Printable View
So i have been making my new delta printer for the past day or two the instructions where ok until the parts did not natch up. In the photos are the mount for the print head i do not know where to where to put the arms on. does any one know?
here are the photos
That extra block is strange. What is the purpose of it? Some how, they arms need to go onto that block. And here is the thing to pay attention to: The spacing between the arms needs to be identical to the spacing between the other two sets of arms. Also, the distance from the center of the effector needs to be identical with the other two sets of arms.
There is only going to be one location where the arms can go. But that extra block does not make sense.
Ya, the extra block is weird. I have got it all lined up tho, but now there is another problem... in the manual it says nothing about how to put my auto leveling on.
The extra block is just an additional support for the hot end and the bowden connector.
Autoleveling is the "patch fix" for a badly calibrated printer.
I assume you have Marlin firmware running on an Arduino like 90% of the rep rap community? You need to become familiar with three calibration settings:
Max Z Height - The absolute printing height of your printer. Your printer "homes" to Z-Max and has no Z-Min endstops. This means that it can't find the floor, it simply finds the "ceiling" and uses the Z Max height to locate the floor. People often confuse their Z-Probe as Z-Min endstop. They are not the same. An endstop actually locates the print head, a probe compensates/corrects your Z Max Height. I hope this makes sense. Oh, and Max Z height will change throughout the day as your printer thermally expands and contracts. G28 is the homing command that must be done after every power up of the printer and before every print.
Diagonal rod length - The length of your arms from center to center of the balls. This setting effects the "dishing" of you printer. If the setting is wrong your hot end will make a "dish" as it moves in the XY plane. IE, it wont stay level.
Horizontal Rod Offset (Smooth Rod Offset) - The center to center distance from the balls only on the X-Axis. If this setting is wrong then printer wont be dimensionally accurate. A 10mm square will become larger or smaller if it's wrong.
http://chibidibidiwah.wdfiles.com/lo...elta/delta.png This picture does a good job of showing the two distance measurements.
A lot of people are really afraid of delta printer calibration but the truth is it's pretty easy. Get the three settings above correct and then match the plane of your endstops to the plane of the bed, which are never relatively parrallel. The good news is getting the endstop plane to match the bed plane should be pretty easy too. Endstop corrections can be done in the firmware or manually by loosing them and moving them.
Hope this all makes sense! Btw, what kind of printer did you get haha?
If you have not figured it out yet you have the pivot / extruder mounted up side down the nub goes up and a limit switch mounts to it.
lucky imperial as you seem to know about these also i have i belive the same printer as the op and i am at the point of calibration and wondered if you would have any help/leads? i have been in computers since the eairly 90's but my brain is old trying to learn new hahah
Keep watching the MarlinFirmware/MarlinDev branch at GitHub. Or who knows??? Maybe it shows up in the 'Firmware Enhancements to Marlin' folder here. There is a killier Delta Auto Bed Leveling routine well into development that is going to show up in Marlin soon. You will be better off calibrating the bed as good as you can physically. But if you don't even bother, it still will print OK.Code:A lot of people are really afraid of delta printer calibration but the truth is it's pretty easy. Get the three settings above correct and then match the plane of your endstops to the plane of the bed, which are never relatively parrallel. The good news is getting the endstop plane to match the bed plane should be pretty easy too. Endstop corrections can be done in the firmware or manually by loosing them and moving them.
I am working on the calibration just got the numbers for bed with paper thickness but when I tried a text cube the other day the head went outside the frame and straight down and was grinding on the bottom thankful I didn't have the glad bed in