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Hi there,
I work for a non-profit, Next Generation Youth Development, and we have 2 Makerbot printers. Recently, our Replicator 2x has been giving us grief. Each time we try to print something it begins to peel up on the corners even though we've leveled and re-leveled the plate AND we had Makerbot send us a new plate thinking that the plate may be warped, yet we are still having issues. Does anyone have any advice on how to prevent prints from peeling?
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Questions:
You say "recently" your 2X has been giving you grief. Did it used to work fine and now it doesn't?
If that is the case, then ask the question "What has changed?"
If these are new and you are just getting started, then the problem is approached differently.
More questions:
It looks like you are printing directly on bare glass. Is that so?
What are you building with?
What temperature is the bed set to?
I have two suggestions
1. Make the starting Z height slightly closer to the nozzle, this will push the first layer onto the build plate to ensure it sticks
2. Go to CVS or any other store and purchase a water soluble glue stick. Before starting a print, rub the glue stick on the plate where the part will be and it should stick no problem. Simply wash it off with a rag afterwards.
We've always had some issues with the 2x from extruders to build plates. I can't remember the last time it was working properly. We are using kapton tape on our build plate, using ABS, and heating the build plate to 110.
Okay good, that information is important.Quote:
Originally Posted by amandanxtg
When building with ABS, you normally need to coat your glass (or Kapton or PE tape) with ABS juice. ABS juice is simply acetone that has some ABS dissolved in it. The ratio isn't critical, a typical recipe is about 10-20 75mm long pieces of filament tossed into about a cup of acetone. You let the ABS dissolve into the acetone, then brush it onto your glass or tape. An old pickle jar is an ideal container for your ABS juice. This makes a HUGE difference in how well your bottom layer sticks.
We typically don't have to heat the plate quite that much, we normally run about 85°C.
Obviously you also want to make sure your plate is as level as reasonably possible, and your z height home is set properly using the piece of paper under the extruder method. One other thing to remember is that when you set your Z home, you need to have the nozzle at operating temperature so there isn't any hard plastic sticking down to mess up your measurement.
I print a lot of big flat floored prints and fought the curling issue too.
Once I started adding helper disks, the problem went away.
http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2013/04...-helper-discs/
Now, the latest MakerWare no longer has the helper disks as an option. However, there are lots floating around Thingivers.
I add mine to my Solidworks models before exporting them.
110C is just too much, you may end up having more trouble than it is.
Try Elmer's glue, the dissapearing purple. It has to be dissapearing purple on it.Glue stick such from Pritt just failed miserably!
Or you can use 3D lac which is a spray designed for 3D printing, it works very well.