ABS warping and extrusion issues

OKAY, so I had issues with my DA VINCI 1.0A which is about 3 years old now. I decided to upgrade my extruder to the E3D V6, this is not a clone. I mounted everything and flashed my printer's firmware to Repetier version 0.92.10. I successfully adjusted the Z offset and performed my first print through Repetier host v2.1.6 using the Cura engine slicer.

These are the settings
- 30mm/s speed
- nozzle temp: 230 Degrees Celcius
- Bed temp: 100 Degrees Celcius
- I used blue painter's tape on the bed
- 20% infill
- 0.2mm layer height

Here are the results:
Attachment 13331Attachment 13332Attachment 13333Attachment 13334Attachment 13335Attachment 13336

As you can see, not very good at the moment. But the layers do seem to be a lot more consistent on the 'Y' side compared to most of my prints using the old stock extruder.

If anyone is able to suggest settings to change, It would be much appreciated!

I created a single sheet plywood case for dual 3D Printers, I read that this is the easiest way to keep ABS from warping.

I print with a bed temp of 96C and a hot-end temp of 236C.
I start printing at 32-50%
I then increase the Speed to 72-86%
I print on Paper Tape and a Chinese Build surface.
I print with 20-46 % Infill
and a layer Height of 0.2-0.31mm

In fact I have printed with the fan on up to 121 about 50% fan speed, would not recommend using the fan though without a heated case.

Sample ABS Prints This assembly requires 63D Printed Pieces.

Attachment 13342

Attachment 13343


Enclosure

Attachment 13338


I post this because your number are so close to mine that all you need is an enclosure. An more 3D Printing experience.

Hi, thanks for the reply, you have really amazing prints. My Da vinci printer actually already has an enclosure for it! I made some adjustments to the first layer bed temp, first layer speed and added a brim. I am using the same tape but with a thin layer of hair spray for better adhesion. I printed some fan mounts which I will install tomorrow.

My results are now much more pleasing but I am having some issue with inconsistent layers.
Here is a link, the file sizes were a bit larger so I had to upload it to google drive.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...-p?usp=sharing

How could I fix the layer issue? Has it got something to do with belt tension or the mode?
Tomorrow I will try printing the 3DBenchy.

Actually it's much more relevant to ask why you're using abs ?
pla is better for most things and pet-g better for everything else.
Then there are all the other designed for 3d printing materials around.
ABS, is just not great.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

Actually it's much more relevant to ask why you're using abs ?
pla is better for most things and pet-g better for everything else.
Then there are all the other designed for 3d printing materials around.
ABS, is just not great.

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I have to agree, though before I had learned this information I had purchased many rolls of ABS, now had to learn how to print it as wasting is not in my nature.

After many prints have learned much more on how to print that almost perfect ABS model.
Currently the fastest I have 3D Printed is 12.5mm^3 of filament per second with a layer height of 0.31 an nozzle diameter of 0.4mm.
This would be a print speed of 100% in cure 15.04.6 for a simple model though best complex 3D prints are at 72-86%

However I still print smaller models in PLA it is much easier to work with.
In the attached photo I even print on tape over a bed surface as the bed surface failed to allow the more complex shape print to have any adhesion.

Velociraptor Business Card
Attachment 13344


An this will be the results of my ABS prints, a very inexpensive 550 X 750 X 292mm MPCNC that can mill 3D Printer parts in aluminum.
or Any wood carving / cutting I choose to make.

https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....750#post130750

Your prints time per layer is needs to add a 'cooling period' between layers. You may also be running a little hot although 230C for ABS seems low. Minimum layer times are very useful for small parts. Having the hotend move out of the way and pausing for say 5 seconds per layer will help. I use to run 'cooling towers' which equates to priming towers to mimic that action when the printer doesn't do it for me (the slicer, of course).

Painter's tape has one flaw... the adhesive. Although your ABS part will stick like great guns to the tape, the adhesive will let go on the bed.

I now run a CubePro that has a heated enclosure and their primary material is ABS. The slicer is really good about providing cooling breaks as well as part fan management. The chamber is heated with a heater pointed right at the glass bed for some level of bed heating (nothing like 100C!). The original means to hold parts down was a joke! Maybe why these printers are now obsolete.
However, bring in LokBuild (definitely a fan!) and 3D Systems proprietary glue and you have a stick that rivals everything but an ABS slurry. I don't know what 3DS' glue formulation is but it holds to ABS like nobody's business. It works well on Lokbuild not because it is needed but because it makes it 3x more effective particularly on parts that like to curl at the edges. Furthermore, the original OEM intent is to wash the glue off and re-apply. Part removal would take up large pieces of the glue and remain with the part which you would then wash off. Not so with Lokbuild. The glue has a preference to stay with the build surface. No washing or wasting. Apply a bit of water to soften the glue and redistribute (recharge) the glue and let dry. I've had a small bottle of glue last over a year of heavy printing on my smaller machines. There really are some little known tricks that really enhances the ability to print with these tricky materials.

ABS Fossilz

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qp4XLEUDG2PcCzNs6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qp4XLEUDG2PcCzNs6
Attachment 13350

And I do appreciate Aardvark's ABS concerns. PETG is a wonderful alternative to ABS for many applications. Certainly something I will consider switching to once I've run through the 10Kg or so of ABS that now have in stock.

Anyway, the primary issue I see in your print is the heat-loading of the part itself. for the build plate 1st layer... consider a brim to help the corners stay flush.

Thanks for everyone's replies, I am using ABS because that is what I am used to using, I did purchase a role of black PETG from esun which I will be setting up soon... I am just trying to find the right settings for ABS first. I only have one roll of PLA but its about two years old and was kept in a open environment, I tried putting it in the oven but the case for the roll sort of... melted.

I have started using brims and no long have any issues with adhesion or warping. As linked in my previous comment the only issue I seem to be having is to do with the layers. They start off really smooth but then later on become more visible. This is seem throughout all of my prints of the calibration cube at the same spot so I am wondering if its something to do with the physical printer rather than the slicing settings.

Here is a picture in case the link isn't working:
https://imgur.com/v8Zqrar
Attachment 13352

I get an Amazon 3D printer search link ;p

I'm not sure what you mean?

I purchase Moisture Absorbent at the local Dollar Store and toss it into the rubber storage container that's used to store the Filament this way it is always moisture free.

Hey, thanks! I will put my filament into a container with some silica gel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lukuky64

I'm not sure what you mean?

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Attachment 13353

... the image is the message that the link takes me to.

Sorry there must have been an issue, maybe the file was too large. Here's a link: https://imgur.com/v8Zqrar this should work.

I think the issue has something to do with Z wobble, how could I fix this on my Da Vinci printer?

Your images display perfectly.
Here is a copy of one.

Attachment 13356

As for the lines starting up about 1/3 of the model being printed this could be a multitude of problems.
This could happen because of the lead-screws being out of alignment, it could be because the linear rods are too loose for the bearings or the bearing could need repacked.

Great Bearing Cleaning video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQHugGSQd5M

one other reason for the lines could well be a temperature gradient in the printer itself.

The reason abs isn't well suited for 3d printing is because it has built in shrinkage - this is to allow easy removal from injection moulds - which is what it was developed for..
So as each layer cools, it shrinks, the hotter the model stays the less the individual layers shrink.
The shrinkage can causes layer lines and also is what causes the really crappy layer adhesion.

Obviously the layers nearer the printbed are being heated by the bed itself, the layers further up are warmed ONLY by the internal temperature of the printer itself. And unless you have a thermostatically controlled temperature in your print area, it's always going to be cooler the further away from the print bed you get.

I also have a shelf full of abs - at some point I'll either give it away (I have tried, nobody wanted it) or dump it.
For me it's purely down to the smell and fumes.
Even on an open frame printer, if you print slowly and hot, you can get decent prints. They will not be as strong as prints with a material that has a lower thermal expansion, but they are useable.

But I have a relatively small crowded workshop and having it stink like a chemical factory is a bad idea.

Pla either doesn't smell or smells like maple syrup :-)

In defense of ABS, it works really well in an enclosure that is kept at 100F while printing and a bed at 110C. I have been using it a LOT for functional parts I design. The higher quality ABS works best, MakerGear sells a USA made rebranded product that is really excellent but $39 a roll plus shipping. The Esun stuff is ok, but not as consistent in diameter.

Last night I performed the PID autotune on the nozzle, not sure if it made any difference but I wiggled the Z bed around a bit and the layer issue has seemed to minimise a bit. But maybe it had something to do with the model. The 3DBenchy bridging section failed near the top so I increased the travel speed to 95mm/s and did a bridge model test. But I am impressed the printer is now able to create the front hull without any drooping.

https://imgur.com/a/ttRwrJF

Also, if you are giving away ABS filament... I will gladly be willing to help you out :). I am located in Australia though, so i'm not sure how much shipping will cost me.

Oh I thought Esun made high quality filament, when I purchase some PLA or PLA+ I will try a different brand, Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lukuky64

Oh I thought Esun made high quality filament, when I purchase some PLA or PLA+ I will try a different brand, Thanks!

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Esun is fine, just not always as consistent in diameter. I use Esun all the time PLA + PETG and ABS.. just saying there is higher quality and it does make a difference.