can be expense or costly. That's why I recommend either a board upgrade or 30$ purpose built guaranteed not to burn your house down device.

https://youtu.be/PS0CiJKFdtU?t=754

At about 12:45 into the video they have the problem I just described. Theirs is ac powered but still.

Idk about your background but I am a second year eeng student.

i just ordered a Monoprice Voxel with a 150x150 heat bed but the instructions for what i'm trying to build says a 200x200 is required. is this something that can be compensated for (by a newbie) or is that project a non-starter? thank you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jpolous

I built a heated bed for my Monoprice 150 (Rebadged Inventor II) before I bricked it . Made a few really nice prints with it, no curling. Here are the parts I used.. I never got to calibrate the temperature... I used the temp gun to control it. The last link is for filament, but it came with a

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I took the heating element, and put the matt that came with the filament on it. Peeled the backing off the glass plate and mounted it on the underside of the heating element. using the clips that came with, clipped to a piece of MDF with the holes drilled through it to match the lifter on the printer. Yes, it was on a separate power, but it worked well.

Jim

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Well hi 3dprintboard individuals, and this would be my First post here and I think my answer coordinates your question the most.

I have a Tinkerine Ditto Pro that doesnt? have a warmed bed. Might want to add one however don?t accept there is any approach to integrate with the equipment of the printer.

I see there are 12 and 24v warmed beds accessible from numerous sources however struggling sorting out a mix of intensity flexibly and ideally a computerized voltage/temperature regulator to control it . Press catches or dial...digital news readout the planet today in a perfect world

A sections rundown would be great in the event that somebody could help.... or on the other hand purchase a printer that accompanies Apple search engine?

Much obliged ahead of time!