3 point bed levelling

I know i saw a thread about this a week or two back - but buggered if I can find it.

Anyway the new machine has 3 point bed leveling. And i know I'm not getting it right.

Unfortunately the sailfish firmware is not as helpful as the older one my ff has.

It just says move the head around yourself to each knob until you think it's level. This is just not working very well.

So - what is the best way to level a 3 point bed ?

4 point certainly seems to be much easier.

But presumably they went to 3 for a reason.
So whats the best way to do it ?

4 point is pointless. lol With 4 point you will always have 2 adjustments kinda fighting themselves.

This is what I do, preheat to about 80-90c. Start the script and it will home the build plate and move the print head to the middle. As usual, use a post it note. I will will always do a quick pre adjustment to get the settings close before doing a fine tuning run.

1. Move the print head to the back right over top of one of the adjusters, don't go all the way to the far corner as the plate teeters a little. Adjust so you have a little resistance.
2. After you get one side of the back good do the other back side and adjust by feel to get as close as possible to the same resistance as the other side.
3. Move back to the other adjuster and make sure it is still ok, then do the front. It shoud be be done after that as long as you didn't have to make a huge adjustment to the front.

Don't bother with the middle, it is always lower because of the print head weight and it sags the rails a tiny amount.

The adjustments are minor when you get close, I can turn my adjuster just the littlest bit that you can and go from touching to not with one move.

Some suggest printing a test brim or pattern after adjusting to check for even width of the first bead, I have never needed to do this.

Hmm, that's pretty much what the knp people say. Ie: suck it and see :-)

And 4 point is very easy, never had a problem with it.
You just follow the firmware method and it works every time.

And on my three point I've got two on the front level with each other and one in the middle at the back.
There must be better method, than just moving it around till it feels right.

Guess it could just be what you're used to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

Hmm, that's pretty much what the knp people say. Ie: suck it and see :-)

And 4 point is very easy, never had a problem with it.
You just follow the firmware method and it works every time.

And on my three point I've got two on the front level with each other and one in the middle at the back.
There must be better method, than just moving it around till it feels right.

Guess it could just be what you're used to.

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Ya the sailfish way is to not move to specific spot automatically. I like being able to move the print head from spot to spot as needed instead of going through the script several times. Its faster that way. I literally take 2 minutes to check things after heating the bed and end up maybe making very minor adjustments a couple times a week. It isn't needed every print.

3 point is the more standard way. Flashforge used 4 points on early models then switched. Instruments that require leveling like surveying instruments all use 3 points.

I find that two passes of each point brings me right in.

yeah had a longer play yesterday and I think I've got the hang of it :-)

But I still prefer the 4 way, lol :-)

3 points establish a plane geometricaly. It's pretty easy to get it spot on.

yeah, seems to work - but I still prefer 4 :-)