HK Turnigy Fabrikator - Upper layers not solid

Hi there,
i got my first printer a few days ago.
Had to fiddle around some time to get it working, but now it starts to print.

My problem however is, that from about 3mm above the bed on, the print is no longer solid. There are no solid walls or ceilings. It just is some sort of wireframe.
Here i have linked a picture of 2 printed objects.

http://ablage.gromotka.eu/IMAG0124.jpg

The Object itself was downloaded from Thingiverse.

I am using Cura 12.12 and 1.76mm PLA.
The printer has a 0.4mm Nozzle.

My settings are (in the order of display in cure):
Layer-thickness:0.1mm
Outer shell width: 1.2mm
Retract: yes

Filling top/bottom: 1.2mm
Filling: 40%

Speed: 50 mm/s
Print-temp: 190C
Bed-Temp: 70C

Support: none
Platform adhesion: none

Diameter of material: 1.76
Feeding (?): 100%

I will start trying to find the cause on my own, but maybe someone here could give me a hint on what causes my problem.

Greetings!

hey! join the club with the turnigy printer. i got one too! i had a lot of problems with cura, i had to switch to repetier host and slic3r. but with cura, check your retraction, it shiuld be about 4mm, next fiddle with flow rate, then temp "i use pla at 210deg", then play with flow rate and filiment size. is it really 1.76? that could be the problem, try 1.74

Hello!
Thank you for your reply!

I got it working by just trying around.
The Problem was related to insufficient filament flow. When i increased the Extruder-Temperature, the print got much better!

I am now printing PLA with 220°C . It is quite high, but works very well.
I dod not change Filament flow.

For me, the printer works very well. I am quite impressed by now.
Hopefully you can figure out your problems, too :-)

PS: I will try, if chooying another filament size makes it even better. 1.76 was, indeed, the measured size, but just because i am curious, i will give it a try!

just as a hint, i liked the origonal firmware a lot better. i upgraded it and then it printed the 1layer 1mm too high on cura and couldnt fix it. . had to switch to repetier host and slic3r and am having a really hard time. i can perfect a print but it takes soooo much tweaking, its almost not worth it. wish i could get cura to work again. that and there is no one else with these things, they are so new.

Do you still have the original firmware? I could sure use a copy of it!

No, i had to reflash the firmware.
I did not change it because of printing problems, but because something in the menu did not work.

So i am currently running the one thats also on the HK-Website together with Cura 14.12

The printer is compatible with the current version of Marlin 1.0.2. I have updated mine without any problems. Just copy the settings in the configuration.h file. This attachment has the settings copied already. Attachment 6116

Thank you joop.
I may try it, too.

I have discovered another "problem" and was wandering, if that behavior is correct.

My method was printing a gcode file with just one line of code and then measuring the voltage on D8 and D9 first with the devices disconnected, then with the devices connected.
When the printer starts, both are at 0V.
Every measurement was done directly after switching on the printer.

Unconnected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 12V | D9 = 9V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V

Connected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 2.7V | D9 = 0V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V


Summary:
M190, instead of heating the bed, does nothing, but the Fan-Speed controls the heating of the bed.

Is it supposed to work that way or is there something seriously broken?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PhilippG

Thank you joop.
I may try it, too.

I have discovered another "problem" and was wandering, if that behavior is correct.

My method was printing a gcode file with just one line of code and then measuring the voltage on D8 and D9 first with the devices disconnected, then with the devices connected.
When the printer starts, both are at 0V.
Every measurement was done directly after switching on the printer.

Unconnected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 12V | D9 = 9V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V

Connected:
M106 S255 (Fan fully on) -> D8 = 2.7V | D9 = 0V
M190 S110.00000 -> D8 = 0V | D9 = 0V


Summary:
M190, instead of heating the bed, does nothing, but the Fan-Speed controls the heating of the bed.

Is it supposed to work that way or is there something seriously broken?

---

I think you have your hot bed and fan connected backwards. D9 is connected to the fans. D8 to the hotbed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joop1987

I think you have your hot bed and fan connected backwards. D9 is connected to the fans. D8 to the hotbed.

---

I have connected them the way you described it.

I even disconnected the cables and connected them to another 12V supply to see, if the labels were correct and if there might be a shortcut anywhere.

The mechanical connection is right.

I even flashed the firmware you uploaded to the printer, but still the same issue.

UPDATE:
I completely disassembled the Control board to get to the Arduino Mega.

Digital Pins 8 and 9 seem to be shorted.
I tried with a custom sketch:
Both Pins Low: 0V
Both High: 5V
One Low, the other High: 2.5V

The measured resistance between D8 and D9 with the Arduino off is < 1Ohm.

I thing my Board is broken.... replacement is on it`s way...

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I pried of the pinheader for D8 and D9 on the Arduino and discovered, that the metal-contact of D8 inside the pinheader had one half of the contact in D8 and one in D9, so it bridged the two pins.

A faulty pinheader caused all of this.
I desoldered the header and added a new one. Now my printer runs like a beast :-)

I have flashed the firmware joop posted. I seems to work better than the original one!

Thank you to everyone, who tried to help :)

If anyone has any good settings for ABS, please post them. I'm still paying around to get the perfect print.

So, i have had a few days to play around with the settings.

I had to buy Buildtak Platform tape, otherwise the print would not stick.

Using NuNus ABS Filament, the following settings work for me:

Software: Cura 14.12

Settings 1
Settings 2

The Bed-Temperature might be too high, my prints are very hard to get off. I am trying with lower Bed-Temps right now.

Hello PhilippG i had some problems with my HK 3D Printer too. They seem to come from the RAMP board, not the arduino. I am waiting for a replacement board from HK .... Will share my feedback when all settings up and running again

Hope your board arrives soon :-)

I have run into some problems with ABS, too.
So my settings might be used with caution.

I will update the settings, if i find a solution to my current problem.

Link to my other Thread: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...0643#post60643

After 6 weeks of request and patience, i just heard from HK they have no news from their supplier just to replace the arduino+RAMP board. I am afraid we wont get any support from them with this product. I have to send it back in UK, 50€ shipping cost which is the price of pieces to replace but i dont want to loos guarantee. So i will ship it this week and expect either a replacement with one working or money back + cost for shipping back.
By the way is the printer still working and giving satisfaction ? I had a good start only for few hours so i cannot make a good opinion by myself.

The printer is OK. But you have to figure everything out yourself. No support anywhere. Treat it like a home made kit. If you have the original extruder, don't print higher than 240 or it will have a melt down. I burned out the 5V regulator on two Mega 2560 boards. So now I power the Mega 2560 externally through USB. I think the LCD draws too much current for the stock 5V regulator.

I finally got my printing decent using ABS. I'm had to change the extruder esteps/mm from 95 to 83.7. And I'm using Cura with 95 flow(%).

Don't bother dealing with Hobby King. Just get replacements from Banggood. Cheap and free shipping. I see your using Euro's so get it from the UK warehouse and not pay VAT.


http://eu.banggood.com/Wholesale-War...-Uk-88389.html

http://eu.banggood.com/Wholesale-War...-Uk-73020.html

Since milcent postet also in the other thread, we might want to shift our conversation to that thread and close the topic here.

Link: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...0643#post60643

[QUOTE=PhilippG;57671]Hi there,
i got my first printer a few days ago.
Had to fiddle around some time to get it working, but now it starts to print.

My problem however is, that from about 3mm above the bed on, the print is no longer solid. There are no solid walls or ceilings. It just is some sort of wireframe.
Here i have linked a picture of 2 printed objects.

http://ablage.gromotka.eu/IMAG0124.jpg

The Object itself was downloaded from Thingiverse.

I am using Cura 12.12 and 1.76mm PLA.
The printer has a 0.4mm Nozzle.

My settings are (in the order of display in cure):
Layer-thickness:0.1mm
Outer shell width: 1.2mm
Retract: yes

Filling top/bottom: 1.2mm
Filling: 40%

Speed: 50 mm/s
Print-temp: 190C
Bed-Temp: 70C

Support: none
Platform adhesion: none

Diameter of material: 1.76
Feeding (?): 100%

I will start trying to find the cause on my own, but maybe someone here could give me a hint on what causes my problem.

Greetings
dump the 15 version of cura and load the older version 14. there is a bug in the 15. i had the same problem and doing this fixed it

dump the 15 version of cura and load the older version 14. there is a bug in the 15. i had the same problem and doing this fixed it

Hi just got mine together today. I lit up and I went to move the extruder and the screen went all white.
What did I do and how to fix?
Can't find the troubleshooting section in HK "Files"

With the power off, connect the Mega 2650 to your computer USB. If it loads, it could be the 5V regulator on the Mega 2650.

Update on my Parameters:

Without changing my mechanical configuration, i am now able to print with 50mm/s solid, after i dialed down the Acceleration-Seting in the Printer to 500.
The starting-value was 3000.

500 is the lowest possible value and i am currently testing, how high i can set this.
But even with 500, it prints very fast with no loss of reliability.

If someone else got decent values, please post them.

I will make an update, if i have a final value.

I've read to keep acceleration high to keep corners sharp. How are your looking?

For abs i use
layer height 0.1
shell 0.8
bottom top 0.6
fill 20
speed 50
extruder temp 220
bed 110
1.75

i have to use stick glue
so far so good up to when i flashed new firmware now my heat bed is taking 25 min to heat up.
im going to try the firmware joop posted

Hello, i am back with Turnigy Fabrikator, received a brand new one in exchange. I set up it as the first and it is working fine, i did my first prints. Here are the first objects. Attachment 7022

Sometimes when i print an object i got from Thingiverse i have a problem of vertical alignment. For instance this one did not print correctly : Attachment 7021

I used the default STL file given on website, used Slic3r to convert in gcode, using default value with the correct one for our printer. Do you have any idea ? did someone already face this problem ?

By the way the printer is working quite well for now, i print PLA first using the updated firmware from HK. Will give a try to the firmware update from Joop1987. I tried Cura 14.12.1 and Slic3r 1.2.9

i played with Slic3r config and it seems i found a better configuration. Here is the result of the last printed object from Thnigiverse with this config. Attachment 7023 Attachment 7024
As you can seen compared to the previous one it is far better !! Attachment 7025

Let me know if you want the ini config file of Slic3r v1.2.9