Warping, Ultimaker 2

I've been having warping issues lately on my Ultimaker 2. Not sure what else I can do to stop them.

Setup:
* Ultimaker 2 with olsen block
* Plexiglass door to keep consistent temps
* Tape over top to keep enclosure a toasty 125F / 51C
* GeckoTek EZ-Stik on my glass buildplate
* 0.4mm hot end
* Bed at 80C
* Good quality + fresh ABS filament

*STILL* getting horrible warping. Any ideas?

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I've been doing this long enough, you would think I would be past these kinds of issues lol. (bed is 84C in that last photo because I just cranked it up to 85C from 80C)

Oh.. and in terms of my layers, everything is pretty spot on.

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I don't have an Ultimaker, but I am printing on a glass bed with a BCN enclosed printer and a coating of Magigoo on the bed.
Been printing ASA which I believe has similar warping tendencies.

Things that have helped me so far......

Good coating of Magigoo.
Let chamber preheat for a good fifteen minutes.
Put some Mickey Mouse ears on the STL so it has more area on the bed, make mine about 0.5mm thick if needed with the addition of a brim, and remove after.
Let everything cool back to room temp before any attempt to open the chamber door.

Last print was at 94 bed temp, 255 extruder temp and 30 mm speed and zero cooling. This had the least warping so far after I had reduced the speed from 35 mm and increased from 250 extruder temp.

Seems important to have bed temp below filament glass transition temp, but as high as possible to passively heat the chamber.

Next print will have the speed reduced to 25 mm and the battle goes on.....:)

I'm slicing with BCN Cura at the moment, if you think that my ASA profile would help I'll happily post it or email it.

I use a MakerGear M2 with ploymide tape on the glass bed. I print ABS at 235C, enclosure is at 50C and the bed is 110C
My parts are all designed with rounded corners if possible. Z offset is set with bed and enclosure at temp, the bed will change shape when at 110 vs 70 and offset will need to be adjusted for perfection that is required for ABS to stick well. I also will use a skirt on and abs part.. 4-6 outlines depending on nozzle size spaced .03mm from the part so it can be removed without too much fuss.. Also I have found parts that are very high in infill will warp more than ones that are not.
Good luck!

I"ve been using two other things to stick to the bed. First is two layers of Elmers Purple School Glue Stick. I put a layer down and the cross it with another. If that doesn't work I've had good luck with two coats of AquaNet Extra Super Hold hairspray. Lastly, sometimes I'll add little disks to my corners that hold them down and then I trim them off with a dremel or exacto knife after printing. Sometimes I have to make them really wide but usually they are 3 or 4 layers tall at the most.

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have you tried abs slurry ?
when I used abs - before I came to my senses - some clear abs dissolved in acetone and painted on the bed really gave excellent adhesion.

But, I never managed to print abs without a using a raft.
And I've never used a raft with any other filament.

I did try a quick asa print the other day and yes - it too warps like a bastard.
But I will say ASA doesn't stink up the workshop like abs.

As was mentioned, magigoo is excellent and alittle really does go a long way.

I'm only printing with ASA at the moment, some things that have helped me to minimise warping that I've found so far....

Enclosed printer
Preheat the bed and then wait 20-30 minutes before starting a print to get inside the enclosure warm.
Nozzle temp 255.
Bed 94
Speed 25-30 mm......lower better
On no account open the enclosure until everything has cooled right down to ambient, ideally print finishes at bed time and is taken off the bed next morning.

Magigoo on the bed and if any sticking problems when cold just dribble some water round the edge and wait a short while for it to soften the Magigoo.

I'm not using a raft and just a skirt to purge the nozzle first.

Pics of print, 128mm long, 70mm wide, 100mm high.
Print came unstuck off the bed with no effort, just lifted straight off, no warping but I do need to start and tackle setting the retraction in the slicer.

Hm. I'm seeing a lot of folks running much higher bed temperatures. The 80C is default on the Ultimaker for ABS. I'll try the same print/filament and raising to 94C and pre-heating a bit longer. I'd like to get reasonably good at printing reasonably square items without mouse ears, brims, etc. Thanks!

Don't forget, no part cooling fan.

Few days ago I had some PLA warp up off the bed. Moved bed temp from the recommended 45 up to 60, that cured the warping off the bed.

I've gone right off PLA, I get a much better finish with ASA.

Don't forget all brands of a material are not equal some brands are much more difficult than others - personally my main materials are ABS and nylon and some brands of each I have been able to print with no trouble at all while others seem to be unprintable either not sticking to the bed or warping badly and several brands stick to the bed but delaminate between layers due to shrinkage. The best ABS brand I have found is a low warp brand generally know as abs-x , abs-plus or abs-pro. Made in holland unfortunately it is only sold for retailers to sell as an own brand. I purchase it from 3dfilaprint as ABS-x or Ooznest as ABS pro and I have seen it on Amazon but I cat remember where!!


The printing parameters I use are:-
Head Temp 255C
Bed Temp 80
Speed on a Sapphire Corexy 70mms
Speed on Ender 3 pro 45mm/s

Bed surface sanded Tufnol sheet with a coat of ABS sluury (10% abs dissolved in acetone.

Both printers in enclosures!!

Here the same i felt so