How do I make print in place machines work?

Sorry if this is a double post. I posted it earlier this morning, or thought I did, but now I don't see it. So, what's the deal with the print in place machines. When I first got my printer one of the first things I wanted to do was the adjustable wrench that blew our minds in the online video about 20 years ago. I found the model online and started. I don't even know how many times I tried. I followed all the advice I could find for printing it - scaled it up - printed with ABS - etc, over and over. In the end, I almost got it. I got down to one support that I could not remove no matter what I did and finally gave up. The other day I came across this model. It's supposed to be a benchmark for print in place moveable models.I've tried 3 prints - getting progressively larger and with cooler nozzle temps to try to get it to work. They are frozen in place - break before they move.I'm using a Tronxy XY and Repetier (Slice3r) slicer. I used 0,2 layer height which is what the creater suggested with no supports. The last one is 1.5 scale with nozzle temp of 210, which is low for me. Has anyone had any success with any of these or is there another model that is better? Do I just have a crappy machine or is something wrong with the model or is it my settings? Everything is default except for the layer height. I don't have any problem printing articulated models. I've done a butterfly, dragonfly, dog and shark that break loose and move fairly easily.

if there is supposed to be clearance and your print has none and you are using default settings rather than properly calibrating extrusion multiplier, I would assume your are over extruding. Try reducing your extrusion multiplier by .1 or .2 and see what happens.

Thanks for the response. It worked!! Took me forever to find the setting, but I did. It was under filament settings where I set the nozzle temp.
I figured it would be an easy fix - I don't know enough to have complicated problems. LOL
Thanks
Donna

OK I have another question. In order to head off future problems - what is the down side of this number being lower. Can I use this setting on all of my prints. What should I watch for as a reason to bump it back up? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by frierson22

OK I have another question. In order to head off future problems - what is the down side of this number being lower. Can I use this setting on all of my prints. What should I watch for as a reason to bump it back up? Thanks.

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This is a number your number and my number will be different. This is the setting within the slicer that determines how much plastic comes out. Too much and your have issues like you just experience. Not enough and you have gaps and weak parts. The actual thickness of the filament also comes into play. Very few manufacture actually achieve 1.75mm round filament.. there should be a setting to enter the real thickness as measured with a digital caliper along several meters of filament.
The way I like to calibrate extrusion multiplier is by printing a small square that consists of 2 layers. Once printed there should be no visible gaps between string using a high powered magnifier or USB microscope. I then print a 2 walled square that is designed to have each wall the same size as the extrusion width. So for instance if the nozzle I am using is .35mm and the extrusion width I am using is .4mm the wall of my model is .8mm this will require 2 passses to make the square. Once finished that wall should measure .82mm, at least on my machine.
I wish this was a simple as printing a text doc on a ink jet printer but there is a bit of science and a bit of art involved..
To answer your question, use your defaults if that has been working good for you when there are no critical clearances needed and your current setting for things that need to be just the right size.

Great information. Thanks

Another way of getting print in place to work well.
is slicer dependant.
both flashprint and simplify3d allow you to adjust the gaps between internal 'walls' - parts.

The beauty of this method is that nothing else changes. So you don't have to fiddle with extrusion percentages or temps etc.

In simplify3d it's at the bottom of the 'Other' page.
Called horizontal size adjustment

In flashprint it's also in the Other section.
Under Dimensional adjustments.
That's actual better than s3d as it included seperate internal and external adjustments.
It's also where flashprint hides the z-axis adjustment. - and I did not realise until just now :-)

Thanks. I'll check that out.