Looking for pet-g settings

I know if you get the settigs right for pet-g it's crazy strong.

But never recorded or saved them the last time I printed something in petg that was strong.

So what do you lot use ?
retraction and print speeds, temperature settings, extrusion ratios etc :-)

So who's got good pet-g settings ?
Oh yeah, it's white pet-g if that helps :-)

And before you ask, have no clue who made what I'm currently using, got a cheap 1kg roll on its way from ebay - sovol brand. No I hadn't heard of them either :-)
but at ?15 a kg delivered, figured it was worth a punt :-)

What i have so far:
print temp: 240c
bed temp: 80c
those seem to be spot on. Getting good layer adhesion and it's sticking way way better than it was at 65c.

retractions wise currently up to 4mm at 70mm/s.

Just changed from 50mm/s = which is good, but slow. To 60mm/s - still slow, but I want all the speed I can get :-)
Running at 0.32mm layer with first layer at 150% height.

Got first layer speed at 10%, I'll try that at 15% for the next test.

Right think this is good as it's going to get.

15% first layer
65mm/s max speed - tempted to go for 75, but everything I've read reckons 65 is about as good as it gets.
4.5mm retraction at 70mm/s
240 print temp
80c bed temp
fan is on 0% first layer and 50% for all others.
stringing is minimal. Top klayer finish is acceptable.
Adhesion on the printbite looks good. no lifting visible anywhere.

Time to make an actual mould :-)

I use a direct drive machine and S3D V4.0.1PETG is eSun Normaly I use a .5 nozzle Layer height of .3 Nozzle Temp 245Bed Temp 80Speed no faster than 45mmSInfil is modle dependeant Retaction .80 @40mmSFirst layer is at 100% heightI enter the average measured diameter of the filament which my current roll is 1.70mm I print 2 walled squares to verify starting height (if start is correct print height is same as model) Wall thickness should be same as model if Extrude multiplier is correct. I have found that using an extrude multiplier 2 or 3 higher than correct wall thickness gives a stronger part. When exact size is not important I normally over extrude slightly. For instance last setup .90 gave me exact wall thickness. going to .93 gave me no space between threads and only slightly fat walls. Also print a 2 layer flat square to help with the extrude multiplier Top layer should be solid with no spaces between threads when examined with a loop or microscope.Normally do a single layer single pass skirt 2mm from part to prime nozzle. On the makergear m2 the nozzle primes over the side of the bed ad always grab thread with tweezers so as not to curl up and get stuck to nozzle. Crud on nozzle causes a lot of trouble with PETG so a clean nose is a must!Good luck
Fan should be off on all layers

I added the attachment an look at the mess that became of my nicely formatted post.. Not going to fix it till you get a look.. all the carriage returns were stripped and extra spaces.. wtf

looks like I've got a fair bit of blobbing. Think I'll have to drop print speed. Or maybe not.
But it's stuck fine to the bed :-)

The models i want to make have a lot of overhang. underhang (or whatever that's called) and horizontal round holes.
Hmm, usually always use 1.0 for multiplier.
have to try -0.90.
Certainly looks like there's a wee bit extra plastic coming out that has nowhere useful to go.
Attachment 12809
It's interesting you can see the little bits of plastic build up on the nozzle, then stick to the print. They all seem to be sticking inside the void, which needs to be as smooth as possible.
So that's not good lol
Tha outside of the model looks great. smooth and clean.
no obvious stringing,
Eventually, I'll hopefully, be making these on the ctc i3 - which is direct drive. At the moment they'll be on the delta.
The outside of the mould is great. But the inside is where all the little bits of plastic accumulated and that's the bit that counts lol
Strength is superb. Dimensions are acceptable, not quite as accurate as the pla ones - but then I have just scraped the interior excessively with a curved bit of metal (back of the mantis buzzard blade). so that most likely accounts for that.

All holes for the metal inserts are as good as the pla prints.
So just need to sort that tiny bit of blobbing and we're good to go :-)


what browser are you using ?
The format thing does ring a distant bell.

Chrome browser.
Try printing that 2 wall square I attached. The thinkness of the wall should be 1.2mm and 3mm tall.. This is how I find the proper extrude multiplier.
Never used a delta but I keep the speed to a max of 45mmS When I see a lot of stuff stuck to the nozzle it is normally because I don't have the starting height set correctly. once you get a bugger on there they keep on getting stuck.. PETG is very sticky. Also slow your speed when not printing.. axis movers.. default X on my MG was 300mmS droping to 200 really reduced strings and the nose snot you are talking about.

I tend to use max of 70mm/s movement speed. or match the print speed, cuts down on a lot of the little spikes you get from sudden acceleration.
I also never cross the model when printing, cuts down on cobwebs.

I like to print actual things.
starting height=smoosh factor I presume.
ie: how much you push the filament into the bed for the first layer.

okay I'll drop that a wee bit.
Currently just printing a tiny mould wthout hinges, handle etc.
So rectangle with void.
I can check everything I need from that and also tell if the mould will be smooth enough form use.
It's 1.8 grams. :-)

try firefox - should fix your formatting and also is faster and more reliable than chrome in general.
Chrome is a pretty lousy browser, being almost a full android implementation (but without the ability to run android apps - which would be useful). It takes up a lot of space, resources and is amazing at picking up viruses.
One of the first things i do on seeing any new clients computer is to remove chrome - if it's there.

okay the smooshing does seem to be helping.
Also dropped temp back to 240, speed down to 45, extrusion multiplier 0.9 and first layer height at 100%.

It'll take a frigging age to print the larger moulds, I guess that's why I have extra printers :-)

I'll stop cooling next, can't see how that's going o help - but it's something I haven't tried yet.

is there a particular pet-g colour you think works better than the others ?

With pla, for me red is always much better and gives way cleaner and better prints than any other colour.

Color does not matter.. I have Black, white, Blue, Gray, crystal clear, Crystal Blue and crystal Red.. the makergeek Crystal is not as nice as the eSun.. I has less G in it and is more brittle. Printed the black brackets yesterday .. the fucupuss is the crystal red from before Christmas.. he fell off the shelf and broke a finger.

the weird thing is I'm getting stringing in the void. If I was just printing something solid, it would be great.
What I can't figure out is where the stringing is coming from. The head never crosses the hole, always goes round the edge. So why do i have a spiders web in the middle ?

Try a little more retraction. One thing PETG is good for is spider webs. When the part is done my head moves to the side and there is a spiderweb from the part to the head.. always...

If you are using z lift, try turning that off, I never use lift.

never use z-lift.

well ended up with odd setting that caused considerably fewer stringing/ Turning cooling back on to 100% really helped.
Also went with shorter slower retractions.

But in the end it's just not going to be a sensible option with the delta.
The speed alone makes it highly inpractical. I print the pla moulds at 100 mm/s
going down to 40 and 10% first layer puts a small mould set up to about 8 hours.
Plus with ptg, you can't do both halves at once, just too muh stringing between parts.
I think you could get away with printing one part at a time. Might try it at some point.

I'll try again at some point with one of the other printers.
meanwhile I'll stick with pla and just beef up the layers and infill.

Cheers for the help :-)

Best PETG I've run so far is NovaMaker clear from Amazon. Doesn't curl and adheres to the bed well. I run it at 245-250C. Cannot determine the speed and feed (semi-closed system).
Also using z-drop and retractions. Minimal stringing.

Attachment 12815

So most 3D printers do not have the means to measure ?jerk?. What they can do though is control it. That is, the jerks can be set (or rather limited) to some pre-chosen value (the best one is usually found by trial and error).(1) Choose a constant jerk; (2) discrete integration then gives a linear ramp-up in acceleration; (3) discrete integration again gives a quadratic ramp-up in speed.(4) With knowledge about the geometry of the systems condensed down to the steps/mm value one can then program the controlling microprocessor to execute that speedup-ramp that creates the desired jerk value. Or rather one can avoid exceeding it.

petg is not a hard plastic to print with the perfect settings for you depends on your setup extruder,hotend,filament

if you are intrested in learning about petg and struggle with it this article might help you, one of our authors hated petg untill he tried this filament
https://www.inov3d.net/3d-hero-red-petg-review