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Got a new printer Ender 3 but the table is a bit bend in the middle as when I move the nozzle across there is a bigger gap. + the nozzle keeps getting block but that may be because its too close to the bed sometimes. Any suggestions? Got the version with the removable mat.
Give us an example of how large the gap difference is.
Myself I spit the difference as to make an average bottom layer thickness that I can live with.
And print dual top/bottom and wall thicknesses.
I have also tweaked my 3mm Aluminum Bed.
This made the bed flatter allowing my smaller offset to be within a decent working area.
I had been 3D Printing over 2 years with PLA and only noticed the bed warping after Printing ABS.
I Mapped the bed Height, removed it from my 3D Printer and Adjusted it to a livable level.
Did you guys know that borosilicate glass will never warp or bend no matter how hard the print head crashes into it or what kind of temps or thermal cycles it sees. It can only break or be perfectly straight. It makes the bed heavier but man does it stay flat. I got a 450x250mm piece of it for my Tevo Black Widow. I am now putting a build surface on top of that so I can print with PETG(For PLA I just print on the clean bare glass wiped with distilled white vinager as the glass warms for the print). My bed is thick and heavy but oh so right. And always true. Here is a link to a piece of glass for your ender 3: https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/produ...xoCPlIQAvD_BwE
Its hard to tell how much is it. for me the difference is simply too small to be really precisely measured.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif
Don't see it reliable enough to set it up as I'm ending up with strings of plastic or blocked nozzle.
Thinking to go ahead with a glass bed
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Creality-...w35pcwJA~#rwid
Not really looking forward to it. I got that printer to make my projects not to make a project out of that printer it self. Took me hours to assemble it and I still cant get any print out of it. I was kind of more happy with my Monoprice Mini I3. Never had any problems with it. Even that it had as well slightly warp bed in the middle but I could still make it to print nice.
Are there any issues with glass bed?
Does it without a problem transfer heat?
I stick it directly on the aluminium bed without the mat right?
I agree, though It is not just the Glass we would have to purchase.Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoWiz
As I have a proximity sensor that will only detect Ferrous material I would have to purchase another Proximity sensor.
An at this date have not found one that is a similar size sensor the will work in my space requirements and proximity to the nozzle..
It is not hard to convert to a BLTouch. And there are cheap knockoffs for it that are cheap. And for those without an imagination there are even files already on thingivers to freely download and print out an exact fitting mount. Right here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148733 . If you need help with wiring or changing settings I would be more than happy to help.
I just ordered that glass plate as in the link and after I will menage to sort out my problem with levelling I'm planing to use TPU. Will I need some extra adhesion? Not sure if it may damage the glass plate
Gecko Tek makes a cold build surface that is good for flexible materials. It is also cheap and incredibly easy to peel back up when it is time to change or replace. Their website is here: https://www.geckotek.co/
For my Black Widow I designed a simple corner mount that I was able to print 4 of and use to precisely locate the glass without using clips that stick up higher than the build surface and take away from build volume. My design is specific to my BW but it is a simple design and perhaps you might be able to draw up something similar for your ender 3? Or maybe search and find on thingiverse or yeggi.. https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...toWiz/95_6.jpg
Any other brands you can recommend? unfortunately I live in UK and Geckotec don't seem to operate in Europe.
Yes I love that idea with those corners. Will look first if can get some online.
Oh no. Well I am sorry for the bad advice. I wish I had a more comprehensive amount of experience with different build surfaces but once I got away from the painters tape Gecko Tek is the first I tried and they have worked so well for me I haven't got much real world experience with others to be speaking about. However, you might find some help in the Ultimate Materials Guide from Simplify3d. Right here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/m...uide/flexible/
think gone go with the tape then.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Tape...OXADCl8QZQXNYw
Thank you for your help
Finally got my new glass plate delivered so menage to level up the bed to a workable condition.But Still experiencing the problem with the blocked nozzle and a bit inconsistent layers.So I tried to increase nozzle temperature to 210 C and bed to 70C. I did help with the layer inconsistency but still after few layers I'm ending up with a blocked nozzle.Any Ideas where may be the problem? xD I'm using PLA and have upgraded the PTFE tubes with fittings.
Well i think 70c is a bit high for the bed for PLA. I like 50 or 60 with the glass. But that is not your problem. The cheap azz extruder in your ender3 uses a ptfe liner that is sadly sensitive to higher temps and can be deformed and cause these problems. If it were me, I might be trying to entertain some kind of all metal hotend conversion. Maybe something genuinely from E3D. Just so you know you don't have to worry past the installation.
Any particular model on your mind?
Micro Swiss makes some nice stuff. Not the cheapest but superb quality. They make a drop in all metal hotend with a titanium heatbreak and a plated wear resistant nozzle. This is drop in replacement in a high quality right here: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-...a-568313010230
Is there any other way around it? I can't believe have they can even charge money for such a shit printer. Shame that I can't go back in time and buy a proper printer instead of this fake one. Don't know if after gone have other problems involving spending money agin
Wanted to say that I have the Same Hot-end as that on the Ender 3.
I have been 3D Printing PLA and ABS for 3 Years now.
And I will tell you that it is not the Ender 3's Hot-End that is the problem.
Here is a photo of an MPCNC that I 3D Printed in ABS with my Hictop 3DP11/12.
Attachment 13670
And here are my Hictop 3D Printers
Attachment 13671
3D Printer before Modifications can be seen here
Is it a fake printer then?
FYI in the picture posted I see MK8 extruders. These are not what is on the ender 3. Not even the same type. MK8 in your pictures are direct drive and the ender3 has a Bowden setup. Just saying. I know my extruders well. I have changed so many right here on this forum. So many. apples and oranges. This is why we should go join facebook groups for our specific machine.
Finally I got it working. It was a lust spring on the filament feeder.Was really starting to think if its a some sort of fake machine just like my last graphic card xDBut thank you all for help and advises. Still need to work on few bits but anyway, Ladies and gentlemen let me present you the "normal dog" xD
Quote:
Originally Posted by piotr1990
IS what Fake
My printer or ender in general as a company
I do not believe it is a Fake, Though some manufactures of 3D Printers make them not to a high standard.
There are many after market updates that can be done to make them a good working 3D Printer.
Though reviewing a product before purchasing is always the best policy, I review all sources now before purchasing anything.
As in the past have been stung with low quality products.
Recently purchased a media player for SlingTV even though the product reviews were great still got stung.
The Media player for SlingTV, will not run more that 3 hours with rebooting the SlingTV app and most of the time it crashes during a 30 minute sitcom.
This stupid Media Player has to many problems to list and locks up from what I believe is a poorly written buffer routine after only a few minutes of use.
Will not post the Media players name here though if someone were to requests I would Private Message them the Name.
Sorry I digress though this really makes me supper MAD!!!!!
As it was not a cheap dual TV tuner media player can record two OTA channels at once.