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I am trialling something similar, have 6 mm glass cut longer than the bed, my bed is 6mm aluminium will tap 2@3mm for socket head screws each end and then screw some 3mm aluminium angle to ends this will allow glass to be clipped out of the build area. Holes in angle will be elongated to allow for height adjustment but when positioned set and forget.
That's the plan anyway
What did you clamp your glassplate with? (Same question for everyone else that has a glass bed)Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern
I found a glassplate that's normally used as a cover for big lamps they use when building houses and stuff like that (no idea what you call those lamps in English..) and it's approx. the same size as my buildplate. So it's ready for testing, just need to clamp it.
I've seen some printed clamps, but I'm afraid that those will let loose over time due to the heat of the buildplate.
I used blue painters tape.
Just around the corners? Does that feel secure enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern
yes, on the sides and on the front. Around 5 mm inn the build plate.
Haven' tested so much, but it sticks for now :-P
I do that, recently. I have 2 1/8" glass beds, which I use for ABS and PLA. I level when I switch between them, and once a week otherwise, but I remove the plates often to wash them, re-apply my glue | hairspray, and find the level to be good on re-installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DPBuser
The ABS plate goes in the freezer more often than not. For some reason, now that the weather is cooling off, my ABS-and-purple-glue prints stick like maniacs.
Cheers,
John
I had a hard time leveling my plate last night, it seemed like I could get both rear sides levelled, and when I moved to the center-rear it was too close to the plate. Then when adjusting both down again, it was too far from the plate on both rear sides.
Heres one cheap glass bed: http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6290292526.html
Not exactly the same size, but should work?
I've ordred one to try :)
For the glass bed, look at McMaster Carr for the parts. Here's the links:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3646/=ubs8gj
Look at part number: 8476K74 which is 9" x 6" 3/16 Borosilicate glass and it's $19.02 per sheet.
Get two of them (one for ABS, one for PLA)
Heat-Resistant Borosilicate Glass
- Color: Clear
- Maximum Temperature: 445° F, except tempered pressure-rated discs are 500° F
- Machine: Use glass-cutting tools
- Annealed, unless noted
Also known as Pyrex and Schott glass, this glass resists clouding and pitting and is highly chemical and heat resistant. With a low rate of thermal expansion, it also stays dimensionally stable during changes in temperature. Meets MIL-G-47033.
1/8" to 1/4" thick sheets have cut edges. 3/8" to 3/4" thick sheets have groundedges. Width and length tolerances are ±0.062". Thickness tolerance is±0.008" for 1/8" to 1/4" thick sheets, ±0.011" for 3/8" thick sheets, and ±0.019"for 5/8" and 3/4" thick sheets.
Now go get the following from Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:278540/#files which are the clips
Then get the Z-axis stops and adjust so your heads don't slam into the glass.
For adjusting the Z-limit switch, it's easier to add a clip (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43783) than to replace the whole back plate.
I've been trying a few things for a bed lately.
An ABS bed sticks like "fox crap to a dogs head" (< someone else's quote not mine)
So much so that if the footprint of the model is bigger than about Marvin's feet you cannot get the bugger off.
I think I have finally settled on a bathroom tile. I am sure it is every bit as good as glass for surface finish, it is glazed after all. I am not sure how it would transfer the heat from the heated bed as I don't use a heated bed. Being a tile it can be drilled and screwed on if you like but I just sit it there, it is heavy enough not to move once I printed the corner pieces and I can lift it out to remove prints.
Attachment 3202
Comes in a lovely choice of colours for your pleasure. :)