Could use guidance on choosing printer for prototyping PCB enclosures, etc. please :)

I don't have a problem with ABS per-se but standard ABS warp a lot because they shrink a lot on cooling so a part like the one you wish to make will be very difficult in ABS that is why we went to the Dutch filament ABS-x the retailer I buy it from is 3Dfilaprint they say they have a USA presence now but I don't have any contact details for them. When we first started I bought a basic ABS filament from Amazon but we have never been able to get large prints from it. Hence ABS-x and so called low warp technology!Pretty much indistinguishable for ABS once printed is PET-G and is much easier to print because of low warp/shrinkage on cooling. Once more we use a premium filament from the Mitsubishi Dutch unit. 3dfilapint if you can find their US number also stock this material as an own brand. A quick email to Customer Service: cs-3dp@mcpp-europe.com should get you a US supplier of their Filaments. If you need any more help please let me know I am always ready to help.

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Originally Posted by airscapes

I tend to use my .75 mm nozzle to make large items.. granted it does not looks as nice but if you design the part with the extrusion width in mind (.8mm) it can work really well. With .5mm layer height it gets done much faster even at 30mm second.. I don't sell my stuff so as long as all the holes line up and the thing is strong does not mastter what it looks like.. I prefer ABS for boxes, that way I can tap the holes and use M3 screws to hold on the lid and boards.

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Thanks airscapes! Sounds like I have a variety of nozzles, settings, and material to experiment with, for sure. Do you use machine screws, or do you tap your holes for a courser type of M3 screw?

I use a M3 .5 I think it is.. standard M3 find thread you would have on a 3d printer extruder motor and what not.. Have a big bag of mushroom head screws I bought off ebay. also use M4 for larger parts. Have had no luck tapping any other plastic PLA Nylon PETG.. PLA works but not clean like ABS. I put the tap in a cordless drill and run it into a preprinted hole the is sized just slightly smaller than you would drill in metal for the tap. I use compressed air to blow the plastic out of the hole as the tap advances and is retracted. For short standoffs I model the tap hole all the way through so I can run that tap in from the bottom where there are no walls in the way of the drill chuck
In the photo I printed the lid in clear PETG so I can see the built in LEDS on the Trinket board, eliminating the need to add external LEDS
Next I need to print a dial for the 4 switch positions I will be using.

Purchased a 4Pro 2.0, they took the money but never shipped the product.... see trustpilot before you waste your money !