diy 3d printer design verification

Hello all. I am new to 3d printing (only used one maybe a dozen times) and do not own one, and would like to build my own. However, I have little knowledge on how they are designed. so using my limited knowledge designed one in PTC creo. (Design files below, stl and creo) and I am wondering if my design is a good one. i am plenty capable of building one, i just want to make sure i got the design "correct".

Attachment 13544

The frame of my design consists of aluminum extrusion from the company 80/20, specifically from their 10 series extrusions. (I.e. 1”x1”). all the gray "plates" are 1/8" alluminum or steal. i will assemble the frame without brackets, only using bolts. (not pictured)
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i want my 3d printer to be floor standing, so this frame design measures in at roughly 29 x 27 x 54inches, not including the planned leveling feet, which will add an extra 5-6inches in height. the print area measures in at 500mm x 500mm x 1000mm (the largest heated bed I could find), but of the 1000mm height only about 900mm is actually usable. the z-axis rails are 12mm supported rails, and driven by a nema 23 stepper motor, which for now is just floating. the z-axis rod is an 8mm acme rod measuring in at 1000mm, and supported by two bearing blocks. Should I invest in a ballscrew instead?

The frame of my design consists of aluminum extrusion from the company 80/20, specifically from their 10 series extrusions. (I.e. 1”x1”). all the gray "plates" are 1/8" alluminum or steel. i will assemble the frame without (limited) brackets (might print some when its done), only using bolts. (not pictured). for the frame and mechanism i dont want to use any 3d printed parts

this design uses a total of 9 (yes 9) stepper motors. 4 for the boden, 4 for the x/y, and 1 for the z.

Attachment 13546

For the extruder I plan on using the kraken quad filament water-cooled extruder. Pictured are the four 1kg spools (green), and the gray guide plates to guide the filament to the four boden steppers.

I have two main questions. (1) What controller should I use? I’ve looked at the skr pro and the duet, but need something capable of controlling 9 steppers. (2) Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?

before i put more detail i want to make sure the "bones" of the design are correct.

If anyone needs further clarification on my design or more pictures, feel free to ask!

Here is a link to my design files (both stl and creo assembly): it wont let me post a link sorry :(

Prusa Research MMU2S for 5 color printing -OR- Diamond Hotend for 3 color mixing. These are the multi material setups we should seriously consider. the 3 nozzles you aren't using on that kracken will drip and destroy every print. ONE nozzle only. The Diamond hotend throws up a lot of heat as it is such a large heated tip. It needs a robust cooling fan to prevent heat creep. I setup a 3 color mixing printer once. But today the software has caught up: https://www.reprap.org/wiki/Repetier_Color_Mixing I am currently balls deep in setting up a MMU2S with a 32 bit controller(SKR 1.3) and as soon as I am done with that i am going to convert my 3 color mixing printer back to its original form so i will have one 5 color printer and one 3 color mixing printer. And Only One extruder tip on each!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by super7800

I have two main questions. (1) What controller should I use? I’ve looked at the skr pro and the duet, but need something capable of controlling 9 steppers. (2) Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?

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SKR 1.3 is a great board. 32 bit controller that will run marlin 2.0. And it is cheap, too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKR-Mini-V1...AAAOSwcrVdea2l I am installing one in a printer I am setting up with a whole mess of steppers. I am using stepper driver expansion boards and this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIChqkEAuto&t= and we can use as many steppers as we like with whatever board we like. I personally like the 1.3 board and also I have found the absolute latest version of the tft touchscreen. from Bigtreetech the tft35 v3.0. I found this bad boy on amazon. It is both a color touch screen AND a lcd12864. or it has the knob anyways: https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-D.../dp/B07W1PB11F You should also look for the TMC2208 v2.0 stepper drivers and run your build with a 24v power supply. You will be so much happier with 24v over a 12v system. Especially if you have a large heatbed or want to print with higher temp materials.

thanks for the advice!

looking at prints that the kraken had done, i had noticed drips but had assumed that was due to it being setup incorrectly. thanks. however, i cannot do what you suggested either, as it has to "clean" the nozzle when changing colors, and sometimes doing this can cause the same kinda problems with the kraken (color mixes/drips), or so the reasearch i did told me, correct me if i'm wrong and with your own experiences.

knowing that neither solution was "good enough" for me, i decided to find the elusive third option: the tool changing head assembly. I've only seen this done once, so if anyone else has examples please feel free to share.

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the design i came up with is pictured above. on the left is the complete assembly, and on the right is where the extruders mount (backside pictured first, then the front where the extruder mounts). for some scale the mount is 2" wide, the linear rails and leadscrew 400mm long/ 8mm dia, and the red toolholder is 10" in diameter.

this design has the capability of holding 8!! independent heads, and the above pictured uses 8x sg90 servomotors, 1x nema 23 (center of wheel), and 2x nema 17 steppers.

the theory is that on the side opposite of the red wheel is the head, so the selector selects the head, clamps on, rotates 180", and then goes up to the head and mounts it. hope thats clear, its kinda hard to describe.

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the red toolholder rotates in a bearing within bearing design.

look up mpcnc automatic tool changer on youtube to see a similar design. id post a link but it still wont let me :(

for the 8 extruders, im thinking about going with the NF W-01 watercooled extruder. its watercooled and looks sleak, but ive found no information online about that model. is it a good one? and suggestions for different ones?

with this design (correct me if im totally wrong), there is no way that ill be able to control this with a "cheep" controller like the skr, and will need to invest in the duet with the duex expansion, but that price! i kinda want to buy the legit mainboard, but does anyone know of a good clone of the duex 5 (or even the mainboard)? spending that much on an expansion board is not really what i want to do.

my same question about design still stands though: Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?

before i put more detail i want to make sure the "bones" of the design are correct. i will design the rest of the model for this toolchanger, and mount it to the frame once ive heard peolpes opinion on it, so if there is a problem or better solution out there, i wont have put to terribly much time into this design.

If anyone needs further clarification on my design or more pictures, feel free to ask!

this tool changer will come later after i built the physical machine already, but a want to make sure the frame can accommodate it first.

Here is a link to my design files (both stl and creo assembly): it wont let me post a link sorry :( message me for it?


THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!

So there is a wipe tower that is a block that gets printed in the rear of your print bed for the printer to clear the nozzle and then there is wipe to infill where it saves the filament and makes sure that the color change happens during infill. The multi tips will require a servo and specifically bent tin to serve as a cap for each individual nozzle you aren't using. That is the only way to stop the drip completely. Here is an awesome video on the setup of a Prusa MMU2S on a generic 3d printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7TexBAR80

i decided to go with the duet 2 ethernet and duex 5 for control, however i will buy cloned to save some money (its over half off buying cloned). has anyone had problems using cloned?

the board with expansion supports 7 print heads, but nothing more. so in order to add my planned tool changer i will probably need to develop my own solution? has anyone seen a design like mine implemented before on a 3d printer?

here is my parts list. i tried to attach it in a zip, but it didnt wanna let me :(

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all i have left to do selection-wise is find a good auto-leveling sensor, and a good psu. since this is running at 24v, would something like a 24v at 33amps be big enough? remember it has to drive a 500x500 bed, 11 nema 17, and 1 nema 23, and i plan to have 7 print heads (obviously only about 2 would be active at the same time). i also want to have the ability to add the tool changer, thus increasing power demands.

i have left out the x-axis ballscrew and nema 23 motor, as i have those, and all parts relating to the toolchanger. i also left out the 6 additional heads from the partslist, as im going to start off with one and go from there.

for the hotends i want to use the nf w-01 . however little information exists online about them. any suggestions?

thanks

if anyone wants to follow the project further, here is a reddit post i made where people have been helping me out: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/..._verification/

here are some updated pics for those interested:
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the volume is 500x500x~1000mm

the z-axis motors and dual ballscrews are not pictured. they are a set of nema 23

the x/y is now a corexy design using 15mm gates belts, two 600mmx12mm supported rails, and a 700mmx12mm single linear rail. its driven by two nema 17 steppers.

here is a picture of my roughph wiring diagram: https://postimg.cc/WhWTBj7h

i plan on using 7 (yes 7) watercooled extruders, and using air instead of fans to blow air onto the part, since this will be completelly enclosed. all wiring excluding water will be enclosed in dragchain(x/y using 10x20, z using 10x10).

for more pictures/ details please see the above reddit post link.

as always if anyone sees any problems with the design, or wants to suggest anything, your opinion is welcome. manny of the parts have been ordered already, however.

thanks!

hello! it is currently 1/10/2020 and i figured id post an update. the frame is almost finished (see below pictures), and i figure that if anyone here has any input on things i could improve, i should update this thread.

Here are some pictures:


Here are some pictures:
here is a picture of the current rough wiring diagram: https://i.postimg.cc/cLh7Qvq2/wiring-diagram-8-1.png
here are my top 6 pictures I've taken so far: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mqi8k2ke/
here are picture of the electrical panel: https://i.postimg.cc/y81cY7JP/20200112-154634.jpg
finally, here are all 84 pictures I've taken for more detail: https://postimg.cc/gallery/1dk25jk0c/


changes to the cad are the x/y axis are now 12mm "rectangle style" linear rails. they will use 12mm belts.

the z-axis is driven by ball-screws. should i drive the set via one motor for the two, or give each one an individual motor?

the pictures don't do this justice, to work on this i was able to sit down INSIDE the printer! the build area is roughphly 500x500x900 (it will be a bit bigger than that, but this is the initial idea)

does anyone have experience ordering custom KEENOVO heatpads? if anyone has questions/comments/suggestions feel free to post. ill post again in a few months with another update regardless.

EDIT: it is powered by four sola PSUs, 2x 2.5 amp (one for plc, other for safety/lights/contactors), and 2x 10 amp ones in parallel for the duet. Sola are really "the best of the best" (within reason), so i went with them. the computer psu is to power the pc that interfaces to the duet (didnt want to use a paneldue, wanted webcam etc functions, since the door wont be clear). the system is 24vdc. i know my diagram sucks, but its the best i can do with the software i have (microsoft publisher). hope this clarifies.

it's a shame about the duet as the guy who works for duet is a genius engineer and would have gladly helped with all your design issues.

So where do you get a duet clone from and what's it called ?

i bought the clone of the duet 2 and duex5 from aliexpress, from a company called fysetc, as i heard that the clones from them where of a higher quality. i would have bought the original gladly if it did what i needed it to do, but it simply is not expandable enough (with 7 tools, all stepper, heater, and thermistor IO is used, leaving none for the heated chamber, the PID loop for the water pump, etc). the fan IO perhaps could have been used, but it just was'nt worth it. (i'm not using any fans for cooling the heaters, only water, and an aquarium pump for part cooling, and all other fans are 110v, so when i'm done the only extra IO will be fans, as i am maxing out the endstops as well) i'm sure there are ways that it could have worked, but it was just easier to use a PLC.

if the duet 3 had come out earlier i would have gotten that, but i'm too far invested now to do that, and they have not released the expansion boards for that either yet.

https://i.postimg.cc/JhqqbSkT/a.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/3r6ZCXkH/20200112-154634.jpg

EDIT: for the core x/y axis i plan to use this (x2): https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/ne...angle%5B0.9%5D

should i use a nema 17 (~65% less torque) instead of the above nema 23? to my uneducated about steppers mind, it seems that if it has more torque, it can stop/ accelerate faster thus making the printer able to print faster?