Printable View
What is causing these lines?
This side was facing x axis
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...pscyq6kyjn.jpg
This side was facing y axis
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...pso2777fti.jpg
this side is fine
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psstvusem0.jpg
Is this a z axis inconsistency issue? Found another thread on another forum where the problem was with a loose coupler. Where are the couplers located? Idk what to check
slicer, speed of printing, temps. material, etc
Give us some kind of clue here :-)
Simplify 3D
2mm layer height, 205c, 60c bed temp, 2800mm/min speed
Doing it for another part now too that I'm printing at 1800mm/min
I haven't changed the files or settings at all and the parts use to come out fine. So it has to be a mechanical thing. Using the same x3g file I used a couple weeks ago.
I checked the screws on the carriage and the screws holding the bed to the platform and all are tight.
Sorry, and this is PLA
Was the good side facing the Z axis screw? If so I might bet it is a little dry. I had that happen on one of my printers that the Z screw was sticky and was causing the platform to shift slightly as it moved.
Yes the good side was facing the z axis threaded rod.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
That's my guess then. That would be the side that would move the least if the bed platform pivots on the Z rod.
Thanks. I used a microfiber cloth with alcohol and wiped down the rod. Then applied some singer sewing machine oil to it. Attempting another print.Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
Did you oil the Z screw rod? That is the one that gave me an issue. Hope that is all it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
Yes I did. Hmm. Doesn't look likes it's changed much.Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
could anything else be adding extra vibration ?
noisy cooling fan for example ?
Also clean ALL the rods. Not just the z-screw itself but the guide rods as well.
basically when I do a clean (one is due) I wipe down every guide rod and the screw.
You can actually hear the difference in the sound the printer makes afterwards.
Your settings look fine, what make is the pla ? And is this the same roll that worked fine before the problem started ?
Not that I know of. There is an extra cooling fan I have but It was there and on before this started giving me issues so I doubt its that.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
Yes I cleaned and oiled all the rods.
Speaking with the manufacturer hes telling me to check the bed screws and the screws holding the z motor. Checked all screws and all were tight, although I was able to tighten the zmotor screws a couple more turns.
Told him that and hes saying he thinks its still a loose screw somewhere. Idk what else to check.
The metal bracket holding the bed doesn't look bent to you does it? looks kind of slanted to me \ but barely. wonder if that has anything to do with it with unable to slide down the guide rods smoothly. I don't really feel anything though. Idk
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...pszi2p4f33.jpg
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psiyyvz0rt.jpg
Just in case if you haven't already - check out this for banding.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/
That is a very cool link! :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by wirlybird
Thanks yea I use that guide habitually.Quote:
Originally Posted by wirlybird
Is the part sitting square to the bed? In other words are the side walls of the part parallel to the sides of the bed? If so try rotating the part at an angle so your x & y are not absolute.
Yes it is. Trying a print now. So well see if it helps printing it at 45 degrees. Still would like to know what caused it though. My prints were never perfect, but this started happening and getting worse and worse. Has gotten a little, very little better since cleaning and oiling rods.Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd-67
Lets see how that works. I am spitballing but if you look into the sailfish firmware manual (way learning this myself) the acceleration deceleration is more than likely the culprit. The head doesn't know how far it needs to decell to print the next layer.
Again full of speculation but the lubrication reccomended might be a clue to extra resistance
Tilting the model makes the x & y work together rather than one or the other. Might.... may.... give you insite into what is going on.
That being said it maybe belt tension. These printers are not great at addressing that.
My FFCX loses/gains a bit on rounds and diagonals. Still looking into why. Follow the saga here
You might put the file out here so we can try it.
File is attachedQuote:
Originally Posted by wirlybird
I'll give it a go later today and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
Getting ready to start printing to see what happens. It says about 2 hours.
So far you can see that the postg hole are poor. It is like it is trying to print in air. The first layer is ok but then these do not print correctly. I did see the file has issues but I am going to let it run as is to see what happens. Then I will run fixes on it a nd see how it goes.
The pic is rotated and for the life of me I can not get it to post correctly.
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pspgt5orxk.jpg[/IMG]
It printed ok. I think there are some problems and running through a fixer could help. This was printed with basic default settings and fairly fast at 3600mm/min and the filament is generic PLA nothing special.
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psmxpce3z0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pspufj2sm7.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...pseidaglwr.jpg[/IMG]
Thank you, Idk how but I must have unsubscribed myself from my thread somehow, stopped getting notifications. I appreciate you doing this, thank you!
Yea, Flashforge sent me a new z motor and threaded rod. I installed it and still have the issues, so its not the z motor or rod.
I actually just picked up another printer and the prints are coming out great, so definitely a problem with this particular printer. Here you can see photos of the lid with its oozesheild for both my problem printer and my new one.
Problem Printer:
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psvzexqur8.jpg
New Printer:
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psmwxmaojt.jpg
Now a little more than a week later and the new printer prints are starting to look like this... Since it has no gradually happened to 2 printers, I'm wondering if since the parts are thin walled/smart parts, if the rapid movements are loosening something or making it skip over time? Yo can still see the lines from when the printer was brand new a week ago, they just weren't as protruding and noticeable.
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psimenvsgs.jpg
Can't see pics right now, security locks them out but I can look later to see what you mean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sreisig1
Its coming out better now. I replaced the stepper motor on the left extruder and its looking nicer now, hmm...
I'm printing the top on my newest printer now and the lid on the one weve been talking about. But it seems like one of them is askew. Is this because 1 computer is more calibrated than the other? How would I go about making sure parts match across printers? They match, just a smidge off. Didn't have this issue with my other two printers and using parts from both.
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...psygreutm2.jpg
It seems that objects printed on my newest brand new printer are not printed square
it's plastic - bend it a bit :-)
Or if you really care - print it on the same machine.
No idea how you'd fix that.
Are you actually making an nes ?
Fixed it. Had to realign the x axis.
Yes I make raspberry pi cases for retropies