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I'm looking for a large 3D printer that have build volume of at least 300X300X300.
1. Box-like frame
2. All metal direct-feed extruder
3. Enclosed
4. Can print ABS
I was looking at Creality Ender 5 Plus but it doesn't have all metal direct-feed extruder and isn't enclosed.
Any suggestions? I'm in USA and I prefer to buy 3D printer from Amazon. No more than $1000.
I'm looking at SainSmart Coreception CoreXY 3D Printer
looks like a decent machine
In fact looks a like my corexy - but larger and with direct drive extruder and a really stable looking z axis.
Pretty easy to enclose as well.
Go for it :-)
It took me about 2-1/2 hours to build the 3D printer and about half-hour to level the platform. I tried to print a sample file from Simplify3D but the printer crashes into the corner while homing and I have under-extrusion problem. The extruder has stepper motor turning a large gear that pushes filament out the nozzle. I don't know the gear ratio. How can I fix the problem?
I think that the X-limit switch is missing.
Please help me find wiring diagram for the printer. I need to find the wires going from X limit switch on the board to where the wires are supposed to go to. I think that the wires go through the cable to VGA plug. If you remove the cover from the X-Axis carriage, you'll see a terminal block, and you'll see the wires going to the hothead, stepper motor, fans, and temperature sensors.
Attachment 15107
yeah I had something similiar - try switching the x and y axis stepper motors plugs over.
I swear I got it right initilaly - but nothing homed until I swapped them over.
Sometimes the instructions tell lies ;-)
And don't forget to switch the endstop cables as well (I did - forgot, that is ;-)
If it's anything like mine it should home to the back left corner.
So one endswitch is on the extruder carriage and the other one is on the outside of the linear rail - took me a while to find that one :-)
Both shoukld have been pre-fitted.
what profile are you using for simplify3d ?
For the endstops you are homing to the Min '-' sockets.
they are on the right
https://i.imgur.com/duvCECL.jpg
I found the problem and fixed it. On the X-Axis gantry, there is a screw that is under the linear rail. I think that they put the screw in the wrong hole so that the switch doesn't hit the screw and the machine makes grinding noise. The screw should be in the hole closer to the edge of the gantry. After putting the screw in the correct hole, I can level the build platform.
If you want to actually print ABS parts that large, make sure you have a heated chamber, the warmer the better - as close to 100C as you can get.
I'm waiting for the enclosure from Amazon. I still can't find correct Simplify3D profile for the printer. I found out that a few companies sell the printer under their brand name. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image
it looks like the new sapphire.
But basically simplify3d treats it just the same as a normal cartesian printer.
hang on,
try that
unzip the attached file and point s3d at the 'fff' profile.
you'll need to change the print volume settings in the 'g-code' tab.
And maybe change the z axis setting in the 'scripts' ending script section.
I have it set to lower the printbed by 100mm after a print is finished to make it easier to remove a print.
There's no need to change it. If you print something tall and there isn't 100mm left - it will only go to the maximum 'height'.
it should also home the print carriage.
But I've got so many bloody proifiles saved (simplify3d 4.1 crashes if you try and update a profile, but will let me save a new one) I've lost track of which one homes and which one doesn't :-)
Also as the profiles are saved in the computer registry - and not as an actual file unless you export it - deleting profiles you don't want them is bloody difficult.
But as long as you change the print area size - keep all origins at 0 - that should work fine. :-)
There's nothing special about the profile. Thankfully the motherboard and firmware does all the complicated stuff. As far as simplify 3d is concerned it's just a bog standard cartesin printer. S3d has no idea what a corexy is or how it works - and it doesn't need to know :-)
I actually used my i3 profile as the base.
PETG won't stick to glass build platform. I tried painter's tape and PETG won't stick to it. Will PETG stick to glue stick applied to glass build platform? Do I have to buy different kind of build platform? Is the extruder OK or do I have to buy better one?
extruder should be fine.
It's a dual gear bmg isn't it ?
Plenty good grip and push.
Pet-g - I've only ever used Printbite. Where it sticks great.
what settings are you using for pet-g ?
It should stick to painters tape as that is more a mechanical hold than a chemical one.
My biggest issue with tape is getting off the bottom of the print. never had any issues with anything sticking to it.
Pet-g needs to be printed slowly and hot - bed temp 85-100c hotend 235-255 and max printing speed 40mm/s with 10% speed for the first layer.
Also cooling fans off for first 2 layers and 50% for rest.
Though if it's anything like mine - there's nothing I can do with the fans as they stand.
The fans are dual purpose and cool the heatbreak and print area - so on all the time.
Same as my rep-clones - and never caused me any issues.
But in ideal pet-g printing conditions you don't use much cooling.
Also a little extra 'smush' doesn't hurt.
Offset the global offsets for the z axis (bottom left of g-code settings page) by -0.1
If print looks fine and doesn't stick, increase that in increments of 0.1 until it either sticks or the first layer gets wavy and looks like crap - at whicbh point you're too close :-)
A lot depends how finely you calibrated it in the first place.
I tend to calibrate pretty close to the bed as it's really easy to adjust z-offset from the g-code page.
Once I get a new spool mount made I'll try some pet-git on my magigoo.
basically I buggered up the stock print surface so am now using magigoo on the bare aluminium.
It's probably the best print surface material I've ever used - but not as plug and play/one time only buy as the Printbite.
But you can't put a first layer down at 100mm/s on printbite, and I have on the magigoo :-)
https://magigoo.myshopify.com/collec...ive-single-pen
It's not cheap but a really thin layer is all you need and a little goes a really long way.
Raising the temperatures worked BUT there is some warping on a test "box". I should be getting the enclosure and some glue sticks tomorrow. I'll use a Bowden tube as filament guide from the spool to the extruder much like those on Flashforge 3D printers.
Filament guife tube is not necessary, plus adds extra and unnecessary friction.
I made a pretty simple but effective spool holder last night.
As soon as I've got it fitted and checked it does actually work I'll post it.
Basically it mounts the spool on the front left hand corner but 150mm in the air and at a 45 degree angle to the bed. So the filement should pull off smoothly no matter where the printhead is.
Takes a couple hours to print (well the way I print it does - maybe double that for most people lol), no supports and attaches either with two strut nuts or cable ties.
As I can't find all the strut nuts I made last year out of the diamond fust filament - I;ll probably just use cable ties :-)
But the less friction between the spool and the extruder the better - particulatly for flexible filaments which have a tendency to stretch and constrict during retractions.
Probably be this evening, gonna have lunch, go shopping, walk dogs ertc - back in workshop this evening.
I printed mine with some godawful flourescent yellow filament from polymaker. It was supposed to be a premium filament - but it's terrible stuff - won't work in my delta at all.
But all my other part spools with enough filament (68gms) would not fit on the bog standard holder.
So it was what i had.
Gonna needs some sanding and filing. But should do the job well.
Plus need to make a back plate - that won't take long. Maybe another 5 gms.
Although I might just use the 300gsm card I use in the laser cutter.
Here's the thing in situ:
Attachment 15148
works well - currently printing a 185mm back plate.
I have noticed a small potential issue.
If you had a really full spool, like the BQ filament I like - which is wound right to the edge of the spool. On a long travel back towards the spool there is a risk that the filament can come off the reel and get caught around the shaft that holds the spool.
This is something the replicator clones are notorious for. And one of the main issues I had when I first started printing.
As the spool is on an angled holder so that it can't come off, I can make an extension to the main shaft that should prevent the filament escaping the reel.
Currently printing a 185mm back plate, this goes down the shaft and prevent spools with holes or sutouts from catching on the top of the main shaft.
I'll take some pics without filament when the plate has finished.
But looks like this will do the job without my having to build something huge :-)
A side observation on the corexy system.
when the print head goes left - both belts go right. when it goes right, both belts go left. When it travels in a doagonal only one belt moves. When it goed forwards or backwards both belts move in opposite directions.
It's fascinating to watch - almost as hypnotiic as watching a delta print at speed.
How on earth did someone work this out ?
I'm now going to have to find out who invented the system.
so now you know :-)Quote:
Around 2013, a new motion system was developed by an MIT engineer. It became known as the CoreXY.
oh yeah - if you're using that profile - check on the scripts tab that the homeing line in the ending script reads:
G28 X Y
NOT:
G28 XY
As that will home all three axis - which you don't really want.
I got the enclosure today and I wished that I build an enclosure but my parents and I are stuck at home without a car due to the virus that may kill us all. A tip: put the printer inside the enclosure before building the plastic frame. The short tubes are for front and back, longer tubes are for sides, and longest tubes are vertical. Since the enclosure is for any printers, there are no holes for power cord and USB cable. The spool won't fit inside the enclosure.
is it really worth the hassle ?
I think that it's not worth the hassle. The glue stick doesn't work on PETG. I ordered a Gizmo Dorks PEI sheet and it should come tomorrow.
I got the PEI sheet and after some tests, setting the bed temperature at 80 and extruder temperature at 240 works but the top and bottom of a test box isn't good. I'll try setting solid top and bottom layers at 4.
80 is too hot for pla - the bottom layers will deform as they'll be too soft to support the weight of the rest of the model - also won't harden properly.
And yeah 240 is realistically too hot for pla.
It's usually better to slow the first layer down and add a little bit of 'smush' -z-axis to the print instead.
You also want to make sure that the print area cooling fans the off for the first layer and sometimes the first two layers.
After 6 years of constant experimentation - I have found 65c is the perfect temp for pla - on almost any build surface.
While I was printing some model car parts, the printer turned off by itself. I tried to turn it on several times but nothing happened. I checked the fuse using a test light and it was good. I took the bottom cover off and found out that one of the green terminals on the relay board (?) was burned out. I tested with a voltmeter and found out that the relay board (?) was not getting power. I temporarily disconnected the wires from the green terminals and connected them using butt connectors. I turned the printer on and I thought that it worked but when I started printing a job, the printer went crazy. How can I get the new part? I think that this forum won't accept images anymore.
images shouldn't be a problem.
try and keep the sizr dow - but if you've posted them before - no reason you shouldn't still be able to post them.
To start with contact tronxy and ask for a new board.
hopefully they'll send you one.
And you're probably better off leaving the baseplate off and just making sure none of the cables are dragging on the ground.
It'll keep everything a lot cooler - as you've got it in a box (assuming you still have it in a box) that might be an issue.
I would NOT tell tronxy that you've enclosed it.
If it doesn't come with an enclosure then I suspect that would probably invalidate the warranty.
My pei sheet sticks pla at anything from 50-65.
And that's running the first layer at 40mm/s with some really intricate parts.
The printer works without the relay board. I contacted support at Sainsmart about the relay board. I'm looking for plastic sheets that fit in the V-Slots.
Attachment 15263
oh yeah sainsmart - my bad.
It's not a tronxy it's a sapphire plus :-)
I'd been looking at tronxys and had them on the brain :-)
weird - what's that board supposed to do ?
Check #17 on the trouble-shooting section at https://docs.sainsmart.com/article/i...ouble-shooting
A few days ago, I e-mailed SainSmart about the bad relay board. They e-mailed me asking for my address so that they can send me new relay board. Bad news: The new board is different from the old one and will require re-wiring.
Attachment 15270
so it's a power loss thingy.
Actually that troubleshooting guide is brilliant !
Particularly as it applies to my machine as well (well it's the same board anyway).
Cheers for that :-)
It took me around 2 hours to assemble the 3D printer and about a half-hour to level the stage. I attempted to print an example record from Simplify3D however the printer collides with the corner while homing and I have under-expulsion issue. The extruder has a stepper engine turning a huge apparatus that pushes fibre out the spout. I don't have the foggiest idea about the apparatus proportion. How might I fix the issue? megasync for pc
Check the screw under the X-Axis gantry. The screw should be in the hole near the edge of the gantry so that it trips the limit switch hidden in the carriage. Which material did you use? Try higher extruder and/or head bed temperature.
for simplify 3d you need to set the origin at x=0 and y=0
Attachment 15273
The new relay board came today but it's the same board as the old one. They sent me some wires and a new switch for the front panel. I'm not sure if I should replace the parts now or wait.
well it will be the same part. just hopefully not faulty :-)
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hmm, so webbot or just someone who can't read ?
I need new build plate and nozzles for my Sainsmart Coreception. The glass build plate's coating is damaged and I don't know what size of nozzles I need. Any suggestions?