Print failing FAQ/Sticky

We seem to see the same issues brought up repeatedly in threads here, and I'd like to assemble a FAQ from our members. It would also serve as Google Bait for the board, as a generic, but comprehensive, FAQ about failing prints would attract more people to read it, and perhaps join.

I'd like input from everybody, especially since my knowledge is very limited in certain aspects. Please feel free to add any topics we should cover, and who'd be willing to write them up. These should be non-printer specific, lowest common denominator.

It would be released under a creative commons license, non-commercial, and probably not distributable (to keep other's from copying and hosting our work). All aspects are open for discussion.

General Design issues:

• Designing for Printing
• Rounding corners
• Orientation of material
• Brims (design time)
• Supports (design time)
• Orientation of print

Slicing

• Software overview (basic for most common types)
• Supports
• Brims/Rafts
• Settings

Material

• Types
• Environmental Considerations (humidity, fumes, etc)
• Tolerances
• Generic Temps

Printer

• General calibration concepts
• Adhesives
• Enclosures

Post print

• Smoothing/hardening
• removal from print bed
• Removal of supports/rafts

Feel free to add more and contribute!

You're assuming that new members would be bothered to read it ?
Sheer unadulterated optimism lol

So do you want mini articles or just cut and paste what we've already said in other parts of the forum ?

Non-adhesiveness linked to design.
Small dimensions tend to create adhesion issues : thin walls, small pillars are especially a concern. If the width of the contact surface on the plate is small (<2mm) or the total surface on the plate is <1cm² you can expect issues, especially if you are using high shrinkage material (ABS).

Sharp corners are not optimum in this regard. You can use Davo pads (small Mickey mouse circles around the corner) to fight this or just add a chamfer/rounding.

Non adhesiveness linked to improper bed preparation
A heated bed always helps even for PLA. The target temperature is roughly 10°C below glass transition temperature (50°C for PLA, 90°C for ABS).
Paper glue sticks can be used : smear it generously (I use UHU).

Non adhesiveness linked to heat management
Keep a fan on for extra cooling on PLA.
Keep your fans off for ABS and PET.
Enclose your printer when printing ABS (carboard is OK).

Non adhesiveness linked to filament & printer setup
Prints can warp / detach from the bed due to insufficient adhesion if your printer is affected by the following :
- incorrect Z offset that makes a 1st layer too high. Can be corrected using M212, M500 and M501.
- printbed not levelled correctly. See your manufacturer recommendation on the topic (or the most knowledgeable forum you can find).
- you can sometimes be faced with lack of adhesion if extrusion temp is too low.

Non adhesiveness linked to underextrusion
- filament with very variable diameter : can't be helped, throw it away.
- filament with consistent diameter but not at spec : to be corrected in the slicer.

I also really like this one :
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Davo

http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Trouble...ictorial_Guide

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article...shooting-guide

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/

https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printin...eir-solutions/

https://ultimaker.com/en/support/vis...shooting-guide

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I need a removal from print bed FAQ. My prints are stuck like they're mig welded to the print surface.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crabjoe

I need a removal from print bed FAQ. My prints are stuck like they're mig welded to the print surface.

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pretty straightforward.
Adjust your z-offset in the slicer, I usually add 0.1mm at a time untill I get the sweet spot where things stick but also come off easily.
You can also adjust the printbed temperature downwards until you hit th same point.
somewhere between the two settings you can usually adjust for any print surface.