Has anyone tried to Convert a E3Dv6 from Bowden to Direct
looks like the only difference would be the connector
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Has anyone tried to Convert a E3Dv6 from Bowden to Direct
looks like the only difference would be the connector
I assume it's a 1.75mm hot end? If so, the bowden and direct hot ends are the same minus the bowden coupler. If it's 3mm, then there is differences in the cold end design.
Are you switching back to a direct drive on your printer?
with a 1.75 universal you use a 3mm direct drive extruder and insert a PTFE liner running from the heatbreak to the bottom of the hobbed bolt...
i know i have 2 of the running on my printer right now :-)
but with a 3mm?
i don't see why you couldnt, you would just need to bore the direct up to the hobbed bolt to for the PTFE and then from there it's all the same... you might even be able to skip the bowden tube and just do an inset on the bottom the extruder with a drill bit so that the bowden adapter fits int ot eh recess and will sit flush.
I ordered a Direct Heatsink for my E3Dv6 as the bowden heatsink is too large to fit into the Bondtech v2 extruder
im not really enjoying a bowden setup.
That's a shame, you've done some really nice work on your printer, I really thought you'd master the bowden set upQuote:
Originally Posted by adamfilip
Dammit, lol your making me want to keep trying :p
I'm interested in seeing how good you can get the quality of your prints. I usually print at 0.3 layer height but so far, my mostly stock machine has nearly matched the accuracy of our Fortis machines at work
I switched up my nozzle back to .4mm as the .25mm nozzle was hard to get bed gap consistant.
my layers are usually .2mm