Peachy enclosure questions

Hi,

As lots of us, I pre-ordered a peachyprinter some time ago, and to kill time beforeWaiting for my peachyprinter, I am planning to design a sheet-metal enclosure/stand for it (thanks to my former job, where I can go to laser -cut and bend metal parts - of course, my first tests would be made with the standard cardboard design shown in the instruction ;).

But to do my enclosure properly, I have a bunch of (stupid) questions:

- I'd like to mount directly the peachy under the top of the enclosure (I saw such examples in the instructions). Is it a correct solution? If yes, where could I find the needed dimensions (centerline distance for screw holes for example)?

- I saw an UV blocking film is included in the kit. In order to design the window(s), which size is this included sheet? Or is there a way to buy some more? I saw an old post from Rylan stating that the film would be put on the store, is it still topical?

- About this film, isn't it too... flimsy, as a window? I plan to make a sandwich, between 2 polycarbonate sheets. Good way?

- If possible, I plan to design a basic vapour filtration at the rear of the enclosure. Is the peachy able (hardware speaking, through I/O pins), to pilot a PC fan?

Thx for reading...

for the window, you could use something like one of these. http://www.lasersafetyindustries.com...dows_s/553.htm
Just match it to the laser wavelength.

with some testing from a near-uv led I have found that several layers (6+) of the orange celophane giftwrap can significantly reduce the near-uv light that either enters or leaves an enclosure at least as well as the official film, and yes the official film is not able to be considered a structural material as it is just about twice the stiffness of the celophane, so if you want the rigidity of a window then you will want either glass, perspex or polycarbonate sheets.
about the laser windows, as we NEED the 405nm(+/-10%)(my guess at needed tolerances) so 400-410nm for the laser window blocking, there was only three that had ANY degree of block in the 400-450nm range and one(440 model) was only a 2+ factor(the lowest rating of all the rating listed and the higher the rating the better for us as less light of that wavelength will pass through(and 18% visible light transmittance),
the second(425 model) has a 4+ rating (claims to allow 26% of visible light )transmittance,
the third (410 model) also has a 4+ rating and 43% visible light transmittance
the point about light transmittance is it needs brighter lighting behind the window to see through the lower transmittance windows than the higher transmittance windows as the window is BLOCKING all but the % of light

Thanks guys.

I started some investigations according to your advice, and buying this kind of filter screens seems a bit difficult as a particular individual.
My most "convincing" result was on Aliexpress:
I found only tiny 50x50mm (2"x2") sheets on the site, but I asked the seller, and he can provide larger ones, for example 100x150mm for 33.75$ (still very small), or 200x150 for 67.5$ (a bit expensive). At least, delivery time from China wouldn't be a problem here :p

But another stupid question: wouldn't welding glass a solution, as it is meant to both block UV and drastically decrease blue light (light emitted when welding is around 440nm)?
Of course, it wouldn't be perfect:
- very few light transmittance for passive glass, depending on the class, or
- even less transmittance for electronic glass, at least when on (black screen when the peachy is on, providing the peachy laser beam can activate the sensor), but better when off (controlling the print may still be possible with regular pauses during the process?)...

If you were in the states, this would be a good source:
http://jtechphotonics.com/?product=4...aser-shielding
Not sure about France though. You should find a local plexiglass/cast acrylic sheet supplier and see if they know which kind will work best for you, or if they would allow you to purchase small sample scraps to see what blocks the laser best.

from my limited quick testing with a uv led, I found that a orange/burnt orange colour blocked the led's light best (was testing the celophane wrapping materials) but to block the led's light it took several layers of film to actually block the uv light so that a flouresing material did not flourese when the uv led was shined through the film at the object, so assuming you want a rigid window material, my suggestion is an inside acrylic, 10(many atleast) layers of the orange celophane, then another layer of acrylic, this has the advantage of being fairly easy to obtain anywhere and also able to be modified easily with differing strenghts of uv block(more or less layers of celophane) also the multi layer celophane does not have a huge effect on visibility and most of the effect is from the surfaces of the celophane